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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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When I removed the wire ties to get the brake booster vacuum line off I found out the metal line is not connected to anything. I think it is the choke heater tube after talking to Randy. It was not connected at either end. What is the best way to fix this? That is the exhaust manifold in the second picture. I don't know why after I upload the picture it rotates it.

I removed the brake lines and the master cylinder. It looks like the master cylinder may of been leaking. The whole back side was a mess.

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PXL_20210529_184201929.jpg.f27cdb3b8139ba40066ead7444965478.jpg

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When I removed the wire ties to get the brake booster vacuum line off I found out the metal line is not connected to anything. I think it is the choke heater tube after talking to Randy. It was not connected at either end. What is the best way to fix this? That is the exhaust manifold in the second picture. I don't know why after I upload the picture it rotates it.

Yes, that looks to be the hot air tube for the choke. The best way to repair it is to get the Dorman repair kit.

As for pictures, the forum doesn't rotate it. And that's the problem.

You are taking pictures with your camera rotated, and the camera puts orientation info in the picture's file. Most software reads that data a re-orients the pic so it looks right. But the forum software doesn't read the data nor orient the pic.

So, you basically have two choices. One is to orient your camera so down is down. On an iPhone I think that is with the volume buttons down, but I'm not sure of that nor do I know what it is for other phones. Second, you can use photo editing software to properly orient the pic. That's what I do. I take my pics in fairly high resolution and then edit them in Photoshop Express.

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I removed the brake lines and the master cylinder. It looks like the master cylinder may of been leaking. The whole back side was a mess.

I also removed the proportioning valve so I can flush the lines easier. I will clean it up before putting it back. The switch going to the top of the valve is strange. It has two contacts but they look bridged inside.

Looking for homemade bleeding tips without the tool. I don't want to ding it up with vise grips.

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Screenshot_20210529-170916.thumb.png.f6b307fde5859cce4f7cdd0f6a9194cb.png

 

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I also removed the proportioning valve so I can flush the lines easier. I will clean it up before putting it back. The switch going to the top of the valve is strange. It has two contacts but they look bridged inside.

Looking for homemade bleeding tips without the tool. I don't want to ding it up with vise grips.

I removed the brake booster and related parts. I put tape over the hole for now.

PXL_20210529_201508496.jpg.44320dc5c39e76bd58651d23073739d0.jpg

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PXL_20210529_202039918.jpg.813f0dc0cc238b470bf2309fd0f00fbf.jpg

PXL_20210529_202046172.jpg.2d015f8b0b34da19c46688d9aa6c98bd.jpg

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PXL_20210529_203644270.jpg.1b09a06a9e14480ff5385440c29e25d2.jpg

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Yes, that looks to be the hot air tube for the choke. The best way to repair it is to get the Dorman repair kit.

As for pictures, the forum doesn't rotate it. And that's the problem.

You are taking pictures with your camera rotated, and the camera puts orientation info in the picture's file. Most software reads that data a re-orients the pic so it looks right. But the forum software doesn't read the data nor orient the pic.

So, you basically have two choices. One is to orient your camera so down is down. On an iPhone I think that is with the volume buttons down, but I'm not sure of that nor do I know what it is for other phones. Second, you can use photo editing software to properly orient the pic. That's what I do. I take my pics in fairly high resolution and then edit them in Photoshop Express.

Thanks for the tips. I will try to remember to take everything in landscape the first time. As a hater of vertical video it shouldn't be too hard for me to remember. For my phone I think the volume rocker is on the top. But not sure if it matters on my phone as long as horizontal.

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Yes, that looks to be the hot air tube for the choke. The best way to repair it is to get the Dorman repair kit.

As for pictures, the forum doesn't rotate it. And that's the problem.

You are taking pictures with your camera rotated, and the camera puts orientation info in the picture's file. Most software reads that data a re-orients the pic so it looks right. But the forum software doesn't read the data nor orient the pic.

So, you basically have two choices. One is to orient your camera so down is down. On an iPhone I think that is with the volume buttons down, but I'm not sure of that nor do I know what it is for other phones. Second, you can use photo editing software to properly orient the pic. That's what I do. I take my pics in fairly high resolution and then edit them in Photoshop Express.

Thanks for the tips. I will try to remember to take everything in landscape the first time. As a hater of vertical video it shouldn't be too hard for me to remember. For my phone I think the volume rocker is on the top. But not sure if it matters on my phone as long as horizontal.

Looking good and now you know why we say as part of the brake system check up / rebuild to replace ALL RUBBER HOSES!

It also looks like that front rotor is a little thin.

I would have changed them out this way you know the front is 100% new.

My rotors still had meat on them but I did replace the calipers, pads & hoses up front.

Out back everything was new as I found a mess when the drums were pulled, yes the hose was changed out.

when I went to bleed my brakes I did not mess with the valve and dont think it made any difference.

What did was pressure bleeding as that was theonly way I could get any kind of pedal.

Dave ----

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I want to put the spare under the truck but it looks like I am missing some hardware for the middle. LMC has some of the parts I am missing but the two greyed out in the middle. How important is that bracket? Can I purchase some flat iron and drill a hole in it? Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like in real life? I imagine the nut is just a normal nut I hope.

I will get a picture of the tire mount as mine is off the truck, no wheel to use for a spare :nabble_smiley_cry:

Went thru my pictures and found this

20160514_172312.jpg.b083e8ff5e0f7b431ff0e1b3c71ace97.jpg

Dave ----

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I also removed the proportioning valve so I can flush the lines easier. I will clean it up before putting it back. The switch going to the top of the valve is strange. It has two contacts but they look bridged inside.

Looking for homemade bleeding tips without the tool. I don't want to ding it up with vise grips.

I am outside cleaning parts right now and got to the proportioning valve. I am not sure if there's something wrong with it or not but I can't get any flow through the rear brake side of the valve. Does it need pressure in the front part to open the rear? If I hook my compressed airline to the front in I will get air out of both front out sides. If I pull the bleeder button out it will stop all airflow in the front brakes totally. And the rear in is zero airflow to the rear out no matter what position the bleeder buttons in.

prop-valve_dentside.jpg.c5d66ebb51992d477422c1d91f93ad75.jpg

PXL_20210530_193847472.jpg.8924cb5d259654ce55dc376bc79247fb.jpg

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I am outside cleaning parts right now and got to the proportioning valve. I am not sure if there's something wrong with it or not but I can't get any flow through the rear brake side of the valve. Does it need pressure in the front part to open the rear? If I hook my compressed airline to the front in I will get air out of both front out sides. If I pull the bleeder button out it will stop all airflow in the front brakes totally. And the rear in is zero airflow to the rear out no matter what position the bleeder buttons in.

Here's my spare tire hanger and associated parts.

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