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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet.

Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet.

This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks.

So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line?

I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried.

Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks.

IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck.

FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one?

I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything.

Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today. It was 7ft overall length. Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement. I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214748343.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214740615.jpg

Yes that is how I got the 7' and if the metal line was straight, no bends, it would be 8'.

Is your truck a long bed or short bed?

IIRC the long bed tanks fit under the cab more but think the sender / fuel outlet would be back a little more on a long bed truck? Then again its been years since I did the fuel lines / tank install.

Dave ----

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Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001037642.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001048389.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_002712197.jpg

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door.

I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but??

Fuel line job looks nice :nabble_smiley_good:

Dave ----

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Ok the measurement I got if the line was straight is about 8 feet.

Quick measurement trying to follow the curves was about 7 feet and why if straight it would be 8 feet.

This would be what came off of my 81 flare side, they only came with 16 gallon side tanks.

So if your truck is a long bed and the line to short wonder if they got part numbers mixed up and you got a short bed line?

I know a 19 gallon side tank will not fit in place of a 16 gallon one as I tried.

Now when I added the dual tank setup from my parts truck I am pretty sure from the pump back to the valve and the valve all landed in the right place on the frame as they do make short bed style side trucks with dual tanks.

IIRC I had to shorten the rear tank line as it was for a long bed truck.

FYI IIRC the brake line to the rear had the same front lines between LB & SB trucks but the rears were different. I cant remember if I made the LB one shorter or used the SB one?

I do know I used the best of what ever I had on hand for everything.

Dave ----

I remembered to measure my old line today. It was 7ft overall length. Does that match yours? I was not clear on your method of measurement. I just put a tape measure next to it as pictured below.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214748343.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96340/PXL_20210506_214740615.jpg

Yes that is how I got the 7' and if the metal line was straight, no bends, it would be 8'.

Is your truck a long bed or short bed?

IIRC the long bed tanks fit under the cab more but think the sender / fuel outlet would be back a little more on a long bed truck? Then again its been years since I did the fuel lines / tank install.

Dave ----

Mine is a long bed. Inline Tube still has not replied to me.

 

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Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001037642.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001048389.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_002712197.jpg

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door.

I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but??

Fuel line job looks nice :nabble_smiley_good:

Dave ----

Thank you, I like it better. I still did not pick up the other rubber bumper I ordered from AutoZone for the lower side. I will update after I do but not much should change.

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Yesterday I installed clear rubber bumpers on the fuel door side to help cushion the closing more and keep the door parallel to the body of the truck. It also makes it easier to get your finger in to open the door. Inside view with the door closed also provided.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001037642.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_001048389.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96343/PXL_20210507_002712197.jpg

I like that, the LMC ones dont hold the door out enough and it is starting to mark the body behind the door.

I dont think the door sits to low that it is not even with the body but??

Fuel line job looks nice :nabble_smiley_good:

Dave ----

Friday night and Saturday I worked on the tank more. I insulated the rub points and then covered with tape for extra protection. After that I put several layers of rust protection on the top of the tank and prepped the bottom of the tank for rust protection after I install it. I didn't want to get sticky oil all over me when lifting it up so I will treat the bottom after I install it.

CRC Link

https://amzn.to/3hToquv

PXL_20210507_220449335.jpg.5669c1dc3e9f5c7cc4191557a9ccf32e.jpg

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PXL_20210508_140551119.jpg.199463be8a2127fb71a2f1dd6f8f0692.jpg

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PXL_20210508_153746067.jpg.83560e78e66a57733b67bc643ed8ca3f.jpg

 

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This sucks!!!! Got an empty box from eBay! Why couldn't they put some damn tape on the box??!! :nabble_smiley_cry:

Since my NOS battery hold down bracket got lost in shipping I painted the old one yesterday. I inverted a table and put string between the legs to hold it up whilst painting. It still is scared up from the rust but it shouldn't get any worse now.

PXL_20210414_000748034.jpg.271674db19c93fcd21af16fa795a65c0.jpg

PXL_20210501_155708846.jpg.740d8064ac7291213e07465b766f2979.jpg

PXL_20210508_153706414.jpg.db478c82a56c9f1f4a155562bc473116.jpg

PXL_20210508_153720224.jpg.af3ac75b6e9d65ee54cb6bbb10426edb.jpg

PXL_20210508_163335593.jpg.055018b8308bfee27064d59c90d5a329.jpg

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PXL_20210509_161839539.jpg.519b183218dc00785d52bc0f7781fc5d.jpg

 

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Since my NOS battery hold down bracket got lost in shipping I painted the old one yesterday. I inverted a table and put string between the legs to hold it up whilst painting. It still is scared up from the rust but it shouldn't get any worse now.

Yesterday I also removed the old fuel pump. The bolts were not very tight and it came off easy. The old rocker arm has a bend up on the end and the new one is straight across. I turned over the engine holding the fuel pump by hand until I felt the camshaft eccentric lower down with the fuel pump rocker arm riding on it. That way I won't need to use a lot of force to get the two bolts in. You still got to push down on the pump a little to get the bolts to line up but it is mostly just preload force. I also got a chance to use a new tungsten carbide tip scraper I got. I was surprised how good the new scraper is. Here is a link to the scraper.

https://amzn.to/2R6a8Mf

PXL_20210508_200718097.jpg.1e52160c62d32ab069c6243ace76a78f.jpg

PXL_20210508_200843699.jpg.fae93a2213d45fd10aeabb0b34ea4e7c.jpg

PXL_20210508_202251857.jpg.f64fa17384e36a21e6b47afe3c0b52b2.jpg

PXL_20210508_203142610.jpg.510f5a9cae864f16b6a8c00f3b86e5da.jpg

PXL_20210508_210427452.jpg.16cd97a101eeac907326d12e1ebf0a44.jpg

PXL_20210508_210943960.jpg.7d9dd1f71da9a2546e268a50c824e1d3.jpg

 

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Yesterday I also removed the old fuel pump. The bolts were not very tight and it came off easy. The old rocker arm has a bend up on the end and the new one is straight across. I turned over the engine holding the fuel pump by hand until I felt the camshaft eccentric lower down with the fuel pump rocker arm riding on it. That way I won't need to use a lot of force to get the two bolts in. You still got to push down on the pump a little to get the bolts to line up but it is mostly just preload force. I also got a chance to use a new tungsten carbide tip scraper I got. I was surprised how good the new scraper is. Here is a link to the scraper.

https://amzn.to/2R6a8Mf

On Sunday I installed the new mechanical fuel pump. The threads had some resistance in them so I chased it out with my thread restore kit. It was funny that where the tape covered the left hole last night the brake parts cleaner leaked out of the threads and ate the sticky part away. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs and before that put assembly lube on the rocker arm and the parts inside where the spring is as recommended. The gasket stayed in place because of the sticky spray gasket which helps free up a hand.

PXL_20210509_183613880.jpg.99828a7236911be42f9519ed14bdf265.jpg

PXL_20210509_183747215.jpg.b8b766a762b0b7fbc677882238b5c177.jpg

PXL_20210509_184000317.jpg.da9ddcd8c7b1173d8d2a5d7c676bde87.jpg

PXL_20210509_185217815.jpg.8c7b541b188d8b9188eb1ca20ada4771.jpg

PXL_20210509_185814118.jpg.faa7f9930def6ee2ed9d94aabf276449.jpg

PXL_20210509_190115178.jpg.2444ef393ffcd59d5354ca3a472d7e94.jpg

PXL_20210509_201637239.jpg.7931e61f7e4f6a7a9200a2bf72e3abd3.jpg

PXL_20210509_191111820.jpg.290ee13e4a3dc130ebf8de7b17d1d7c7.jpg

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On Sunday I installed the new mechanical fuel pump. The threads had some resistance in them so I chased it out with my thread restore kit. It was funny that where the tape covered the left hole last night the brake parts cleaner leaked out of the threads and ate the sticky part away. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs and before that put assembly lube on the rocker arm and the parts inside where the spring is as recommended. The gasket stayed in place because of the sticky spray gasket which helps free up a hand.

Looks good! I like how that scraper seems to have worked. And that gasket spray would be a big help in getting things lined up.

But where did you get the spec of 25 ft-lbs? The factory shop manual (Documentation/Engines/300 Six) says 12 - 18. I don't know that 25 will cause a problem, but....

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On Sunday I installed the new mechanical fuel pump. The threads had some resistance in them so I chased it out with my thread restore kit. It was funny that where the tape covered the left hole last night the brake parts cleaner leaked out of the threads and ate the sticky part away. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs and before that put assembly lube on the rocker arm and the parts inside where the spring is as recommended. The gasket stayed in place because of the sticky spray gasket which helps free up a hand.

After installing the new fuel pump I tested that it could pull a vacuum. After that I put a fuel container on the ground and let it pump up the fuel whilst cranking the engine. The test worked good so it looks like I am ready to install the fuel tank. I also installed the threaded fuel filter on the carburetor. It seemed not to want to stop when I was screwing it in. I worried I might crack the carburetor. So I just snugged it up and didn't try to go any tighter. If it leaks I can always tighten up some more.

PXL_20210509_192510866.jpg.4e30c9826f3af97a116cadff5041974e.jpg

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PXL_20210509_205325098.jpg.161a2ade2fa342284b551ddb96b6f8c9.jpg

 

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