ArdWrknTrk Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Jim, you are probably old enough to remember the cruciform frame GM products, I know Gary is since he owned a W head Chevy. The exhaust on those went under the frame front kickup then followed the lines of the frame with the mufflers near the front and when the exhaust system got to the rear up and over the axle and straight or angled for exit. The hangers were behind the mufflers at the front so the weight of the mufflers pulled down on the pipes. The real fun was watching a more powerful engine (348/409) twist on the flimsy mounts and bring the left side muffler up against the floor and nearly drag the right side on the ground. The point here is the further out the pipes run, the greater the movement under load. Sometime I will see if I can do a good drawing of what I designed for my 1977 F150 when I put the 390 in it. Another option is to look at what Ford did with the mid 1984 - 1987 460s where it is dual to the muffler. I understand exactly why a greater distance from centerline means swinging a bigger arc. (And why mud trucks with fenderwell headers have plate mounted engines) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 I understand exactly why a greater distance from centerline means swinging a bigger arc. (And why mud trucks with fenderwell headers have plate mounted engines) All Good inputs. I had thought about the movement of the motor, but I may have under estimated how much that it could be. I though of a "Flex-Piper" connection on each side, but if the engine moves too much it may need more than that. As for heat shielding has anyone with with the materials from these guys? Heat Shield Products keep the ides flowing :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 All Good inputs. I had thought about the movement of the motor, but I may have under estimated how much that it could be. I though of a "Flex-Piper" connection on each side, but if the engine moves too much it may need more than that. As for heat shielding has anyone with with the materials from these guys? Heat Shield Products keep the ides flowing :-) Gary, I was only going on this write up ( Magnaflow vs Flowmaster) it sounded that the Flowmaster was a better choice but that's all I have to go on. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CtbApXpBuovOYsqwYNnocbAxarLmWvWuXT5ZLv7rOQJ774UeuS3kf6tj6U_EUaazX9SmizPpC_3quZo0-Et_FPExy3XodDdUM_D1XmSZaOevleofsSsN0ZJLllRuh-BJgZITX0O5G_A=w552-h315-p-k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Gary, I was only going on this write up ( Magnaflow vs Flowmaster) it sounded that the Flowmaster was a better choice but that's all I have to go on. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CtbApXpBuovOYsqwYNnocbAxarLmWvWuXT5ZLv7rOQJ774UeuS3kf6tj6U_EUaazX9SmizPpC_3quZo0-Et_FPExy3XodDdUM_D1XmSZaOevleofsSsN0ZJLllRuh-BJgZITX0O5G_A=w552-h315-p-k All I know is that I had a Flowmaster that made a 351W sound flatulent. I installed a Magnaflow and it was much deeper and quieter. Can't tell you which models, but I've used Magnaflow since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 All Good inputs. I had thought about the movement of the motor, but I may have under estimated how much that it could be. I though of a "Flex-Piper" connection on each side, but if the engine moves too much it may need more than that. As for heat shielding has anyone with with the materials from these guys? Heat Shield Products keep the ides flowing :-) I'm not familiar with the product, but I am opposed to the braided/woven wrap type insulation. That looks good, but at what price? I would probably go with a piece of stainless smoke pipe cut in half and mounted on standoffs. But I'm a cheap old bastard and set in my ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 I'm not familiar with the product, but I am opposed to the braided/woven wrap type insulation. That looks good, but at what price? I would probably go with a piece of stainless smoke pipe cut in half and mounted on standoffs. But I'm a cheap old bastard and set in my ways. Thanks Jim, I'm not a fan of the "Wrap" approach to headers either. I was thinking of building my own with some aluminum sheet and , you beat me to it, "Standoffs". I also do not see a need to spend big money on performance .... if your handy Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Thanks Jim, I'm not a fan of the "Wrap" approach to headers either. I was thinking of building my own with some aluminum sheet and , you beat me to it, "Standoffs". I also do not see a need to spend big money on performance .... if your handy Thanks for the input. I saw some stainless snap lock pipe at WinSupply a while back and thought to myself 'it would be real easy to cut that with a zip disc opposite the seam and get two 180° sections out of it' But if you have a way to roll aluminium, then you've already got a handle on it. Definitely want to see what you come up with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 I saw some stainless snap lock pipe at WinSupply a while back and thought to myself 'it would be real easy to cut that with a zip disc opposite the seam and get two 180° sections out of it' But if you have a way to roll aluminium, then you've already got a handle on it. Definitely want to see what you come up with! Haven't forgotten, Quick update: Headers have arrived no dents looks like a great start. I doubt i'll have any action for a few weeks at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted August 5, 2021 Author Share Posted August 5, 2021 Haven't forgotten, Quick update: Headers have arrived no dents looks like a great start. I doubt i'll have any action for a few weeks at least Alright still no real updates, obviously not a critical element in my life but I have started to think ahead of the project and seeing the need to consider "de-smogging" the engine while installing the headers. In combination with this I realized I would be , and at that point, eliminating the Air Pump, replacing it with another "Air" pump (I've planned to add a York-style, on-board compressor) and I though that the Emissions pump location might serve that purpose well, by fabricating the right mounting bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 Alright still no real updates, obviously not a critical element in my life but I have started to think ahead of the project and seeing the need to consider "de-smogging" the engine while installing the headers. In combination with this I realized I would be , and at that point, eliminating the Air Pump, replacing it with another "Air" pump (I've planned to add a York-style, on-board compressor) and I though that the Emissions pump location might serve that purpose well, by fabricating the right mounting bracket. The thermactor port at the back of each head will take a 5/8-11 bolt when you remove the air injection crossover pipe. This bolt should be really short (like 1/2") so you're going to cut down a bolt that has threads to the head. I'm pretty sure Gary has recommended using a metal crush washer to seal them. Those you can find in the HELP! section, for drain plugs. 5/8 is about = to 16mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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