460 Non EEC Distributor

[grumpin]

Bill - See what you think: Documentation/Electrical/Distributors and the Specifications tab. I left off the Alldata, but can add it if you think we should.

That’s why I think of this as a heads up if the parts aren’t right. And I could be wrong but can’t figure out where. Read through the installation again in the factory manual, nothing I missed there.

Bill, if Darth’s is long gone what did you put in there?

I see where you added that Gary. Interesting on the minimum gap, as there is no way to adjust it.

Jim, yes Duraspark II, didn’t think of clarifying that.

[85lebaront2]

That’s why I think of this as a heads up if the parts aren’t right. And I could be wrong but can’t figure out where. Read through the installation again in the factory manual, nothing I missed there.

Bill, if Darth’s is long gone what did you put in there?

I see where you added that Gary. Interesting on the minimum gap, as there is no way to adjust it.

Jim, yes Duraspark II, didn’t think of clarifying that.

Since Darth is now running MAF/SEFI using an EEC-V system, he has a 1990 (at present) TFI-IV distributor and has the remote mounted Black TFI module on the left inner fender. This is the 1995-97 distributor for the new engine.

[grumpin]

Since Darth is now running MAF/SEFI using an EEC-V system, he has a 1990 (at present) TFI-IV distributor and has the remote mounted Black TFI module on the left inner fender. This is the 1995-97 distributor for the new engine.

Ah yes, now I remember.

What do you Bill and others think of a replacement dizzy?

Thinking Pertronix with one of their coils.

Or an HEI just to have an all in one.

[grumpin]

Ah yes, now I remember.

What do you Bill and others think of a replacement dizzy?

Thinking Pertronix with one of their coils.

Or an HEI just to have an all in one.

Here’s the culprit after I pulled it.

The wire is exposed at the dizzy entrance, note the tie wrap to mark the wire for reinstallation.

After I razor bladed into it.

Cleaned and ready for soldering. Still have to prep the connector wires.

A good reading!

It’s in and running good. Hoping the new one from FPG is good. I don’t completely trust this repair. Done more for what’s left of my sanity!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here’s the culprit after I pulled it.

The wire is exposed at the dizzy entrance, note the tie wrap to mark the wire for reinstallation.

After I razor bladed into it.

Cleaned and ready for soldering. Still have to prep the connector wires.

A good reading!

It’s in and running good. Hoping the new one from FPG is good. I don’t completely trust this repair. Done more for what’s left of my sanity!

Dane, in your first picture, was it that chewed up?!?

Or had you started dissecting it with a razor?

I was just pointing out that the pictures replacement has a DSII connector.

EEC dizzys won't plug up to the harness.

So I can't see you getting another type (PIP for example)

I'm glad your truck is back to normal, and hope an OEM part actually functions as it is supposed to.

[grumpin]

Dane, in your first picture, was it that chewed up?!?

Or had you started dissecting it with a razor?

I was just pointing out that the pictures replacement has a DSII connector.

EEC dizzys won't plug up to the harness.

So I can't see you getting another type (PIP for example)

I'm glad your truck is back to normal, and hope an OEM part actually functions as it is supposed to.

Good eye Jim! I forgot that I started taking pictures after I razored it some. So no, it wasn’t that chewed up.

One wire broken, the other hanging on by a few strands, and some corrosion.

I’m going to go ahead and drive it. I’m picking up a drill press tonight at the right price, free!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good eye Jim! I forgot that I started taking pictures after I razored it some. So no, it wasn’t that chewed up.

One wire broken, the other hanging on by a few strands, and some corrosion.

I’m going to go ahead and drive it. I’m picking up a drill press tonight at the right price, free!

And that's the upside to having a pickup and being everybody's friend on moving day!

My 17" Jet drill press has what I'd consider unacceptable run out at the chuck.

But it was a gift from a girlfriend 30 years ago.

I was a fool to let her slip by!

[85lebaront2]

Ah yes, now I remember.

What do you Bill and others think of a replacement dizzy?

Thinking Pertronix with one of their coils.

Or an HEI just to have an all in one.

I am not a huge fan of French distributors, especially the ones made of Chineseum. First item, a full GM style HEI is a current hog, typically they have an 8 or 10 ga wire feeding them. To run one properly in a vehicle that wasn't built with one (even an older Chevy) needs a relay to feed power directly from the battery. If you are worried about a good quality replacement for a DS-II system, there really isn't a cheap substitute that does things like cranking retard to ease in starting. If you have a good reliable pickup coil in your distributor, there is a way you can use an HEI type ignition and keep a stock appearance except for the coil. The actual GM 4 pin HEI module doesn't draw the extreme current it is the coil that does it.

GM built a smaller system for their small pickups (S10 & S15) that used an external E-core coil (like a Ford TFI coil) and used a variation of the 4 pin module that mounted in the distributor base. The actual unit looks very similar to an early Corvair distributor with a top mounted mechanical advance. You can do what Lucas did with their "Constant Energy" system, a standard large base GM HEI module was installed in an aluminum box for a heat sink and installed under a standard Lucas electronic ignition coil. They triggered it with what looks like a 70s Chrysler electronic ignition distributor, I would venture a guess that a DS-II distributor would probably trigger it also. You would need to modify the power feed to the coil as the 5.0L EFI engines did, just basically bypass the resistance wire by tapping both ends of it for power. The module would hide nicely inside a junk DS-II module as a heat sink.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I am not a huge fan of French distributors, especially the ones made of Chineseum. First item, a full GM style HEI is a current hog, typically they have an 8 or 10 ga wire feeding them. To run one properly in a vehicle that wasn't built with one (even an older Chevy) needs a relay to feed power directly from the battery. If you are worried about a good quality replacement for a DS-II system, there really isn't a cheap substitute that does things like cranking retard to ease in starting. If you have a good reliable pickup coil in your distributor, there is a way you can use an HEI type ignition and keep a stock appearance except for the coil. The actual GM 4 pin HEI module doesn't draw the extreme current it is the coil that does it.

GM built a smaller system for their small pickups (S10 & S15) that used an external E-core coil (like a Ford TFI coil) and used a variation of the 4 pin module that mounted in the distributor base. The actual unit looks very similar to an early Corvair distributor with a top mounted mechanical advance. You can do what Lucas did with their "Constant Energy" system, a standard large base GM HEI module was installed in an aluminum box for a heat sink and installed under a standard Lucas electronic ignition coil. They triggered it with what looks like a 70s Chrysler electronic ignition distributor, I would venture a guess that a DS-II distributor would probably trigger it also. You would need to modify the power feed to the coil as the 5.0L EFI engines did, just basically bypass the resistance wire by tapping both ends of it for power. The module would hide nicely inside a junk DS-II module as a heat sink.

Toronado HEI's were popular with with the boosted crowd because they offered triggered timing retard.

If I was going HEI, or faking it with a GM module inside the DSII shell (A'la cheap as dirt ignitions) that's the way I think I'd go.

[grumpin]

I am not a huge fan of French distributors, especially the ones made of Chineseum. First item, a full GM style HEI is a current hog, typically they have an 8 or 10 ga wire feeding them. To run one properly in a vehicle that wasn't built with one (even an older Chevy) needs a relay to feed power directly from the battery. If you are worried about a good quality replacement for a DS-II system, there really isn't a cheap substitute that does things like cranking retard to ease in starting. If you have a good reliable pickup coil in your distributor, there is a way you can use an HEI type ignition and keep a stock appearance except for the coil. The actual GM 4 pin HEI module doesn't draw the extreme current it is the coil that does it.

GM built a smaller system for their small pickups (S10 & S15) that used an external E-core coil (like a Ford TFI coil) and used a variation of the 4 pin module that mounted in the distributor base. The actual unit looks very similar to an early Corvair distributor with a top mounted mechanical advance. You can do what Lucas did with their "Constant Energy" system, a standard large base GM HEI module was installed in an aluminum box for a heat sink and installed under a standard Lucas electronic ignition coil. They triggered it with what looks like a 70s Chrysler electronic ignition distributor, I would venture a guess that a DS-II distributor would probably trigger it also. You would need to modify the power feed to the coil as the 5.0L EFI engines did, just basically bypass the resistance wire by tapping both ends of it for power. The module would hide nicely inside a junk DS-II module as a heat sink.

Ok, I saw that smaller GM system the other day as I was looking into a 1992 S10. And then wondered if GM put that Vortec 4.3 in the 1996 and later S10’s. Which they did. That ought to be a nice little pick up.

If I did go HEI I figured I’d use a continuous duty solenoid to power it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ss608?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5CDBhB9EiwA0w6sLTnieJUaUiMqBI2_22p_uqUjJLWlEYghOeBRovlI8uQa8zr4IaqsKhoCz1IQAvD_BwE

As I said I’m really hoping this stator works because I like the Duraspark II.

I did go ahead and drive it this evening. Running real good. Got my drill press!

Edit: one other thing I’m concerned about is the size of an HEI, I will be using my stock air cleaner.