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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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Well, you have a lot of work to do. But it sounds like you have the gumption to get it done.

Speaking of sounds (:nabble_thinking-26_orig:), maybe your dog would appreciate you getting new tires? The sound that compressor makes must be annoying.

What engine does it have? Transmission? Power brakes? I ask the latter because some of the F100's came with 5 x 4 1/2" lug bolt spacing, which is the same as many of the cars had. And, if I remember correctly the ones with power brakes and a GVWR of 4600 to 4700 lbs were the ones that have the smaller bolt pattern.

Anyway, you are going to have fun! :nabble_smiley_good:

Thanks for the feedback Gary. I will attach a picture of the tag on the transmission and a picture of the wheel. Not sure if it will shed some light or not. But it is an automatic 6 cylinder with power brakes I think. I am not sure what I will do for tires yet. I am missing a poverty cap but maybe I can find one to make it complete. I can measure the wheel spacing later to confirm.

Tag on the automatic transmission.

Wheel with no hubcap.

You can look here to get a little more information on the truck from your VIN. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vin-decoding.html

 

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The best way to find out what you have is to decode the certification label that should be on the driver's door jamb. Go to Documenation/Specifications/Certification Label in the menu.

I'm not finding exactly that number from the transmission in the master parts catalog, but I think it is a C6. But you can tell that from the certification label as well.

Thanks for letting me know where to look Gary. Here is what I found.

1FT = Ford Truck Complete Vehicle

C = Class C 4,001 - 5,000 pounds

F10 = F100 2wd

E = Fuel G Cylinder 6 C.I.D. 300 4.9 Litre 1 barrel LD

B = 1981

N = Norfolk

3B = Midnight Blue Metallic

3H = Medium Blue Metallic

F101 = 81 Pickup 4700 GWP F100 2WD

DB4 = Blue all vinyl Regular Cap w/styleside pickup box 99 Behind Cab Parts

K = 3 Speed C6 Automatic

01= Ratio 2.75 Capacity 2.8M (What does 2.8M mean?)

21 = DSO Atlanta

 

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The best way to find out what you have is to decode the certification label that should be on the driver's door jamb. Go to Documenation/Specifications/Certification Label in the menu.

I'm not finding exactly that number from the transmission in the master parts catalog, but I think it is a C6. But you can tell that from the certification label as well.

Thanks for letting me know where to look Gary. Here is what I found.

1FT = Ford Truck Complete Vehicle

C = Class C 4,001 - 5,000 pounds

F10 = F100 2wd

E = Fuel G Cylinder 6 C.I.D. 300 4.9 Litre 1 barrel LD

B = 1981

N = Norfolk

3B = Midnight Blue Metallic

3H = Medium Blue Metallic

F101 = 81 Pickup 4700 GWP F100 2WD

DB4 = Blue all vinyl Regular Cap w/styleside pickup box 99 Behind Cab Parts

K = 3 Speed C6 Automatic

01= Ratio 2.75 Capacity 2.8M (What does 2.8M mean?)

21 = DSO Atlanta

 

Welcome.

2.8M means the axle has a 2800 pound rating.

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The best way to find out what you have is to decode the certification label that should be on the driver's door jamb. Go to Documenation/Specifications/Certification Label in the menu.

I'm not finding exactly that number from the transmission in the master parts catalog, but I think it is a C6. But you can tell that from the certification label as well.

Thanks for letting me know where to look Gary. Here is what I found.

1FT = Ford Truck Complete Vehicle

C = Class C 4,001 - 5,000 pounds

F10 = F100 2wd

E = Fuel G Cylinder 6 C.I.D. 300 4.9 Litre 1 barrel LD

B = 1981

N = Norfolk

3B = Midnight Blue Metallic

3H = Medium Blue Metallic

F101 = 81 Pickup 4700 GWP F100 2WD

DB4 = Blue all vinyl Regular Cap w/styleside pickup box 99 Behind Cab Parts

K = 3 Speed C6 Automatic

01= Ratio 2.75 Capacity 2.8M (What does 2.8M mean?)

21 = DSO Atlanta

 

M= thousand, so I'd expect the RAWR is 2,800#

You can confirm this by looking at the tire & axle info at the top of the tag.

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I came here from your welcome post asking what you think your truck needs.

A battery (plus hold down, perhaps a ground cable and a new ignition module) should be a good start.

If the fuel system has been sitting for a dozen years you may as well drain the tank and rebuild the carburetor, before cycling any more sludge and rust through the system.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate you checking out my post and assistance.

The battery tray I ordered but couldn't find the hold down bracket with the two bolts. I also replaced the ground cable and positive cable. I think the ignition module may be okay as I was getting spark during my test yesterday. The tank sounded hollow so I added some fuel. I disconnected the fuel line going to the carb and no fuel is coming out. I just got the carb rebuild kit from Mike's carb parts yesterday.

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Cool. Where in NC? I replied to your email before I saw this.

You won't have to have ANY inspection at all in NC since it is over 35 years old. But I agreee it is best to have nice taillight lenses so folks see your lights. That busted one in photos was definitely a no go.

Make sure brake lights work properly when you get on road. My switch went bad other week and it had been replaced recently... they are cheap and easy.

I live in Raleigh. When I went to the DMV to transfer the title with the owner they gave me my plate right away! I also applied for an antique plate. I thought the antique plate was the only way to avoid inspection is which is why I got it. Oh well, I guess the plate will look cool. My hazard lights work but my turn signals don't work. I think the switch maybe corroded. I have not tested the brake light yet.

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To make sure the engine would spin free I removed all the spark plugs and filled each cylinder with transmission fluid. The next day I turned it over. Oh boy did it make a mess. I mean transmission fluid on my car, house, in the garage, my motorcycle in the garage, the ground... Just everywhere! Next time I will put a trash bag over the engine when I do that. Attached is a picture of the red fish smell transmission fluid mist coming from the engine bay.

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