Jonathan Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 My next step is to install this bushing and paint the control arm (correct name?). From the research I did they said to put the bushing in the freezer to make it easier to install. I think I want to install it before I paint it so I won't damage the paint pushing it on. I just hope that it won't rust under it and leak rust juice on the paint where the paint won't reach after it is pressed on. My question is about install lubricant. Many say not to use lube because you don't want it to spin. It needs to be a pressed fit. So from what I understand these are my best options that don't leave a residue which could cause it to spin. Let me know your thoughts. Windex Soapy Water Ru-Glyde Tire Mounting and Rubber Lubricant Also do I need to install immediately after pressing on? Does the bushing need weight applied in the correct position to settle correctly? Does anyone have a picture or part number for the under hood toolbox? (Update) Found a picture online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Does anyone have a picture or part number for the under hood toolbox? (Update) Found a picture online. I'll respond to your other posts later, but see if our page at Documentation/Underhood/Toolbox doesn't answer your last question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 I'll respond to your other posts later, but see if our page at Documentation/Underhood/Toolbox doesn't answer your last question. Thanks Gary, sorry I missed that. I did look around a little. It seems it will be hard to find but is handy. I'll respond to your other posts later, but see if our page at Documentation/Underhood/Toolbox doesn't answer your last question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Thanks Gary, sorry I missed that. I did look around a little. It seems it will be hard to find but is handy. I'll respond to your other posts later, but see if our page at Documentation/Underhood/Toolbox doesn't answer your last question. Don't worry about not finding things. I'm the one that puts them on the site and there are time I can't find them! And where I put them seems logical to me, at the time, but maybe not for others. So just ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Yesterday I discovered a light behind the bumper on the drivers side. I was going to ask on here but did a search online for what it was for. Turns out that a lot of trucks on the dealers lot did not come with a rear bumper. The license plate mounted to the back under the bed. So the light was the original license plate light. After the truck was purchased it seems many put on an aftermarket bumper or paid the Ford dealer to install one that may of been aftermarket also. I would prefer a regular chrome rear bumper and a hitch under it. What hardware will I need other then the bumper to attach it to the frame? The current bumper I don't like but it seems strong. I remember when you could get a Fey or Westin bumper almost anywhere for $100 ($125 for chrome) Now I've got no idea. Everything seems welded up and set for some African safari or crossing the Rubicon. What did you use to isolate your gas tank from the frame? When I replaced my side tank a few months back I cut some strips from an old vinyl floor mat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 I remember when you could get a Fey or Westin bumper almost anywhere for $100 ($125 for chrome) Now I've got no idea. Everything seems welded up and set for some African safari or crossing the Rubicon. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif What did you use to isolate your gas tank from the frame? When I replaced my side tank a few months back I cut some strips from an old vinyl floor mat. I used foam strips and tape to isolate the gas tank from the frame. I remember when you could get a Fey or Westin bumper almost anywhere for $100 ($125 for chrome) Now I've got no idea. Everything seems welded up and set for some African safari or crossing the Rubicon. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif What did you use to isolate your gas tank from the frame? When I replaced my side tank a few months back I cut some strips from an old vinyl floor mat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 I used foam strips and tape to isolate the gas tank from the frame. I remember when you could get a Fey or Westin bumper almost anywhere for $100 ($125 for chrome) Now I've got no idea. Everything seems welded up and set for some African safari or crossing the Rubicon. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif What did you use to isolate your gas tank from the frame? When I replaced my side tank a few months back I cut some strips from an old vinyl floor mat. On Saturday I installed the bushing. I was trying to rush too much because I just got the bushing out of the freezer and worried it would get up to ambient temperature too fast. The interference fit was too tight and it started to gouge into the bushing. After some fighting I managed to get the bushing back out. I then proceeded to file down the bushing edge so it will start in easier and I also filed down the rest of the body as well. But I was more aggressive with the leading edge so it would get a good start. I did try to not use lube but going in with just Windex was not working well so I upgraded to anti seize grease. I also filed down the lines in the inside of the control arm hole so it was more smooth. In the close up pictures you can see the before and after. It was such a tight fit that even with the lube I am optimistic that it won't rotate around. I pushed it in until it was more or less centered like it was before. Now I need to paint the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 On Saturday I installed the bushing. I was trying to rush too much because I just got the bushing out of the freezer and worried it would get up to ambient temperature too fast. The interference fit was too tight and it started to gouge into the bushing. After some fighting I managed to get the bushing back out. I then proceeded to file down the bushing edge so it will start in easier and I also filed down the rest of the body as well. But I was more aggressive with the leading edge so it would get a good start. I did try to not use lube but going in with just Windex was not working well so I upgraded to anti seize grease. I also filed down the lines in the inside of the control arm hole so it was more smooth. In the close up pictures you can see the before and after. It was such a tight fit that even with the lube I am optimistic that it won't rotate around. I pushed it in until it was more or less centered like it was before. Now I need to paint the arm. Well done! Yes, those things are a tight fit, so I'm glad you got it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 26, 2022 Author Share Posted April 26, 2022 Well done! Yes, those things are a tight fit, so I'm glad you got it in. Now that I have completed my first bushing I will have more confidence when I do the passenger side. Hopefully the whole passenger side will be completed faster then the drivers side. Well done! Yes, those things are a tight fit, so I'm glad you got it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted April 26, 2022 Author Share Posted April 26, 2022 On Saturday I installed the bushing. I was trying to rush too much because I just got the bushing out of the freezer and worried it would get up to ambient temperature too fast. The interference fit was too tight and it started to gouge into the bushing. After some fighting I managed to get the bushing back out. I then proceeded to file down the bushing edge so it will start in easier and I also filed down the rest of the body as well. But I was more aggressive with the leading edge so it would get a good start. I did try to not use lube but going in with just Windex was not working well so I upgraded to anti seize grease. I also filed down the lines in the inside of the control arm hole so it was more smooth. In the close up pictures you can see the before and after. It was such a tight fit that even with the lube I am optimistic that it won't rotate around. I pushed it in until it was more or less centered like it was before. Now I need to paint the arm. Yesterday I picked out the hardware for the drivers side front tire area that will be rust protected and not painted. I decided not to paint some hardware due to the fact it will be hard to prevent it from getting scratched up when installing and torqueing to spec. The rest of the hardware is ready to be painted after a final cleaning and everything will start going back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts