Rear fuel tank issues

[ArdWrknTrk]

The gauge tends to read the same as the front tank when i switch it.

Which may mean the valve isn't moving to the rear.

If you look at the diagrams, the tank selector relay chooses which pump gets power, but the valve moves to change senders and ports.

So try unplugging the valve and powering it directly to see if it moves when you reverse polarity on the orange & brown/white wires.

If it does, your problem is the switch (or the wiring between switch and valve)

If it doesn't, the valve is dead.

[jmadigan]

Which may mean the valve isn't moving to the rear.

If you look at the diagrams, the tank selector relay chooses which pump gets power, but the valve moves to change senders and ports.

So try unplugging the valve and powering it directly to see if it moves when you reverse polarity on the orange & brown/white wires.

If it does, your problem is the switch (or the wiring between switch and valve)

If it doesn't, the valve is dead.

Copy that. I will give that a shot and report back. Thank you!

[85lebaront2]

Copy that. I will give that a shot and report back. Thank you!

I believe the valve is available from Pollack.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I believe the valve is available from Pollack.

Yep, that's what I said....

But you have to use their pigtail and clamps instead of the stock nylon click and lock connections.

So get the 'kit' and not just the valve.

Still, $75 is a lot better than $475 for stock (if you can even find one)

[jmadigan]

Yep, that's what I said....

But you have to use their pigtail and clamps instead of the stock nylon click and lock connections.

So get the 'kit' and not just the valve.

Still, $75 is a lot better than $475 for stock (if you can even find one)

Okay guys thank you for pointing me in the right direction a new fuel selector valve did the trick both tanks are working now. Thanks again!