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1981 Ford F100 Revival (Parked for 12 years)


Jonathan

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Yesterday I picked out the hardware for the drivers side front tire area that will be rust protected and not painted. I decided not to paint some hardware due to the fact it will be hard to prevent it from getting scratched up when installing and torqueing to spec. The rest of the hardware is ready to be painted after a final cleaning and everything will start going back together.

I got some part painting done after work yesterday. It didn't go well. I am not sure if it is because I was too rushed because of the setting sun or the temp was just hardly warm enough to paint. Some parts will need to be done again. The primer went on well but the paint did not. One part is still drying for some reason and even looks wet. After the paint dries on the brake dust shield I will sand it down a little and paint again. No close up's. Too embarrassing.

After further thought I think density was working against me. And I was spraying too close to compensate for the wind. The paint started to draw down and gather near the opening and bubble. When I repaint I will lay it down flat so I won't need to fight density.

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I got some part painting done after work yesterday. It didn't go well. I am not sure if it is because I was too rushed because of the setting sun or the temp was just hardly warm enough to paint. Some parts will need to be done again. The primer went on well but the paint did not. One part is still drying for some reason and even looks wet. After the paint dries on the brake dust shield I will sand it down a little and paint again. No close up's. Too embarrassing.

After further thought I think density was working against me. And I was spraying too close to compensate for the wind. The paint started to draw down and gather near the opening and bubble. When I repaint I will lay it down flat so I won't need to fight density.

It took me several hours after work yesterday to fix the brake shield. I had to strip all the paint off and paint again. The first picture is the before I stripped it back down. It was still wet even after 24 hours! But I think I figured out what happened. The trigger on the can was not pushed down all the way from the factory. The metal rod in the trigger was only activating if you pressed down really hard. For some reason this was causing the paint to come out thick and not in a fine mist. Also paint was pooling up and dripping everywhere. Even after fixing that the paint was still not drying like it usually does and was wet even this morning as you see in the picture in a few spots. Maybe I usually only paint in the summer time and never noticed the dry time is longer in cooler weather. After I turned on the heater this morning and heated up the part it dried very fast and seems fine now.

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It took me several hours after work yesterday to fix the brake shield. I had to strip all the paint off and paint again. The first picture is the before I stripped it back down. It was still wet even after 24 hours! But I think I figured out what happened. The trigger on the can was not pushed down all the way from the factory. The metal rod in the trigger was only activating if you pressed down really hard. For some reason this was causing the paint to come out thick and not in a fine mist. Also paint was pooling up and dripping everywhere. Even after fixing that the paint was still not drying like it usually does and was wet even this morning as you see in the picture in a few spots. Maybe I usually only paint in the summer time and never noticed the dry time is longer in cooler weather. After I turned on the heater this morning and heated up the part it dried very fast and seems fine now.

Interesting! How cold is it there?

But the brake shield looks great. Be glad you even have them. Big Blue doesn't have any as they were beat up so badly I couldn't use them.

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Interesting! How cold is it there?

But the brake shield looks great. Be glad you even have them. Big Blue doesn't have any as they were beat up so badly I couldn't use them.

It's not cold enough to think there would be an issue. The temperature when I painted was 69F outside. The garage didn't get below 60F all night. Either this paint likes the heat or I have some defective cans. I will contact the manufacture today and ask.

Yeah I am glad I have them as you can't find replacements. A few more years and they would of been gone. The rust really started to eat away at it.

Interesting! How cold is it there?

But the brake shield looks great. Be glad you even have them. Big Blue doesn't have any as they were beat up so badly I couldn't use them.

 

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It took me several hours after work yesterday to fix the brake shield. I had to strip all the paint off and paint again. The first picture is the before I stripped it back down. It was still wet even after 24 hours! But I think I figured out what happened. The trigger on the can was not pushed down all the way from the factory. The metal rod in the trigger was only activating if you pressed down really hard. For some reason this was causing the paint to come out thick and not in a fine mist. Also paint was pooling up and dripping everywhere. Even after fixing that the paint was still not drying like it usually does and was wet even this morning as you see in the picture in a few spots. Maybe I usually only paint in the summer time and never noticed the dry time is longer in cooler weather. After I turned on the heater this morning and heated up the part it dried very fast and seems fine now.

Engine enamel always seems to take a very long time to dry for me. (and up to a week to truly get hard)

I'm sure some of this is due to tightening VOC regulations, but I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a bad batch, Jonathan.

These dust shields are completely gone here in the salty northeast, and would have been one of those items that would have cost pennies more to stamp from stainless steel had Ford been concerned about longevity.

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Engine enamel always seems to take a very long time to dry for me. (and up to a week to truly get hard)

I'm sure some of this is due to tightening VOC regulations, but I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a bad batch, Jonathan.

These dust shields are completely gone here in the salty northeast, and would have been one of those items that would have cost pennies more to stamp from stainless steel had Ford been concerned about longevity.

Hey Jim, thanks for the feedback on your drying time. I just got off the phone with Dupli-Color. Their support had a very bad attitude today and was not easy to talk to. But they said that since it dried when I applied heat it is probably not a bad batch. They were not interested in recording down the lot number even when I told them the nozzles on half the new cans are not pushed down all the way causing it to not come out in a fine mist. Now I know what to look for I will be more careful. I would switch brands but I have had good luck with it and don't want to switch. But I am not happy with their Customer Disservice Department.

Picture attached is the nozzle. It is hard to tell but the nozzle is not pushed down all the way. The metal rod should make contact with the top of the trigger. If it is not it will cause the paint to pool up on the top of the can and spit chunks out on your work.

Engine enamel always seems to take a very long time to dry for me. (and up to a week to truly get hard)

I'm sure some of this is due to tightening VOC regulations, but I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a bad batch, Jonathan.

These dust shields are completely gone here in the salty northeast, and would have been one of those items that would have cost pennies more to stamp from stainless steel had Ford been concerned about longevity.

PXL_20220429_141317644.jpg.e359a5411047223f6d4acec95edde4b4.jpg

 

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Hey Jim, thanks for the feedback on your drying time. I just got off the phone with Dupli-Color. Their support had a very bad attitude today and was not easy to talk to. But they said that since it dried when I applied heat it is probably not a bad batch. They were not interested in recording down the lot number even when I told them the nozzles on half the new cans are not pushed down all the way causing it to not come out in a fine mist. Now I know what to look for I will be more careful. I would switch brands but I have had good luck with it and don't want to switch. But I am not happy with their Customer Disservice Department.

Picture attached is the nozzle. It is hard to tell but the nozzle is not pushed down all the way. The metal rod should make contact with the top of the trigger. If it is not it will cause the paint to pool up on the top of the can and spit chunks out on your work.

Engine enamel always seems to take a very long time to dry for me. (and up to a week to truly get hard)

I'm sure some of this is due to tightening VOC regulations, but I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a bad batch, Jonathan.

These dust shields are completely gone here in the salty northeast, and would have been one of those items that would have cost pennies more to stamp from stainless steel had Ford been concerned about longevity.

Here is a before and after.

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PXL_20220429_145434188.jpg.ab43a549f3b85e3d0e686f168c92b60e.jpg

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Hey Jim, thanks for the feedback on your drying time. I just got off the phone with Dupli-Color. Their support had a very bad attitude today and was not easy to talk to. But they said that since it dried when I applied heat it is probably not a bad batch. They were not interested in recording down the lot number even when I told them the nozzles on half the new cans are not pushed down all the way causing it to not come out in a fine mist. Now I know what to look for I will be more careful. I would switch brands but I have had good luck with it and don't want to switch. But I am not happy with their Customer Disservice Department.

Picture attached is the nozzle. It is hard to tell but the nozzle is not pushed down all the way. The metal rod should make contact with the top of the trigger. If it is not it will cause the paint to pool up on the top of the can and spit chunks out on your work.

Engine enamel always seems to take a very long time to dry for me. (and up to a week to truly get hard)

I'm sure some of this is due to tightening VOC regulations, but I'm not suggesting that you didn't get a bad batch, Jonathan.

These dust shields are completely gone here in the salty northeast, and would have been one of those items that would have cost pennies more to stamp from stainless steel had Ford been concerned about longevity.

I'm sorry to hear that Dupli-Color would treat you like that. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

You shouldn't have to be their QC.

Glad you were able to figure it out and get an acceptable finish. :nabble_smiley_cool:

I haven't painted an engine in quite some time but distinctly remember using their ceramic engine enamel when I had to replace my water pump.

Given the time crunch nature of that repair there was no way I could wait for a cure and simply gave it a few coats before I drained down the coolant and dug in to disassembly.

I certainly wasn't concerned about cosmetics, only rust protection.

 

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I'm sorry to hear that Dupli-Color would treat you like that. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

You shouldn't have to be their QC.

Glad you were able to figure it out and get an acceptable finish. :nabble_smiley_cool:

I haven't painted an engine in quite some time but distinctly remember using their ceramic engine enamel when I had to replace my water pump.

Given the time crunch nature of that repair there was no way I could wait for a cure and simply gave it a few coats before I drained down the coolant and dug in to disassembly.

I certainly wasn't concerned about cosmetics, only rust protection.

I am just glad I figured it out on a small piece and didn't mess up something larger. It already took me a few hours of extra labor to fix it. The star of the show is coming up next and it will be much harder to fix if I have to.

I'm sorry to hear that Dupli-Color would treat you like that. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

You shouldn't have to be their QC.

Glad you were able to figure it out and get an acceptable finish. :nabble_smiley_cool:

I haven't painted an engine in quite some time but distinctly remember using their ceramic engine enamel when I had to replace my water pump.

Given the time crunch nature of that repair there was no way I could wait for a cure and simply gave it a few coats before I drained down the coolant and dug in to disassembly.

I certainly wasn't concerned about cosmetics, only rust protection.

PXL_20220314_212659594.jpg.90844698555f9a6a6203ad4c4626eab1.jpg

 

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I am just glad I figured it out on a small piece and didn't mess up something larger. It already took me a few hours of extra labor to fix it. The star of the show is coming up next and it will be much harder to fix if I have to.

I'm sorry to hear that Dupli-Color would treat you like that. :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

You shouldn't have to be their QC.

Glad you were able to figure it out and get an acceptable finish. :nabble_smiley_cool:

I haven't painted an engine in quite some time but distinctly remember using their ceramic engine enamel when I had to replace my water pump.

Given the time crunch nature of that repair there was no way I could wait for a cure and simply gave it a few coats before I drained down the coolant and dug in to disassembly.

I certainly wasn't concerned about cosmetics, only rust protection.

Bummer about the paint, but your truck is looking good! Good job!

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