Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Gary, with your input, I'll do it. Sounds like Vic may be able to provide some good input too. I'll probably take mine apart today for an inspection. Mine may just need some cleaning as it may be all gummed up inside but I also have some copper showing in some of the joints of the wiring. Regarding your warning on the reel, I'm taking notice as I know how that scenario can go. If you couldn't get it back together, I certainly know I will struggle. When I split the case, am I at immediate risk of the reel unwinding? Also, do you know if one can access all the wiring without pulling the reel apart? I ask because I may be wanting to change the wiring from the unit to the light. I'd like a more durable wire and I don't need 16' of it. I also need to work on some of the wire that powers and grounds my unit. Would also be nice to know if that "ball tilt switch" is still available as a replacement for the mercury switch, as I posted in my link above. Here's the part number: YW1Z-15702-BA 14 degree Mechanical Hood Lamp Switch I'm happy to help. On the reel, you can pull one side off, the side w/o the mounts IIRC, w/o having the spring go everywhere. The reel stays on there fine if you are careful. And I think you could drill the rivets but leave the unit assembled, pull the wire all the way out to the last notch, and then pull the cover. That should let you replace the wire, although I've not done that. But the spring will be wound tight at that point and you will need to be even more careful. Maybe a clamp or a weight to hold the reel in place. As for that switch, Lakeland Ford has one for $70.60. How many do you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I'm happy to help. On the reel, you can pull one side off, the side w/o the mounts IIRC, w/o having the spring go everywhere. The reel stays on there fine if you are careful. And I think you could drill the rivets but leave the unit assembled, pull the wire all the way out to the last notch, and then pull the cover. That should let you replace the wire, although I've not done that. But the spring will be wound tight at that point and you will need to be even more careful. Maybe a clamp or a weight to hold the reel in place. As for that switch, Lakeland Ford has one for $70.60. How many do you want? Eeesh! I bet they're under a buck from Digikey, Newark or Mouser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Eeesh! I bet they're under a buck from Digikey, Newark or Mouser. Yes, if we can get the right part we can make it part of the how-to. But I don't think it is going to be the one Ford spec'd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Yes, if we can get the right part we can make it part of the how-to. But I don't think it is going to be the one Ford spec'd. Could be a simple accelerometer switched relay. That would duplicate a mercury switch in function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Could be a simple accelerometer switched relay. That would duplicate a mercury switch in function. LED lights are "one way" flip the LED's Plug around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 LED lights are "one way" flip the LED's Plug around... Gary's right about the spring. When I refurbished mine it uncoiled but wasn't bad putting it back together. Once you take a look at the innards, there's not much to the whole assembly and in addition to cleaning it also gives you the opportunity to wind it a little tighter if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 Gary's right about the spring. When I refurbished mine it uncoiled but wasn't bad putting it back together. Once you take a look at the innards, there's not much to the whole assembly and in addition to cleaning it also gives you the opportunity to wind it a little tighter if you want. Thanks Scott, but I think I'll leave that spring be....LOL! When I got it apart last night I quickly realized why it wasn't working. The contact that touches the little mercury switch was not making contact. I attempted to move it and eventually broke it. The wire that was attached to the contact was also quiet corroded and it broke off trying to clean it. I made a copper contact using some copper tubing I had but I'm wondering if I should look into something like spring steel. Suggestions? Also, cleaned up all the contacts including the those on the reel. Suggestions on lubing those points? If so, with what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Thanks Scott, but I think I'll leave that spring be....LOL! When I got it apart last night I quickly realized why it wasn't working. The contact that touches the little mercury switch was not making contact. I attempted to move it and eventually broke it. The wire that was attached to the contact was also quiet corroded and it broke off trying to clean it. I made a copper contact using some copper tubing I had but I'm wondering if I should look into something like spring steel. Suggestions? Also, cleaned up all the contacts including the those on the reel. Suggestions on lubing those points? If so, with what? The spring steel question I'll leave to MacGyver For the contacts, I smeared some dielectric grease on them. White lithium on the other non-electric moving parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 The spring steel question I'll leave to MacGyver For the contacts, I smeared some dielectric grease on them. White lithium on the other non-electric moving parts. That's funny, Scott! I'm actually looking forward to his response....where you at, Jim??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 That's funny, Scott! I'm actually looking forward to his response....where you at, Jim??? Me? I think brass is fine as a contact. There is spring brass, but that is kinda specialist and you'd likely find it from a clockmaker. I've torn open a regular wall receptacle to hack a wiper contact before. I'm not big on oils or grease in a dusty environment. I would probably try powdered graphite since it's slippery and conductive. It won't attract and stick to grit and dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts