Another round of projects.

[ArdWrknTrk]

How many 1/2" bolts do you have holding the welder on? I think I read that there are two, and that doesn't seem enough for the welder.

Do you have any idea the tension, shear or clamping force of a 1/2-13 grade 5 bolt?

And if you want more clamp, just go to 12-20

[IDIBronco]

I'm into overkill, so I'd probably go with more bolts and clamps. But 4 should work.

I pulled the starter off and the damage was right past the starter location. So it was easy to see, but I hand cranked the engine around to verify I was looking at the problem. The issue was substantially less than I had anticipated. I know it is probably hard to discern from the picture, but I am questioning if that is my issue now. Not sure I could make the adjustment work to move the starter into the ring gear unless I file the outer locating ring that inserts into the bell housing 1/8 inch or so. Would have to oval the lower bolt and clearence the locating nose 1/2 way around on the motor side.

Can the damaged teeth create enough side thrust to kick the starter Bendix out? The last time I dealt with a ring gear teeth issue the teeth where fully knocked off in an area. This looks incredibly minor compared to what I had previously...

I pulled the starter, snapped a few pictures, broke the power wire bolt trying to remove it from the starter. Decided the starting issue was not something I could just quickly rectified so I decided to do the most productive thing I could accomplish... Take a break.

Pulled the top off the bronco, and drove to town to get some fuel. It is sunny with not hardly a cloud anywhere, and 75 degrees. Figured it was a good time to pull the top off. Plus the local gas chain has a rewards program that my wife gets her morning soda with, but it builds points up to get fuel cheap. Since the bronco has the only tank in the family over the 20 gallons maximum benefit, it gets the benefits the most.

 

[IDIBronco]

Do you have any idea the tension, shear or clamping force of a 1/2-13 grade 5 bolt?

And if you want more clamp, just go to 12-20

1/2" x 13

Roughly per bolt.

Clamping force 9000lbs at 75 ft*lbs

Tensile and shear strength in single shear I believe are over 16,000lbs. I had to look the actual shear area.

But I am pretty rusty on those calculations...

Although I would have to look closely at the grid of the grating on the deck and make a few measurements and calculations to see if the grate would tear out first (very likely).

I am very inclined to think that the hold down is in the "good enough" category.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have any idea the tension, shear or clamping force of a 1/2-13 grade 5 bolt?

And if you want more clamp, just go to 12-20

1/2" x 13

Roughly per bolt.

Clamping force 9000lbs at 75 ft*lbs

Tensile and shear strength in single shear I believe are over 16,000lbs. I had to look the actual shear area.

But I am pretty rusty on those calculations...

Although I would have to look closely at the grid of the grating on the deck and make a few measurements and calculations to see if the grate would tear out first (very likely).

I am very inclined to think that the hold down is in the "good enough" category.

That was a rhetorical question directed at Gary. our master of "good enough is never enough.

"

I would have said (off the top of my head) 75 ftlbs, 10k clamp and 17,000 UTS

While I understand 1/2 MV2, reality is that you're going to rip the 'foot' off that welder long before any one of those clamps give up.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I pulled the starter off and the damage was right past the starter location. So it was easy to see, but I hand cranked the engine around to verify I was looking at the problem. The issue was substantially less than I had anticipated. I know it is probably hard to discern from the picture, but I am questioning if that is my issue now. Not sure I could make the adjustment work to move the starter into the ring gear unless I file the outer locating ring that inserts into the bell housing 1/8 inch or so. Would have to oval the lower bolt and clearence the locating nose 1/2 way around on the motor side.

Can the damaged teeth create enough side thrust to kick the starter Bendix out? The last time I dealt with a ring gear teeth issue the teeth where fully knocked off in an area. This looks incredibly minor compared to what I had previously...

I pulled the starter, snapped a few pictures, broke the power wire bolt trying to remove it from the starter. Decided the starting issue was not something I could just quickly rectified so I decided to do the most productive thing I could accomplish... Take a break.

Pulled the top off the bronco, and drove to town to get some fuel. It is sunny with not hardly a cloud anywhere, and 75 degrees. Figured it was a good time to pull the top off. Plus the local gas chain has a rewards program that my wife gets her morning soda with, but it builds points up to get fuel cheap. Since the bronco has the only tank in the family over the 20 gallons maximum benefit, it gets the benefits the most.

A penny a gallon?!?!

You should check the nosecone bearing in the starter itself.

It doesn't take much radial slop before the involute curve of the gear teeth become a camming motion rather than a driving motion.

Yes, I did take a file to the outside (centering) radius of my starter.

But that 5 minute investment has had me driving for well more than a year without having to pull my engine to swap in the new ring gear I have....

I also got a needle bearing for the nosecone.

It seems to deal better than the plain bushing it replaced.

[Gary Lewis]

That was a rhetorical question directed at Gary. our master of "good enough is never enough.

"

I would have said (off the top of my head) 75 ftlbs, 10k clamp and 17,000 UTS

While I understand 1/2 MV2, reality is that you're going to rip the 'foot' off that welder long before any one of those clamps give up.

Yes, that was my point. Not that the bolts themselves won't take it, but will the grate?

And yes, I am the master of "more is better".

[ArdWrknTrk]

That was a rhetorical question directed at Gary. our master of "good enough is never enough.

"

I would have said (off the top of my head) 75 ftlbs, 10k clamp and 17,000 UTS

While I understand 1/2 MV2, reality is that you're going to rip the 'foot' off that welder long before any one of those clamps give up.

Yes, that was my point. Not that the bolts themselves won't take it, but will the grate?

And yes, I am the master of "more is better".

It looks the same as cat walk grate.

I don't think it would fail before the lip being pinched does.

[IDIBronco]

Do you have any idea the tension, shear or clamping force of a 1/2-13 grade 5 bolt?

And if you want more clamp, just go to 12-20

1/2" x 13

Roughly per bolt.

Clamping force 9000lbs at 75 ft*lbs

Tensile and shear strength in single shear I believe are over 16,000lbs. I had to look the actual shear area.

But I am pretty rusty on those calculations...

Although I would have to look closely at the grid of the grating on the deck and make a few measurements and calculations to see if the grate would tear out first (very likely).

I am very inclined to think that the hold down is in the "good enough" category.

So I tried the starter modifications and it does crank a bit better, but typically only spins around a bit then kicks out. It is better than it had been. I need to get my little needle file set out to clean the burrs on the teeth a bit more to see if it improves.

The condition I currently have trying to start...

The motor cranks, and the engine coughs a bit. It catches a cylinder and fires a bit too early and spins the motor backwards. It typically fires 2 cylinders like this and comes to a stop, sometimes only one. I put a new ignition box on and coil, but everything acts the same. A head scratcher. I had it starting and idling pretty well before changing carbs. I cannot imagine I changed stuff around so much that the timing would act so different... Maybe I am missing something obvious.

How quickly does vacuum build on an engine on cranking to adjust distributor via the vacuum lines? The advance and retard sides of the distributor both have a vacuum line. Do these both just need to go to the vacuum tree or is there a different location they should be hooked to? The vacuum lines were disintigrated so badly before I took stuff loose it was hard to tell where everything actually belonged.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So I tried the starter modifications and it does crank a bit better, but typically only spins around a bit then kicks out. It is better than it had been. I need to get my little needle file set out to clean the burrs on the teeth a bit more to see if it improves.

The condition I currently have trying to start...

The motor cranks, and the engine coughs a bit. It catches a cylinder and fires a bit too early and spins the motor backwards. It typically fires 2 cylinders like this and comes to a stop, sometimes only one. I put a new ignition box on and coil, but everything acts the same. A head scratcher. I had it starting and idling pretty well before changing carbs. I cannot imagine I changed stuff around so much that the timing would act so different... Maybe I am missing something obvious.

How quickly does vacuum build on an engine on cranking to adjust distributor via the vacuum lines? The advance and retard sides of the distributor both have a vacuum line. Do these both just need to go to the vacuum tree or is there a different location they should be hooked to? The vacuum lines were disintigrated so badly before I took stuff loose it was hard to tell where everything actually belonged.

I know little about dual vacuum distributors.

Perhaps Bill has some advice?

[IDIBronco]

I know little about dual vacuum distributors.

Perhaps Bill has some advice?

For fun...

Theoretically I could chop the bed down to fit the bronco frame... Even could haul the welder in between the boxes, but not much extra room.

Just threw together a picture with paint.