IDIBronco Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 I want to hear that thing when it loads down striking a 1/4" rod! I have some 1/4 6012 laying around in the cabinet I keep the welding rod in. Next time I fire it up after I get the leads put together I will attempt a video and try to get it embedded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 I have some 1/4 6012 laying around in the cabinet I keep the welding rod in. Next time I fire it up after I get the leads put together I will attempt a video and try to get it embedded. In other topics... The welding truck when I first got it started ran terribly rough. Easy... I could hear a vacuum leak. I plugged the leak and it ran nice and smooth. Now the vacuum lines throughout the engine compartment basically break every time you touch them. I am really in no mood to repair and replace them if I do not need them. It looks like a lot more stuff on the motor then what it really needs. I have no experience with this style carb. Is it a terrible idea to delete all the vacuum related switches, actuators on carb, egr stuff, and just keep the distributor advance and brake booster lines? I figure I will need to adjust the carb some maybe the distributor timing, but haven't dove into any information on the carb to figure that out yet. Initially, I thought of making the truck strictly an "on the property" vehicle and considered a h.e.i. style distributor and a carb swap. I always liked the old Ford 2 barrel carbs. I need to do some research before I give up on any of the parts though. It ran and idled nice for a few starts before the lines started breaking all over. Just weighing my options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 In other topics... The welding truck when I first got it started ran terribly rough. Easy... I could hear a vacuum leak. I plugged the leak and it ran nice and smooth. Now the vacuum lines throughout the engine compartment basically break every time you touch them. I am really in no mood to repair and replace them if I do not need them. It looks like a lot more stuff on the motor then what it really needs. I have no experience with this style carb. Is it a terrible idea to delete all the vacuum related switches, actuators on carb, egr stuff, and just keep the distributor advance and brake booster lines? I figure I will need to adjust the carb some maybe the distributor timing, but haven't dove into any information on the carb to figure that out yet. Initially, I thought of making the truck strictly an "on the property" vehicle and considered a h.e.i. style distributor and a carb swap. I always liked the old Ford 2 barrel carbs. I need to do some research before I give up on any of the parts though. It ran and idled nice for a few starts before the lines started breaking all over. Just weighing my options. You can make an '81 run nicely w/o all the emissions stuff, but it takes a bit of work. Most of what you have should be EGR, and that's controlled by a bunch of those vacuum doohickeys. So to keep it you'll need to at least replace the vacuum lines if they are broken or breaking. If you want to delete the EGR you should consider having the distributor recurved as it has a curve in it expecting there to be exhaust gas in the mix at part throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 You can make an '81 run nicely w/o all the emissions stuff, but it takes a bit of work. Most of what you have should be EGR, and that's controlled by a bunch of those vacuum doohickeys. So to keep it you'll need to at least replace the vacuum lines if they are broken or breaking. If you want to delete the EGR you should consider having the distributor recurved as it has a curve in it expecting there to be exhaust gas in the mix at part throttle. I think I will stick with the duraspark. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of cleaning out everything under the hood not needed and just running factory stuff if I can. Are there some 300 I6 tuning experts that can give me a good idea where to start on recurve springs and carb tuning. I know there is a matching engine in the 1981 parts van out back I can rob parts from. Seems to me there where 2 different springs in the duraspark, but I haven't been inside a 300 distributor yet. Would swapping the lighter spring in from the parts van be enough to help or is it worth it to just order an advance curve spring kit? I have no real idea where to start with the carb. I have lightly read over the recommendations in the documentation, but that will take a reread while looking at the carb to make sure the information sinks in... The welding truck has the cable operated heater. The only vacuum requirements are the vacuum brakes and the timing advance. The more I am under the hood of the truck the more it looks like I should keep it. I love my IDI's, but I can pretty much sit under the hood and change spark plugs. There should be no vacuum garbage left, so it will be a very simple and easy to maintain truck. And if I get it to run nice and clean everything up under the hood it "should" sell better (should the decision be made). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 I think I will stick with the duraspark. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of cleaning out everything under the hood not needed and just running factory stuff if I can. Are there some 300 I6 tuning experts that can give me a good idea where to start on recurve springs and carb tuning. I know there is a matching engine in the 1981 parts van out back I can rob parts from. Seems to me there where 2 different springs in the duraspark, but I haven't been inside a 300 distributor yet. Would swapping the lighter spring in from the parts van be enough to help or is it worth it to just order an advance curve spring kit? I have no real idea where to start with the carb. I have lightly read over the recommendations in the documentation, but that will take a reread while looking at the carb to make sure the information sinks in... The welding truck has the cable operated heater. The only vacuum requirements are the vacuum brakes and the timing advance. The more I am under the hood of the truck the more it looks like I should keep it. I love my IDI's, but I can pretty much sit under the hood and change spark plugs. There should be no vacuum garbage left, so it will be a very simple and easy to maintain truck. And if I get it to run nice and clean everything up under the hood it "should" sell better (should the decision be made). I don't qualify as an expert, but David/1986F150six posted this recently: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Air-Fuel-Ratio-gauge-and-now-have-question-tp91060p92971.html. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 I think I will stick with the duraspark. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of cleaning out everything under the hood not needed and just running factory stuff if I can. Are there some 300 I6 tuning experts that can give me a good idea where to start on recurve springs and carb tuning. I know there is a matching engine in the 1981 parts van out back I can rob parts from. Seems to me there where 2 different springs in the duraspark, but I haven't been inside a 300 distributor yet. Would swapping the lighter spring in from the parts van be enough to help or is it worth it to just order an advance curve spring kit? I have no real idea where to start with the carb. I have lightly read over the recommendations in the documentation, but that will take a reread while looking at the carb to make sure the information sinks in... The welding truck has the cable operated heater. The only vacuum requirements are the vacuum brakes and the timing advance. The more I am under the hood of the truck the more it looks like I should keep it. I love my IDI's, but I can pretty much sit under the hood and change spark plugs. There should be no vacuum garbage left, so it will be a very simple and easy to maintain truck. And if I get it to run nice and clean everything up under the hood it "should" sell better (should the decision be made). Remember, there are also two slots in the mechanical advance plate (depending on which side is up) I suggest to everyone that they review Scott's DSII Recurve instructions. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html And the Crane Cams adjustable vacuum advance directions (pdf available on Jeg's website) https://www.jegs.com/i/Crane-Cams/271/99607-1/10002/-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 7, 2021 Author Share Posted April 7, 2021 Remember, there are also two slots in the mechanical advance plate (depending on which side is up) I suggest to everyone that they review Scott's DSII Recurve instructions. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html And the Crane Cams adjustable vacuum advance directions (pdf available on Jeg's website) https://www.jegs.com/i/Crane-Cams/271/99607-1/10002/-1 Thank you for the info. Searching the internet is nice and all, but you get a small amount of useful and a pile of crap... Next question Does the duraspark box have oil that can leak out? Upon attempted restarting the motor, the motor started more and more difficult. Occasional backfire. I read the situation as a spark problem, but haven't got into testing much yet. I figured I would ask a possible dumb question to rule that out. I suspect I will take the duraspark from the van out and connect it to the truck to test. I am off to run past my father's now, he has a stash of parts and I suspect there is a 300 industrial motor available without egr crap to get a carb spacer from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Thank you for the info. Searching the internet is nice and all, but you get a small amount of useful and a pile of crap... Next question Does the duraspark box have oil that can leak out? Upon attempted restarting the motor, the motor started more and more difficult. Occasional backfire. I read the situation as a spark problem, but haven't got into testing much yet. I figured I would ask a possible dumb question to rule that out. I suspect I will take the duraspark from the van out and connect it to the truck to test. I am off to run past my father's now, he has a stash of parts and I suspect there is a 300 industrial motor available without egr crap to get a carb spacer from. Looks like the potting on that ds2 box is toast. I dont know that the potting melting out guarantees failure, but it sure seems likely and its easy to check if you have other boxes lying around. Good luck desmogging! Im curious to see what shakes out with your dizzy recurve. I may should consider doing the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Looks like the potting on that ds2 box is toast. I dont know that the potting melting out guarantees failure, but it sure seems likely and its easy to check if you have other boxes lying around. Good luck desmogging! Im curious to see what shakes out with your dizzy recurve. I may should consider doing the same. Also, I think I remember something about a jeep carb spacer for a I bbl you could use. Sorry, I dont know part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Looks like the potting on that ds2 box is toast. I dont know that the potting melting out guarantees failure, but it sure seems likely and its easy to check if you have other boxes lying around. Good luck desmogging! Im curious to see what shakes out with your dizzy recurve. I may should consider doing the same. The melted epoxy is a symptom, not a cause. The transistor in there is toast. That could be caused by a bad coil, or it could simply be old age. Gary and I are using the NAPA Echlin TP-40 module. It has functional spark retard and seems to be holding up for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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