Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Very odd for an '82 to have that... I thought that was a '84+ thing as part of the EEC-IV & TFI introduction. Unless this is a hack job, they'd have to swap the entire engine harness, including the ECU wiring in the dash. Something doesn't add up here... --- I only ever hear mine click after turning the engine off.. never before starting. Don't miss that he's in California. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrzejski Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 Don't miss that he's in California. Thank you everybody for the feedback! This has been extremely helpful in helping me trace down a problem. This morning I disconnected the metal fuel line from the pump to the filter/carb. I was working solo, so I rubber banded a paper towel over the fuel line and cranked it over a few times. The paper towel was pretty wet, so I think the fuel pump is ok. I pulled off the filter to replace it; however, when I blew through the filter, it didn't seem clogged. I'm assuming this means the problem is somewhere in my carburetors, but I'm not sure where to start. Would a sticky bowl not let any gas in? I also think that solenoid/stepper motor is making noise because it's trying to prime the carb but no fuel is coming in. Thanks again for all the Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Thank you everybody for the feedback! This has been extremely helpful in helping me trace down a problem. This morning I disconnected the metal fuel line from the pump to the filter/carb. I was working solo, so I rubber banded a paper towel over the fuel line and cranked it over a few times. The paper towel was pretty wet, so I think the fuel pump is ok. I pulled off the filter to replace it; however, when I blew through the filter, it didn't seem clogged. I'm assuming this means the problem is somewhere in my carburetors, but I'm not sure where to start. Would a sticky bowl not let any gas in? I also think that solenoid/stepper motor is making noise because it's trying to prime the carb but no fuel is coming in. Thanks again for all the It's not the job of the solenoid to prime the carb. The solenoid influences mixture by metering bleed air, like Bill said. Have you tried filling the float bowl and starting the truck? (No fuel down the carb) You are going to have to figure out a way to check volume of the pump output. That means cranking the pump for 15 seconds while capturing all the fuel from the line in a graduated measuring device (which could be anything from a paint mixing pail to a dollar store protein shake pitcher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrzejski Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 It's not the job of the solenoid to prime the carb. The solenoid influences mixture by metering bleed air, like Bill said. Have you tried filling the float bowl and starting the truck? (No fuel down the carb) You are going to have to figure out a way to check volume of the pump output. That means cranking the pump for 15 seconds while capturing all the fuel from the line in a graduated measuring device (which could be anything from a paint mixing pail to a dollar store protein shake pitcher. I wanted to give a quick update: I am back up and running again! I replaced the fuel filter and verified the fuel pump was working. I was able to get enough starting fluid down the throat to get the truck to catch up and start fueling the carb normally. I presume my carb is just gummy & an old fuel filter complicated that problem. This leads me to my next question: Does anyone have a good carb replacement recommendation? I'm ok with either a stock replacement or a holley/edelbrock/etc. if they're that much better. I'd like to keep the budget under $600 if possible for the part, but I know I need one that's CA emissions compliant. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Lastly - I wanted to thank all of you who responded. You all gave me the confidence to dig in. I really appreciate your responses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 I wanted to give a quick update: I am back up and running again! I replaced the fuel filter and verified the fuel pump was working. I was able to get enough starting fluid down the throat to get the truck to catch up and start fueling the carb normally. I presume my carb is just gummy & an old fuel filter complicated that problem. This leads me to my next question: Does anyone have a good carb replacement recommendation? I'm ok with either a stock replacement or a holley/edelbrock/etc. if they're that much better. I'd like to keep the budget under $600 if possible for the part, but I know I need one that's CA emissions compliant. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Lastly - I wanted to thank all of you who responded. You all gave me the confidence to dig in. I really appreciate your responses! Good job! Glad you got it going. As for a replacement, several on here have had good luck with a replacement carb described here: New/Repro YF carburetor for the 300 six. But that is a YF and not a YFA, which should be what you have, and the main difference I believe is the feedback bit. However, they may have a YFA, so you should browse that thread and follow the links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Good job! Glad you got it going. As for a replacement, several on here have had good luck with a replacement carb described here: New/Repro YF carburetor for the 300 six. But that is a YF and not a YFA, which should be what you have, and the main difference I believe is the feedback bit. However, they may have a YFA, so you should browse that thread and follow the links. Gary, the difference is actually in the base being cast iron on the YF and aluminum on the YFA. ('A'luminium) Mike's has a lot of Carter documentation, and could certainly supply a CA compliant carb. But these things are SO simple it's hard to imagine not rebuilding it yourself -if it isn't completely worn out- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Gary, the difference is actually in the base being cast iron on the YF and aluminum on the YFA. ('A'luminium) Mike's has a lot of Carter documentation, and could certainly supply a CA compliant carb. But these things are SO simple it's hard to imagine not rebuilding it yourself -if it isn't completely worn out- Jim - Thanks, that makes sense. I know a WCFB is a Will Carter Four Barrel and an AFB is an Aluminum Four Barrel, so I should have twigged to what the A means in YFA. (Now I wonder what the YF means. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gtk Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Jim - Thanks, that makes sense. I know a WCFB is a Will Carter Four Barrel and an AFB is an Aluminum Four Barrel, so I should have twigged to what the A means in YFA. (Now I wonder what the YF means. ) Have your carb rebuilt by a knowledgeable person with the correct kit. I would not advise on purchasing a reman from Rock Auto. My experience with that was just terrible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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