Must Do Truck Upgrades?

[Gary Lewis]

Ouch. Didn't realize they were that much. I bought mine NIB locally. I fully admit I don't really have a good answer that would make sense to anyone else but a big part of it was that it fit into how I wanted to do the wiring.

So while it's worth the risk to me in my setup, I am also not blind to the reasons someone would think it's a bad idea.

I am not trying to talk anyone into it or out of it and hope it doesn't come across that way. Just saying that if someone is wanting to go with a 1 wire that I have had a good experience with this Powermaster and wouldn't hesitate (well, aside from the cost...) to put one on another of my trucks.

Now, if it gives up the ghost tomorrow I may be singing a different tune...

That’s an answer I can understand and accept.

[Jordanlogo]

I have had mixed results with Powermaster starters but so far no complaints on the 1 wire alt of theirs that I am using. It's called a Ford Upgrade.

Do you know if I can transfer my 2 belt pulley onto these 1 wire alternators like you can for a 1G/2G to 3G? Most of the 1 wire alts are all 1 belt pulleys.

[kramttocs]

I have had mixed results with Powermaster starters but so far no complaints on the 1 wire alt of theirs that I am using. It's called a Ford Upgrade.

Do you know if I can transfer my 2 belt pulley onto these 1 wire alternators like you can for a 1G/2G to 3G? Most of the 1 wire alts are all 1 belt pulleys.

You can. My 1wire came with a 6groove pulley so I swapped it with the 2V one that came with the L&L mounting kit (used to eliminate the 460 air pump bracket)

[Jordanlogo]

You can. My 1wire came with a 6groove pulley so I swapped it with the 2V one that came with the L&L mounting kit (used to eliminate the 460 air pump bracket)

Woohoo! Thanks! I think I’m going to go against the grain and go 1 Wire

 

[BLES]

Jordan - Which LED headlights did you go with? Are you happy with them?

Regarding Scott's suggestion of pulling the HVAC resistor, that is a MUST. But you might find it helpful to not only pull the resistor but also pull the motor. Just takes a few screws to get it out and it gives even more access into the innards of the plenum.

I've forgotten what year your truck is already. So it would be helpful if you put some details about it in a signature, instructions for which can be found on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page.

But the reason the year is important is that the 1986 trucks came with the dreaded 2G alternators. It has been called the Firestarter by some due to a connection problem it had. So if yours is an '86 you should read 2G ALTERNATOR REPAIR: TSB 96-21-4.

Could someone elaborate on the comments about the resistor and heater motor, please? It sounds like you're referring to a known problem....

Sorry, it's not known to me! Please educate me.

Thanks.

[kramttocs]

Could someone elaborate on the comments about the resistor and heater motor, please? It sounds like you're referring to a known problem....

Sorry, it's not known to me! Please educate me.

Thanks.

This is referring to the hvac box you see in the engine bay against the firewall, passenger side.

Your blower motor is there and to the right of it a red rectangle with wires going to it.

What happens is that leaves, mice nests, etc end up in this area. At best it interferes with air flow. At worst debris can contact the elements on the backside of the red rectangle and catch on fire.

As Gary said, removing the blower will get you a lot of access. Then you can remove the red rectangle and make sure nothing is stuck in there. The last one I pulled had string all wrapped up in it.

If you find anything good - take photos Always fun to see what is in there.

[Gary Lewis]

This is referring to the hvac box you see in the engine bay against the firewall, passenger side.

Your blower motor is there and to the right of it a red rectangle with wires going to it.

What happens is that leaves, mice nests, etc end up in this area. At best it interferes with air flow. At worst debris can contact the elements on the backside of the red rectangle and catch on fire.

As Gary said, removing the blower will get you a lot of access. Then you can remove the red rectangle and make sure nothing is stuck in there. The last one I pulled had string all wrapped up in it.

If you find anything good - take photos Always fun to see what is in there.

On my first Bullnose, a 1982 F150 Explorer, I got it running well, washed and waxed it, and took Janey for a ride. We hadn't gone far and I thought "someone has a fire going as I smell smoke". But there was no one within a couple of miles, and I realized it was us. When I pulled the blower motor there were leaves packed tightly against the resistor, and some of them were charred.

The Bullnose cowls are slotted and let debris in. The Bricknose cowls have small holes and don't. So the trick is to either swap on a Bricknose cowl or glue screen to the bottom of a Bullnose cowl. But only after cleaning things out.

[BLES]

Could someone elaborate on the comments about the resistor and heater motor, please? It sounds like you're referring to a known problem....

Sorry, it's not known to me! Please educate me.

Thanks.

Thanks gentlemen!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Last question, I promise:nabble_smiley_wink:

Are there conversion kits to change a one v pulley system to a two pulley system? My truck has 2 belts attached to the alt. I found one for a TuffStuff alt... do you think it’s interchangeable with a different brand alt? Everything I’m looking at that fits my truck all seems to be one pulley.

You have two driving belts on your alternator???

Most of these trucks have a two sheave pulley on the alternator because the alternator uses a second belt to drive the air pump(s).

Most all alternators use the same diameter (17mm) shaft. Because that's the common bearing size.

My L&L alternator bracket came with a dual sheave pulley, but since I only use a single belt I passed it on to Gary.

You have to pay attention to belt offset (tracking) and how thick the boss is.

While my pulley has been fine for years, the nut doesn't have a lot of purchase on the threaded end of the shaft.

Bill is close, but I would recommend the 130A 3G from a '91-'93 3.8l Taurus.

Better yet to get one that comes with a LRC regulator to avoid 'chirp' on startup.

No 3G comes with a V-belt pulley. They are all polygroove. So you need to swap your existing pulley and shim over to the new alternator, if you go that way.

I think having an 'excited' alternator is a big advantage.

While I'm not arguing with Scott, it is a fact that a one wire alternator not only needs a threshold rpm to kick in, its output is also more dependant on rpm than one which has battery excitation to the field windings.