ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 FINALLY!!!The motor, after 2 adjustments retarding the timing, coughed once and spun the motor the right direction. Played with the choke settings some and it fired up... Idle was set way too high. I backed it down a few times and it just sounds better and better. Running smoother than it did when it first started. Must have been the vacuum leaks making the idle so rough before. I am going to dig out the timing light and look up the base timing specs and see if I can do any good adjusting the timing. Very happy again.I'm glad to hear it's not kickng back anymore. :nabble_smiley_good:Base timing is probably going to be 8° BTDC @ 650 rpm in neutral with the vacuum advance clamped off or disconnected.I'm interested to hear why the starter relay is being triggered in run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 I didn't actually use the timing light since I need to recurve still, but I did tune it roughly by ear. Then adjusted the carb just a tad richer then I had it at. Now it throttles up quick and rpms drop off pretty fast too. Close enough for now to move forward on to other aspects. I think I will pull the throttle bracket and try my hand at shortening it. I just made a new choke exhaust tube out of some break line and tapered the end to fit the manifold with some light taps with a wrench. Need to pull it off and reinstall the heat wrap at some point. I also need to reread about adjusting the ignition switch. I read through the ingition switch adjusting, attempted the adjustment, and got the same result. Then I ran to get a different known operational switch... Same issue. Just to be completely sure I drove to town and got a brand spanking new switch and the problem remains. The problem clearly is something other then the ignition switch so now I guess I need to investigate what to check and how to resolve the condition. Condition: Turn key to run, starter cranks. It is a strange issue. I would appreciate any input on what to check next. Back to scratching my head. The good news is the truck with trying key starts right up, but have to shut it down so it doesn't crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 I read through the ingition switch adjusting, attempted the adjustment, and got the same result. Then I ran to get a different known operational switch... Same issue. Just to be completely sure I drove to town and got a brand spanking new switch and the problem remains. The problem clearly is something other then the ignition switch so now I guess I need to investigate what to check and how to resolve the condition. Condition: Turn key to run, starter cranks. It is a strange issue. I would appreciate any input on what to check next. Back to scratching my head. The good news is the truck with trying key starts right up, but have to shut it down so it doesn't crank. Power is somehow getting to the Red/Light Blue wire going to the starter relay when you turn the key to run. As shown below, there are only supposed to be three connections to that wire: ignition switch, which is supposed to be the source of the power; ignition module which is a consumer of the power; and the relay, which is also a consumer. I'd pull the connection at the ignition module and see if that makes a difference. If it still cranks in Run I'd trace the R/LB wires and see where something else is connected to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 I'm glad to hear it's not kickng back anymore. ME TOO!!! I can "easily" start it up now. I simply crank the distributor maybe 8 or 10 degrees, turn the key on, walk to the solenoid and touch the ignition energizing wire to where it belongs and it starts up without touching anything. Then I turn the distributor back to the witness scribe in the accumulated dust and it settles in to a nice rpm. Blip the throttle and it is back down on low idle and the choke is then fully open. Just need to figure out this start/ignition issue and I think the truck could be back on the road. Brakes work, clutch is working, most the lights work now. Slowly overcoming the issues. Hopefully it isn't on the road to becoming parts, but time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Power is somehow getting to the Red/Light Blue wire going to the starter relay when you turn the key to run. As shown below, there are only supposed to be three connections to that wire: ignition switch, which is supposed to be the source of the power; ignition module which is a consumer of the power; and the relay, which is also a consumer. I'd pull the connection at the ignition module and see if that makes a difference. If it still cranks in Run I'd trace the R/LB wires and see where something else is connected to them. I still think it has to do with the plug at the module. We're already aware that someone has gotten 'creative' with this truck in the past. If the colors don't reverse at the plug (or the plug has been unpinned and the colors are reversed at the plug) Then the starter relay is going to be powered in run. It would also explain why the ignition module isn't retarding in start, if it is retarded all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 Power is somehow getting to the Red/Light Blue wire going to the starter relay when you turn the key to run. As shown below, there are only supposed to be three connections to that wire: ignition switch, which is supposed to be the source of the power; ignition module which is a consumer of the power; and the relay, which is also a consumer. I'd pull the connection at the ignition module and see if that makes a difference. If it still cranks in Run I'd trace the R/LB wires and see where something else is connected to them. Gary... I am officially impressed and appreciative. Unhook the new Napa echlin ignition box. Hook up solenoid wire and turn key to run... Nothing. Go to start and it cranks. So I hooked up the original duraspark box with the melted out epoxy and it acts right and even cranks and starts right up without messing with the distributor. The issue is the ignition box I got. Now I need to figure out what I am supposed to get. I want to go ahead and put the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 I still think it has to do with the plug at the module. We're already aware that someone has gotten 'creative' with this truck in the past. If the colors don't reverse at the plug (or the plug has been unpinned and the colors are reversed at the plug) Then the starter relay is going to be powered in run. It would also explain why the ignition module isn't retarding in start, if it is retarded all the time. The factory harness to the echlin Napa box flips colors so does the factory duraspark box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Gary... I am officially impressed and appreciative. Unhook the new Napa echlin ignition box. Hook up solenoid wire and turn key to run... Nothing. Go to start and it cranks. So I hooked up the original duraspark box with the melted out epoxy and it acts right and even cranks and starts right up without messing with the distributor. The issue is the ignition box I got. Now I need to figure out what I am supposed to get. I want to go ahead and put the new one. Obviously the DuraSpark module is defective. Are you using the same TP-40 module that Gary and I are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Gary... I am officially impressed and appreciative. Unhook the new Napa echlin ignition box. Hook up solenoid wire and turn key to run... Nothing. Go to start and it cranks. So I hooked up the original duraspark box with the melted out epoxy and it acts right and even cranks and starts right up without messing with the distributor. The issue is the ignition box I got. Now I need to figure out what I am supposed to get. I want to go ahead and put the new one. Dad used to say "I'd rather be lucky than good." Glad you found it. As Jim said, obviously the module is defective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 Obviously the DuraSpark module is defective. Are you using the same TP-40 module that Gary and I are? It is a Napa echlin TP-40. I made a quick run to town and back and the guy behind the counter swapped it out with the one they had on the shelf no questions asked. I came home, installed the new box, and everything is once again right in my world... A big sigh of relief. Now all that is left is everything, but I can go bolt up the steering column fully and put the dash together. You hit the key and it fires right up, goes to high idle, blip the throttle, and it is down on low idle and sounds so much better... Thanks to BOTH Jim and Gary. You guys were on the point with the issue. Luck or skill I will take either. So now I suppose the next order of business is an additional oil change since I can start and run it. I want to circulate the seafoam for another hour in the oil before changing the oil on the truck. I have the filter and oil here (perhaps tomorrow I can get that done). Then find a "good" used tire for the front that keeps going flat. Not sure what after that yet. Honestly I have been incredibly lucky in this gamble of purchases. Welder was locked up and unknown... Freed and fixed up. Truck had sat for maybe 20 years... Got it going now. Compressor is functional. Two decent trailers, one needs a wood deck, but I am in good shape. I think I am invested just under $1800 in everything now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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