ArdWrknTrk Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 According to other pics I've looked it, it appears to be correct. He said it was a floor shift. That's the end of the transmission still bolted to it, ya? Is there a gasket between the trans and t-case? If I can't buy one we have sheets of Garlock at work... Alright Cory, these are the best pics I could get (from under my truck, in the dark) It's really hard to get anything of the top side with the muffler and frame in the way, but I hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 Alright Cory, these are the best pics I could get (from under my truck, in the dark) It's really hard to get anything of the top side with the muffler and frame in the way, but I hope this helps. All good Jim, thanks. So you have a 1356 in an F250 as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 All good Jim, thanks. So you have a 1356 in an F250 as well? Yes. My '87 came off the lot with one, but this one came paired with the Zf-5 I picked out of a plow truck that had literally rotted in half. Don't go crazy for a gasket at the transfer case adapter. I didn't use one (mostly because I didn't have one) when I reinstalled it this past July. Maybe there's a cereal box in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Yes. My '87 came off the lot with one, but this one came paired with the Zf-5 I picked out of a plow truck that had literally rotted in half. Don't go crazy for a gasket at the transfer case adapter. I didn't use one (mostly because I didn't have one) when I reinstalled it this past July. Maybe there's a cereal box in there? Jim, Do you have a parts breakdown or disassembly diagram of the BW1356? I got my used one today...and it's at my work shop, so I don't have it in front of me. The front output shaft has some nasty rust behind the yoke, and I didn't get a good look at it...I assume it is the tin part of the seal, or a flinger...I dunno, but it was crumbling apart. Better pics tomorrow. How hard is it to pull that yoke and replace whatever is behind it? Also, a piece of the case is cracked off...not sure it matter yet, but will have a better look tomorrow. Oh me and the rusty junk I bring home...arrrgh...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Jim, Do you have a parts breakdown or disassembly diagram of the BW1356? I got my used one today...and it's at my work shop, so I don't have it in front of me. The front output shaft has some nasty rust behind the yoke, and I didn't get a good look at it...I assume it is the tin part of the seal, or a flinger...I dunno, but it was crumbling apart. Better pics tomorrow. How hard is it to pull that yoke and replace whatever is behind it? Also, a piece of the case is cracked off...not sure it matter yet, but will have a better look tomorrow. Oh me and the rusty junk I bring home...arrrgh...lol. When I was stuck in Vermont I used this exploded diagram mechanical shift from Rockland Standard Gear (mostly because they are local to me, and very helpful) https://rsgear.business/parts-diagrams/borgWarner-1356-mechanical-shift/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 When I was stuck in Vermont I used this exploded diagram mechanical shift from Rockland Standard Gear (mostly because they are local to me, and very helpful) https://rsgear.business/parts-diagrams/borgWarner-1356-mechanical-shift/ We have the illustrations, part numbers, and factory shop manual instructions at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 We have the illustrations, part numbers, and factory shop manual instructions at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases. 7E215 is the Achilles heel. If it rubs through the interior case web and spins with the pump everything inside will overheat from lack of oil (ATF) And when it gets mangled there are NONE available. At least in all the hunting I did for one back in July. My advice, just do the mod by welding a rod across the top of the triangular brace. It will only cost you an hour and some RTV to seal the case back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 7E215 is the Achilles heel. If it rubs through the interior case web and spins with the pump everything inside will overheat from lack of oil (ATF) And when it gets mangled there are NONE available. At least in all the hunting I did for one back in July. My advice, just do the mod by welding a rod across the top of the triangular brace. It will only cost you an hour and some RTV to seal the case back up. I spent some time going over this case this morning and cleaning it up. It's a little rough around the edges, but I think it will be OK for what I'm doing. The input mounting face had some corrosion on it, but it still cleaned up pretty well. There is a little piece of the casting broken off around 9 o'clock, but the hole has a plug pressed into it...so I assume it will be OK. I'll jam some silicone in there. The guy cut the front driveshaft u-bolts off with a torch, but I just zip cut them off and tapped them out. The front output shaft seal is really rotten...lol, and the metal slinger...or what's left of it, has disintegrated. Luckily the lock nut cam off with a 3/4" impact, and the yoke slides out easily, so I'll clean it up when the new seal goes in. Seems like there's a little bit of slop in the chain, but I don't know how much play is normal...so maybe it's OK. This case was removed from a truck that was either worn out or rotted out...or both...lol, so I'm not expecting like-new quality here. Speedo drive gear (and driven gear) appear to be in nice condition. So I'll get some input and output seals, and if need be I'll swap the front output shaft from the 1995 case...assuming it will fit. That little rusted ring on the right is what's left of that front output shaft yoke slinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I spent some time going over this case this morning and cleaning it up. It's a little rough around the edges, but I think it will be OK for what I'm doing. The input mounting face had some corrosion on it, but it still cleaned up pretty well. There is a little piece of the casting broken off around 9 o'clock, but the hole has a plug pressed into it...so I assume it will be OK. I'll jam some silicone in there. The guy cut the front driveshaft u-bolts off with a torch, but I just zip cut them off and tapped them out. The front output shaft seal is really rotten...lol, and the metal slinger...or what's left of it, has disintegrated. Luckily the lock nut cam off with a 3/4" impact, and the yoke slides out easily, so I'll clean it up when the new seal goes in. Seems like there's a little bit of slop in the chain, but I don't know how much play is normal...so maybe it's OK. This case was removed from a truck that was either worn out or rotted out...or both...lol, so I'm not expecting like-new quality here. Speedo drive gear (and driven gear) appear to be in nice condition. So I'll get some input and output seals, and if need be I'll swap the front output shaft from the 1995 case...assuming it will fit. That little rusted ring on the right is what's left of that front output shaft yoke slinger. I forgot that you asked what kind of gasket. I’ve put them on with just RTV, but prefer the paper gasket with some RTV on it. The plug might be the alignment pin? It just ensures it goes on correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 I forgot that you asked what kind of gasket. I’ve put them on with just RTV, but prefer the paper gasket with some RTV on it. The plug might be the alignment pin? It just ensures it goes on correctly. Oh, there's an alignment pin? Then that's what happened to the hole. He pried the transmission adapter off it and broke the casting. No biggie, it will stick work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts