grumpin Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 I was cleaning and flushing my coolant system and had drove the truck for around 2 1/2 hours , did a rinse then serviced it with coolant. All looked good, so I was going to run some errands and left the truck running to go in the house and get some stuff. As I started up the stairs the truck died. Go try to start it and no go. I wasn’t getting consistent readings on the coil and I’ve had coils go bad before so I went and got one. Wasn’t it. Started checking things with the Haynes manual, could find any in the Ford manuals and it referred me to the Emissions and Diagnostic manual which I don’t have. And the Haynes is good in this situation. At the four wire connector I had no resistance in the stator assembly. Pulled the distributor cap and there it is, a broken wire on the stator. Go to NAPA and get a stator. Couldn’t get it to run right. Finally seemed to be running ok, but wouldn’t start because the timing was too advanced. Ok, called it a day. Next day, I’m thinking the distributor has to be off a tooth. After a few attempts, same thing. Got it to run with the idle way up. So, I thought something else is wrong too. Started the checks again. Everything checks good. Get to the stator and no resistance, no continuity. Wow! Bad part. Go back to NAPA and they had the next down from Echlin. Took it home and no resistance. Take it back and take my meter. Go to the Zone and they have one I try at the counter, same thing. I’m assuming these are made for EEC systems that have a way to trigger it. Checked my original, which I believe is the one put on at the factory, and I’ve got around 800 ohms, should be 400 to 1200. Found the part number here and found one on Ford Parts Giant. Thought I’d go to our local dealer and she said it was discontinued, after I gave her the part number. Ordered the one from Parts Giant. Hopefully it’s within specs. Or I may have to put in a different distributor. A Pertronix, MSD or (shudder) an HEI. So a warning, this part may not be available or properly speced for a non EEC engine. Thinking about tearing into my old stator to see if I can make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 That's quite a story, Dane. Hard to believe they don't stock the right stator. From the MPC listing below from our page at Documentation/Electrical/Distributors shows it as D4PZ 12A112-A. And I find lots of them via a Google search. But I hope your new one fixes the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 That's quite a story, Dane. Hard to believe they don't stock the right stator. From the MPC listing below from our page at Documentation/Electrical/Distributors shows it as D4PZ 12A112-A. And I find lots of them via a Google search. But I hope your new one fixes the problem. Thanks Gary! That’s how I found the one at Ford Parts Giant. And of course the part number here on your site. It frustrates me as I use this truck and I’m going to need it in the future. Fortunately I have time to fix it. I think it says a lot for this ignition system, because I’m sure the stator and coil were OEM. And if I have to I’ll find another aftermarket distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Thanks Gary! That’s how I found the one at Ford Parts Giant. And of course the part number here on your site. It frustrates me as I use this truck and I’m going to need it in the future. Fortunately I have time to fix it. I think it says a lot for this ignition system, because I’m sure the stator and coil were OEM. And if I have to I’ll find another aftermarket distributor. I assume by 'stator' you mean the reluctor pickup on the DSII dizzy backing plate? I have had one go out before. Are you sure the gap is right and the shaft isn't wobbling, Dane? Do you have a meter or O-scope that can read it with the engine cranking over? It doesn't take much to trigger the module. Do you have a tach dash? Does it show anything at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 I assume by 'stator' you mean the reluctor pickup on the DSII dizzy backing plate? I have had one go out before. Are you sure the gap is right and the shaft isn't wobbling, Dane? Do you have a meter or O-scope that can read it with the engine cranking over? It doesn't take much to trigger the module. Do you have a tach dash? Does it show anything at all? Yes the pickup. Here, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHMP700?impressionRank=2&searchCategory=c1.s1&searchIndex=Universal Shaft seems fine, no gap to set it is held on the shaft by a ring, moved by the vacuum advance. As I said I can make it run with a lot of advance or turning up the idle speed. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/1986-bronco-f150-350-evtmjpg-page28-wrong_orig.jpg There should be 400 to 1200 ohms on O/Y and P/LB. I get that on my original with the broken wire. I do not get anything on the parts store ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Yes the pickup. Here, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHMP700?impressionRank=2&searchCategory=c1.s1&searchIndex=Universal Shaft seems fine, no gap to set it is held on the shaft by a ring, moved by the vacuum advance. As I said I can make it run with a lot of advance or turning up the idle speed. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/1986-bronco-f150-350-evtmjpg-page28-wrong_orig.jpg There should be 400 to 1200 ohms on O/Y and P/LB. I get that on my original with the broken wire. I do not get anything on the parts store ones. Perhaps I'm misremembering having to check the air gap when I replaced mine because of a broken magnet. I know there is a spec. And, I do know the spec for the winding in the pickup. It's crazy that three of these things were bad off the shelf. Not sure what idle speed or ignition advance would have to do with getting it to stay running... Are you certain the damper hasn't slipped? (Did you check TDC as marked is actually TDC #1?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 Perhaps I'm misremembering having to check the air gap when I replaced mine because of a broken magnet. I know there is a spec. And, I do know the spec for the winding in the pickup. It's crazy that three of these things were bad off the shelf. Not sure what idle speed or ignition advance would have to do with getting it to stay running... Are you certain the damper hasn't slipped? (Did you check TDC as marked is actually TDC #1?) Yes, checked for TDC on number one on the compression stroke. Damper is good. I must not have been clear, I don’t think that all three are bad I think they’re made to a different specification. Or a wrong specification. I’m assuming they are made for EEC engines. But I just looked at my EVTM and that doesn’t make sense. Not sure on the advance or high idle either. I’m guessing when it’s going faster it’s picking up something. Tomorrow I’m going to try to dig into my old one and see if I can clean it up and solder the wires back together. And put it back in. Then if the one from Ford checks good I’ll put it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Yes, checked for TDC on number one on the compression stroke. Damper is good. I must not have been clear, I don’t think that all three are bad I think they’re made to a different specification. Or a wrong specification. I’m assuming they are made for EEC engines. But I just looked at my EVTM and that doesn’t make sense. Not sure on the advance or high idle either. I’m guessing when it’s going faster it’s picking up something. Tomorrow I’m going to try to dig into my old one and see if I can clean it up and solder the wires back together. And put it back in. Then if the one from Ford checks good I’ll put it in. What you show is a DSII pickup. It would not have that plug if it weren't. And that's why I'm surprised the new ones aren't reading 8-900 ohms. Quality control can't be that poor. There's nothing to go bad just sitting on a shelf. Plus, you've changed the coil. Because without finding that broken wire that is where I would have gone first. I'm sorry I don't have much to offer (but questions) You seem to be doing everything right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Perhaps I'm misremembering having to check the air gap when I replaced mine because of a broken magnet. I know there is a spec. And, I do know the spec for the winding in the pickup. It's crazy that three of these things were bad off the shelf. Not sure what idle speed or ignition advance would have to do with getting it to stay running... Are you certain the damper hasn't slipped? (Did you check TDC as marked is actually TDC #1?) Pickup coil specs per AllData: Resistance 400-1000 ohms with a 250 watt heat lamp held 1 1/2 inches from the coil for 5 minutes. Gap .017" minimum These are for Darth's DS-II system (long gone). Maybe this can be added to the DS-II information? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Pickup coil specs per AllData: Resistance 400-1000 ohms with a 250 watt heat lamp held 1 1/2 inches from the coil for 5 minutes. Gap .017" minimum These are for Darth's DS-II system (long gone). Maybe this can be added to the DS-II information? Bill - See what you think: Documentation/Electrical/Distributors and the Specifications tab. I left off the Alldata, but can add it if you think we should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts