rcarlisle Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 Well, the oval is a door key.... I don't know why the PO would hand you one that doesn't work. With the advent of the Aeronose trucks Ford did away with the opposite keyway for the doors and had a single key that fits everything. I changed over to that system when my ignition lock wore out. They gave me that key a few weeks after I got the truck when I was getting the title transferred. I was excited when they found it but it didn't work with anything. I am not sure where she found that key or what it was for. I think I may need a new ignition lock soon. I don't like the way the key turns. It feels so mushy and strange. Not a solid auto return after starting too. The "auto return" you mention isn't necessarily the key cylinder. Mine doesn't alway return to the "run" position. SOmetimes I have to turn it back. Usually pretty easy to tell - the BRAKE light stays on and nothing else works in the truck. I think that goes to the actual switch and there is an article on here about how to fix/adjust on that. I got a new cylinder because felt like the key was going to fall out. But still needs the other adjustment as well. I haven't tried the old keys in the hood lock, but next owner of my truck will get all the keys I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 Well, the oval is a door key.... I don't know why the PO would hand you one that doesn't work. With the advent of the Aeronose trucks Ford did away with the opposite keyway for the doors and had a single key that fits everything. I changed over to that system when my ignition lock wore out. They gave me that key a few weeks after I got the truck when I was getting the title transferred. I was excited when they found it but it didn't work with anything. I am not sure where she found that key or what it was for. I think I may need a new ignition lock soon. I don't like the way the key turns. It feels so mushy and strange. Not a solid auto return after starting too. Do you have tilt wheel? That sounds more like an actuator rod, or the ignition switch spring than the key cylinder. My cylinder was worn out to where the key would fall out while driving. Not that it would stop running, just bloop... and my keys were on the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 Do you have tilt wheel? That sounds more like an actuator rod, or the ignition switch spring than the key cylinder. My cylinder was worn out to where the key would fall out while driving. Not that it would stop running, just bloop... and my keys were on the floor. Yep, I agree - switch and/or linkage problem. The switch writeup is at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. But you may want to use some electrical contact cleaner on it to loosen the switch up. The grease they put in originally tends to be pretty hard by now. And check out the link going down to the switch. It is supposed to clear the steering column but if it gets bent it can drag on the column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 The "auto return" you mention isn't necessarily the key cylinder. Mine doesn't alway return to the "run" position. SOmetimes I have to turn it back. Usually pretty easy to tell - the BRAKE light stays on and nothing else works in the truck. I think that goes to the actual switch and there is an article on here about how to fix/adjust on that. I got a new cylinder because felt like the key was going to fall out. But still needs the other adjustment as well. I haven't tried the old keys in the hood lock, but next owner of my truck will get all the keys I have. Thanks for the tip on how to tell it is not returned all the way. I will look out for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Yep, I agree - switch and/or linkage problem. The switch writeup is at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. But you may want to use some electrical contact cleaner on it to loosen the switch up. The grease they put in originally tends to be pretty hard by now. And check out the link going down to the switch. It is supposed to clear the steering column but if it gets bent it can drag on the column. Thanks, I reviewed the documents and will address it when I get to that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Do you have tilt wheel? That sounds more like an actuator rod, or the ignition switch spring than the key cylinder. My cylinder was worn out to where the key would fall out while driving. Not that it would stop running, just bloop... and my keys were on the floor. I don't have a tilt wheel. Your previous issue almost sounds comical if it wasn't so tragic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 Turns out there is a lock hidden behind a bunch of dirt. I was hoping the strange large key the previous owner gave me may work for the spare tire lock but it doesn't. How should I proceed? Looks like the hood release may take the same key. I got the spare tire lock back from the locksmith. It took him three days of making keys to find a pattern that worked. It didn't help that the cylinder was hard to turn. The best part about this whole thing is that the key he made works on my doors and hood lock also. I can finally lock my dang doors! He only charged me $50 dollars, I think that must be a neighbor discount. I have started the process of prepping for paint and replacing the rubber washer that cushions the lock when you close it around the locking stud. I also ordered a plug for the lock hole to keep dirt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 I am not sure if the lock was not used properly or it is not designed well but I was able to get the bolt off. I didn't bend and strip it. The bolt was like that. It was not easy to get off with the lock in the way but managed to spin it with a pry bar after removing the other side. Any sources for this bolt with the eye? I found one similar looking for a later model year but I don't know if the thread pattern is the same or length. I dropped the lock at my locksmith tonight to see if he can make me a key for it. They key I have fits inside but does not turn the lock. I am hoping that if he makes me a key it will match the hood release too. I put the hardware in the sonic cleaner and will see what I can do. Looks like I need a bigger sonic cleaner. Since I couldn't find the spare tire bolt new I did the best I could to straighten it back out. I tried to buy some nuts so I can pound on it without damaging the threads but Home Depot was sold out. I didn't feel like driving around more so I just started hitting it with a hammer and said I would worry about the threads later. I ended up smashing my finger once with a four pound hammer but I got it mostly straight. It is a little wavy but I was able to use the die to recut the threads so it would work. I painted it Ford Blue to indicate that it has to be removed when you go for the spare. I will make the lock blue also. I am not sure if it is the correct blue for my model year but I went with the brighter one so it would stand out more under the truck when you are trying to find it at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 Since I couldn't find the spare tire bolt new I did the best I could to straighten it back out. I tried to buy some nuts so I can pound on it without damaging the threads but Home Depot was sold out. I didn't feel like driving around more so I just started hitting it with a hammer and said I would worry about the threads later. I ended up smashing my finger once with a four pound hammer but I got it mostly straight. It is a little wavy but I was able to use the die to recut the threads so it would work. I painted it Ford Blue to indicate that it has to be removed when you go for the spare. I will make the lock blue also. I am not sure if it is the correct blue for my model year but I went with the brighter one so it would stand out more under the truck when you are trying to find it at night. Looks good! Well done! So now you have one key that fits the doors, ignition, and spare tire lock? Not bad at all for $50. And good job on straightening that bolt. But I'm surprised that the acetone didn't eat right through that plastic bin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted June 20, 2021 Author Share Posted June 20, 2021 I removed the brake booster and related parts. I put tape over the hole for now. Before I put the new brake booster in I wanted to clean the firewall. It is a good chance because later I won't have easy access. On thing turned to another and before I knew it I was painting it. I wanted a smoother surface to prevent leaks into the cab also. It didn't come out as good as I would like but it was really hard to paint and prep due to limited access. Turns out the new brake booster does not come with a gasket that will cover the hole in the firewall all the way so I will make a gasket that will cover the hole. Does anyone know where I can find a steering shaft firewall boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts