FuzzFace2 Posted April 14, 2021 Share Posted April 14, 2021 Gary thanks for that information, I see that your scope trace agrees pretty well with the waveform I had found. I would not connect a raw tach signal to the cruise module - too much chance of the smoke escaping. I would be interested in the wave form at the coil +ve terminal as I think it would be a much cleaner approximation of a square wave. Now that makes me think of a really simple possible solution to getting the signal: Even better it would be an isolated signal. I would start with a 10t primary and 50 t secondary with maybe a small capacitor across it to bleed off any ringing and take it from there. Just getting this on file now for when I get to play with it in summer. Bob I am all for "doing your own thing" but is sounds like a lot of work to make a wheel when its already made Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 I am all for "doing your own thing" but is sounds like a lot of work to make a wheel when its already made Dave ---- Dave I agree completely. Problem is I don't have the manual clutch switch parts and also I read of a rather bad experience by AbandonedBronco on the Ford Truck site that occurred when his wife was driving his Bronco. He had also switched from an auto to a manual and had used the automatic cruise control set up - don't have all the details. Anyway long story short the cruise engaged or re-engaged when in neutral and buried the tachometer on his modified 300. No catastrophic failure but possibly some damage was done. So having a little time on my hands during a snowstorm I was just considering other possible configurations that would prevent such a possibility - a rev limiter would be another idea. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryntrz Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Dave I agree completely. Problem is I don't have the manual clutch switch parts and also I read of a rather bad experience by AbandonedBronco on the Ford Truck site that occurred when his wife was driving his Bronco. He had also switched from an auto to a manual and had used the automatic cruise control set up - don't have all the details. Anyway long story short the cruise engaged or re-engaged when in neutral and buried the tachometer on his modified 300. No catastrophic failure but possibly some damage was done. So having a little time on my hands during a snowstorm I was just considering other possible configurations that would prevent such a possibility - a rev limiter would be another idea. Bob Did you end up doing anything for this manual trans swap and cruise? I'm moving from a C6 to a manual and am entertaining keeping the cruise, which would need the 9F645 clutch switch and lead or NC equivalent tied in to the currently jumpered Automatic trans connector at C755. I was curious on what started your adventure and I think I found the post (FTE cruise over rev). Without talking to him, I feel like this is a one-off and could be avoided with his dump valve adjusted appropriately - possibly an oversight when swapping to the manual pedal assembly. None-the-less, I wouldn't want to set myself up for a potential catastrophic failure on my engine with something that could be prevented, especially when I'm considering cruise delete for the restomod anyways. In my opinion, there is no threat when everything is adjusted to spec and the clutch switch is added as if it left the factory like a manual truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Did you end up doing anything for this manual trans swap and cruise? I'm moving from a C6 to a manual and am entertaining keeping the cruise, which would need the 9F645 clutch switch and lead or NC equivalent tied in to the currently jumpered Automatic trans connector at C755. I was curious on what started your adventure and I think I found the post (FTE cruise over rev). Without talking to him, I feel like this is a one-off and could be avoided with his dump valve adjusted appropriately - possibly an oversight when swapping to the manual pedal assembly. None-the-less, I wouldn't want to set myself up for a potential catastrophic failure on my engine with something that could be prevented, especially when I'm considering cruise delete for the restomod anyways. In my opinion, there is no threat when everything is adjusted to spec and the clutch switch is added as if it left the factory like a manual truck. I know that question wasn't meant for me, but I'm running a Ford speed control unit in Big Blue and have no problems. In fact, I frequently kick it off by touching the clutch. However one time I depressed the clutch too slowly and the engine took off. Apparently the way the clutch switch is adjusted there's a spot part way down where the clutch disengages and yet the switch hasn't tripped. It has only happened once, but I should adjust it so it won't happen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryntrz Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 I know that question wasn't meant for me, but I'm running a Ford speed control unit in Big Blue and have no problems. In fact, I frequently kick it off by touching the clutch. However one time I depressed the clutch too slowly and the engine took off. Apparently the way the clutch switch is adjusted there's a spot part way down where the clutch disengages and yet the switch hasn't tripped. It has only happened once, but I should adjust it so it won't happen again. Thanks Gary. I think I'll start to source a clutch switch anyways just to have available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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