1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Gary,

Pennzoil platinum made from natural gas. It is readily available here.

I thought his arguments and methodology quite convincing. Interested to see how it works out in practice.

As I said once I am sure that the starting issue is resolved I will then replace push rods and lifter(s) and report on how it works out using his method.

I don't really doubt his methodology. I've read plenty of his stuff before. But it is the way it is put together that puts me off. An engineer should have enough logic in his head to know that a blog is not a reasonable way to organize things. Searching for things with a Cntl F and then having to wade through dozens of hits isn't on.

Anyway, good luck! Keep us posted.

[nic55kel]

I don't really doubt his methodology. I've read plenty of his stuff before. But it is the way it is put together that puts me off. An engineer should have enough logic in his head to know that a blog is not a reasonable way to organize things. Searching for things with a Cntl F and then having to wade through dozens of hits isn't on.

Anyway, good luck! Keep us posted.

Gary I agree that the blog is a bit annoying to search through.

All I really care about is the data which hopefully checks out.

Further research leads me to believe that new lifters on an old camshaft is less of a faux pas than I thought.

Unfortunately I am not quite ready to test that out yet.

After backing the choke off and having the engine start easily and run as well as it could with the bent pushrods and after several such cold starts I thought that the no-start problem was solved. So all ready to tackle the lifter and pushrod fix I went to start it up for a couple of minutes to make sure the cam had as much of the new pennzoil on it as possible and it would not start.

The only part I haven't changed is the pickup coil. Sort of hoping it was not that as I was not optimistic about it coming apart easily after 40 years. I successfully managed to get the small screws to release but the reluctor wheel is frozen on. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and will let it soak while I cobble together a puller.

My love for this truck is truly being tested.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary I agree that the blog is a bit annoying to search through.

All I really care about is the data which hopefully checks out.

Further research leads me to believe that new lifters on an old camshaft is less of a faux pas than I thought.

Unfortunately I am not quite ready to test that out yet.

After backing the choke off and having the engine start easily and run as well as it could with the bent pushrods and after several such cold starts I thought that the no-start problem was solved. So all ready to tackle the lifter and pushrod fix I went to start it up for a couple of minutes to make sure the cam had as much of the new pennzoil on it as possible and it would not start.

The only part I haven't changed is the pickup coil. Sort of hoping it was not that as I was not optimistic about it coming apart easily after 40 years. I successfully managed to get the small screws to release but the reluctor wheel is frozen on. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and will let it soak while I cobble together a puller.

My love for this truck is truly being tested.

Yes, I understand what you mean about being tested. And, by the way, my experience on the reluctors is that they are fragile. So take it easy prying and pulling.

Good luck!

[StraightSix]

Yes, I understand what you mean about being tested. And, by the way, my experience on the reluctors is that they are fragile. So take it easy prying and pulling.

Good luck!

My reluctor slid off fairly easily, Im sorry that yours is giving you fits. If I recall correctly, I used a wide blade screwdriver (maybe one on each side?) and popper the reluctor off not by prying with the length of the screw driver, but by applying torque to the handle to stand the blade up under the reluctor causing it to pop off. Mine wasnt locked up though, yours appears to have some rust. mine was clean.

I did all of this with the dizzy in my lap, I hate working on stuff while bent over the engine bay.

Good Luck!

EDIT - does youre engine still have all of its factory emissions equipment like functioning EGR? If not, I think this would be a really good time to put in recurve springs. I was playing with this when I flattened out the cam in my 300, so Im not completely finished with the process... but I was doing "seat of the pants dyno drives" and making adjustments to the mechanical advance when my cam died. I was feeling some pretty meaningful changes in the 1200-2500 rpm range based on timing.

https://fordsix.com/threads/distributor-recurve-help.62776/

 

[grumpin]

My reluctor slid off fairly easily, Im sorry that yours is giving you fits. If I recall correctly, I used a wide blade screwdriver (maybe one on each side?) and popper the reluctor off not by prying with the length of the screw driver, but by applying torque to the handle to stand the blade up under the reluctor causing it to pop off. Mine wasnt locked up though, yours appears to have some rust. mine was clean.

I did all of this with the dizzy in my lap, I hate working on stuff while bent over the engine bay.

Good Luck!

EDIT - does youre engine still have all of its factory emissions equipment like functioning EGR? If not, I think this would be a really good time to put in recurve springs. I was playing with this when I flattened out the cam in my 300, so Im not completely finished with the process... but I was doing "seat of the pants dyno drives" and making adjustments to the mechanical advance when my cam died. I was feeling some pretty meaningful changes in the 1200-2500 rpm range based on timing.

https://fordsix.com/threads/distributor-recurve-help.62776/

I used a puller, and once it came up a ways I could pull it off by hand.

One like this, if I remember correctly, I didn’t need a wrench on the puller, twisted it by hand.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7763906?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyvqUhJ-n8wIVj7mWCh3O3AQCEAQYBSABEgIArfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

[nic55kel]

I used a puller, and once it came up a ways I could pull it off by hand.

One like this, if I remember correctly, I didn’t need a wrench on the puller, twisted it by hand.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7763906?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyvqUhJ-n8wIVj7mWCh3O3AQCEAQYBSABEgIArfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Well thanks all for the encouragement.

After letting it soak in penetrating oil for a bit I was able to pry it free with a home-made ladyfoot.

I took great care not to lose the rollpin.

After that easy to replace the pickup plate and put back together.

I lubricated the felt for the mechanical advance.

Put it all back together and still would not start.

Checked for spark = good.

Checked carb for gas = no gas???

Primed carb and started right up - this is a new one, I guess the float needle stuck closed.

Here in Canada the 4.9 did not come with EGR or catalytic converter prior to 1987 in the heavier trucks. One reason I was happy to find this engine that ran so beautifully for 400 miles or so.

Still have to do the work on the valve train but I want to make sure the no start is really fixed before I do that.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Well thanks all for the encouragement.

After letting it soak in penetrating oil for a bit I was able to pry it free with a home-made ladyfoot.

I took great care not to lose the rollpin.

After that easy to replace the pickup plate and put back together.

I lubricated the felt for the mechanical advance.

Put it all back together and still would not start.

Checked for spark = good.

Checked carb for gas = no gas???

Primed carb and started right up - this is a new one, I guess the float needle stuck closed.

Here in Canada the 4.9 did not come with EGR or catalytic converter prior to 1987 in the heavier trucks. One reason I was happy to find this engine that ran so beautifully for 400 miles or so.

Still have to do the work on the valve train but I want to make sure the no start is really fixed before I do that.

Well, at least you got it started. Hopefully the carb's needle won't stick again. Good luck!

[FuzzFace2]

Well, at least you got it started. Hopefully the carb's needle won't stick again. Good luck!

If the truck has been sitting for a bit the fuel in the evaporates in the carb.

This is normal with today's fuel blend and all of us with carbs go thru this.

The last time I used my pickup was a week ago and I have to crank it a lot to fill the carb before it would start and all I wanted to do was back it out of the garage so I could was it for a show tomorrow morning.

Dave ----

[nic55kel]

If the truck has been sitting for a bit the fuel in the evaporates in the carb.

This is normal with today's fuel blend and all of us with carbs go thru this.

The last time I used my pickup was a week ago and I have to crank it a lot to fill the carb before it would start and all I wanted to do was back it out of the garage so I could was it for a show tomorrow morning.

Dave ----

Hi Dave,

I think you are right about today's fuel evaporating more easily, that is probably why my truck was flooding so easily with the choke adjusted for the older spec fuel.

[nic55kel]

Hi Dave,

I think you are right about today's fuel evaporating more easily, that is probably why my truck was flooding so easily with the choke adjusted for the older spec fuel.

Well I found out what the lifter noise is.

It looks like the rocker arm stud has pushed out of the head.

Have to think and research a bit on what to do about this.

The stud is on #3 cylinder so I could just replace the one stud.

Decisions, decisions.

Bent pushrods:

I really like the idea of adjustable valve clearance.

Anyway have to give this some thought.