Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2022 Share Posted May 13, 2022 Personally the most concerning thing here is that lower thermostat housing bolt. 😶 We all know that those rarely get the proper sealant. You can see the chest bolts were all solid enough to take a hammering and I'm sure Alex has already tried grabbing what's left with locking pliers. Sure, the bolts will have pitting, but all that corrosion is from the magnesium, zinc and aluminum in the timing case alloy. I use passivated stainless bolts because they don't pit, leaving a smooth shank the corrosion can't grab hold of. If they are rusted tight into the block there is no easy answer. Wasn't it Scott who was going to hang an anode in his radiator? What happened with that??? Yes, I think it was Scott. Let's see what he has to say... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted May 13, 2022 Share Posted May 13, 2022 Personally the most concerning thing here is that lower thermostat housing bolt. 😶 We all know that those rarely get the proper sealant. You can see the chest bolts were all solid enough to take a hammering and I'm sure Alex has already tried grabbing what's left with locking pliers. Sure, the bolts will have pitting, but all that corrosion is from the magnesium, zinc and aluminum in the timing case alloy. I use passivated stainless bolts because they don't pit, leaving a smooth shank the corrosion can't grab hold of. If they are rusted tight into the block there is no easy answer. Wasn't it Scott who was going to hang an anode in his radiator? What happened with that??? Never could get that thing to seal properly I just did a flush/refill a couple days ago and actually pulled that cap with the anode out of the box and back onto my workbench to look into again. So sadly I can't really say if it is being sacrificially consumed or not. Edit... I guess since my second filler neck port is now filled with the Water Weld, I could tap it for a small, long bolt. Install the bolt with sealer (or permanently with more WW), remove the anode from the junky cap and hang it from the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2022 Share Posted May 13, 2022 Never could get that thing to seal properly I just did a flush/refill a couple days ago and actually pulled that cap with the anode out of the box and back onto my workbench to look into again. So sadly I can't really say if it is being sacrificially consumed or not. Edit... I guess since my second filler neck port is now filled with the Water Weld, I could tap it for a small, long bolt. Install the bolt with sealer (or permanently with more WW), remove the anode from the junky cap and hang it from the bolt. That port we filled with epoxy would almost work - except that the coolant is usually a bit below that point. And it may be too small to get the anode in there and still insulate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted May 13, 2022 Share Posted May 13, 2022 That port we filled with epoxy would almost work - except that the coolant is usually a bit below that point. And it may be too small to get the anode in there and still insulate it. I think I was editing at the same time you were posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 13, 2022 Share Posted May 13, 2022 I think I was editing at the same time you were posting Yep. But your idea of hanging it from the bolt would work. And, of course, you know that an 8mm tap cuts threads nicely in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 Yep. But your idea of hanging it from the bolt would work. And, of course, you know that an 8mm tap cuts threads nicely in there. UPDATE: I tried removing the bolts via welding nuts on, Nuts and washers on. I was able to get ti down to the 2 long bolts through the timing chain cover. I had one break off inside the cover, and the other I didn't go any further with. I began pulling the timing cover way from the motor, and got it to lift a bit, but used all of my leveraging skills I could muster, everything short of breaking off that last bolt (which would have most probably broke flush with the block), and i did not want to do that, so I chose to destroy the timing cover and get a new one. Once the old onw was off I had enough sticking out and got ride of the fuel line so I could heat the block a bit with a propane torch. It took serval tries but I got ALL of the bolts out of the block without drilling or tapping. As I think about it now I realized that the drilling and tapping isn't the issue it's the level of stress during the slow tedious process that makes me resistant to use that most of the time. The worrying if, 1. I'm on center 2. Drill too deep 3. Break one of the drill bits 4. Worse yet, the tap ah....The agony! Replaced the Timing Cover, Water Pump, T-Stat, and Hoses, added a Used 3-Row Radiator, and I went with Aftermarket 12-Pt Stainless Fasteners for re-install (I'm not going to have this issue again since I see some motor work in my future) It'll be easier in the long run. Thank you for all of the suggestions! I do have another problem regarding fuel, or the lack of it, that I'll Post later today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 UPDATE: I tried removing the bolts via welding nuts on, Nuts and washers on. I was able to get ti down to the 2 long bolts through the timing chain cover. I had one break off inside the cover, and the other I didn't go any further with. I began pulling the timing cover way from the motor, and got it to lift a bit, but used all of my leveraging skills I could muster, everything short of breaking off that last bolt (which would have most probably broke flush with the block), and i did not want to do that, so I chose to destroy the timing cover and get a new one. Once the old onw was off I had enough sticking out and got ride of the fuel line so I could heat the block a bit with a propane torch. It took serval tries but I got ALL of the bolts out of the block without drilling or tapping. As I think about it now I realized that the drilling and tapping isn't the issue it's the level of stress during the slow tedious process that makes me resistant to use that most of the time. The worrying if, 1. I'm on center 2. Drill too deep 3. Break one of the drill bits 4. Worse yet, the tap ah....The agony! Replaced the Timing Cover, Water Pump, T-Stat, and Hoses, added a Used 3-Row Radiator, and I went with Aftermarket 12-Pt Stainless Fasteners for re-install (I'm not going to have this issue again since I see some motor work in my future) It'll be easier in the long run. Thank you for all of the suggestions! I do have another problem regarding fuel, or the lack of it, that I'll Post later today Glad it worked out, Alex. I think the stainless bolts are a good idea. However, did you use something on the bolts to prevent them from seizing in the aluminum of the timing cover or the block? Something like the Loctite 56747 PST? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARIAT 85 Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 The thermactor port at the back of each head will take a 5/8-11 bolt when you remove the air injection crossover pipe. This bolt should be really short (like 1/2") so you're going to cut down a bolt that has threads to the head. I'm pretty sure Gary has recommended using a metal crush washer to seal them. Those you can find in the HELP! section, for drain plugs. 5/8 is about = to 16mm I used these inserts to seal the thermactor holes in the back of my E7 heads: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-51400265?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnNyUBhCZARIsAI9AYlESOh8If1K7Jj6PMVapri9VduTaLI4V7cTMF3Rw-_z8yY5fYrQJVpoaAlz0EALw_wcB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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