bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Bill did get the motor in! Engine in is a great feeling. Remember that the driveshaft length given is fully bottomed. Measurement is C-C on the cross, so subtract one bearing cap diameter from your overall You would need to be measuring with the shackles disconnected, and the axle on the stops. Some specific purpose for this truck? Yeah! Just makes it feel like a truck again. That make sense on the lengths. I was just trying to do my best to get something by myself from underneath. Now to the really fun stuff... Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Bill did get the motor in! Engine in is a great feeling. Remember that the driveshaft length given is fully bottomed. Measurement is C-C on the cross, so subtract one bearing cap diameter from your overall You would need to be measuring with the shackles disconnected, and the axle on the stops. Some specific purpose for this truck? Truck's purpose will be general farm stuff. Hauling firewood, pulling logs, moving round bales, gravel, moving trailers etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Truck's purpose will be general farm stuff. Hauling firewood, pulling logs, moving round bales, gravel, moving trailers etc. Subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Subscribed Hey Scott! Don't mind Jim and I... We might veer off topic slightly talking about bird dogs etc now and then... But I am making progress! Drivetrain is in and I'm sorting out my drive shaft situations. In the meantime I can button up the electrical stuff, gauges, motor stuff, brake lines, etc. And don't get me going on the rabbit hole of tires for it (just had to have a dually didn't I?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hey Scott! Don't mind Jim and I... We might veer off topic slightly talking about bird dogs etc now and then... But I am making progress! Drivetrain is in and I'm sorting out my drive shaft situations. In the meantime I can button up the electrical stuff, gauges, motor stuff, brake lines, etc. And don't get me going on the rabbit hole of tires for it (just had to have a dually didn't I?) If it weren't for tangents, all we'd talk about are trucks I am a fan of C&C pickups as we have a few of them on the farm and with my 80 being 2wd (so pretty much fair weather/road usage) what you are doing/done is of real interest to me. With a dump especially, the rear tire width will be of note. We have the Nexen Roadian A/T Pro RA8 on a couple of trucks and like them. My 80 has the same tires all the way around though since it doesn't see a lot of weight and risk of rubbing is low. Keep up the great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hey Scott! Don't mind Jim and I... We might veer off topic slightly talking about bird dogs etc now and then... But I am making progress! Drivetrain is in and I'm sorting out my drive shaft situations. In the meantime I can button up the electrical stuff, gauges, motor stuff, brake lines, etc. And don't get me going on the rabbit hole of tires for it (just had to have a dually didn't I?) Gary is the master of 8-page over-analysis and rabbit holes. You'll come to understand. I'm not certain about what's optimal for farm use. On street dually tow rigs usually run 215/85-R16 E tires to keep rocks out between them. But I expect you need more traction and care less about highway noise. Is your hydraulics PTO or electric? You might consider updating that 2G, if it is electric and you're going to be relying on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Gary is the master of 8-page over-analysis and rabbit holes. You'll come to understand. I'm not certain about what's optimal for farm use. On street dually tow rigs usually run 215/85-R16 E tires to keep rocks out between them. But I expect you need more traction and care less about highway noise. Is your hydraulics PTO or electric? You might consider updating that 2G, if it is electric and you're going to be relying on it. Yes, that is the issue finding tires... Width yet tall (I don't want monster truck tires by any means but 31s would be nice). Not a ton of options. Road noise is the least of my concerns. It is electric over hydraulic. I've kicked around switching to PTO but why make another project when I have something that already works?! I need to read up on the 3g switch. Scott, I can't really think of anything too early shattering on the 2wd swap part of it that I haven't mentioned. The rear hangers on the front leafs was really the most tedious part of it that I can think of. You do have to swap out the transmission crossmember which wasn't a perfect plug and play fit but within torch and ream bit tolerances Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Yes, that is the issue finding tires... Width yet tall (I don't want monster truck tires by any means but 31s would be nice). Not a ton of options. Road noise is the least of my concerns. It is electric over hydraulic. I've kicked around switching to PTO but why make another project when I have something that already works?! I need to read up on the 3g switch. Scott, I can't really think of anything too early shattering on the 2wd swap part of it that I haven't mentioned. The rear hangers on the front leafs was really the most tedious part of it that I can think of. You do have to swap out the transmission crossmember which wasn't a perfect plug and play fit but within torch and ream bit tolerances Can I ask how the drop side crossmember needs cutting? Is it the straight & narrow of the C&C frame? Because 460 and T-19 seem the same. There's no reason any of the mounts shifted position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Can I ask how the drop side crossmember needs cutting? Is it the straight & narrow of the C&C frame? Because 460 and T-19 seem the same. There's no reason any of the mounts shifted position. It wasn't the cross member itself that needed cut. It was a little bit of the bottom channel on the frame on the driver side so that the cross member could sit flat. Essentially the lips on the channel of the frame are wider on a C&C. This did not allow for the flat spot on the cross member to sit on the frame properly. I don't think that these differences had anything to do with four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive. I think these differences 100% had to do with the difference in the C&C frame and using a passenger truck cross member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 Can I ask how the drop side crossmember needs cutting? Is it the straight & narrow of the C&C frame? Because 460 and T-19 seem the same. There's no reason any of the mounts shifted position. And as far as the reaming out of the holes is concerned I believe that is due to the frame starting to become narrower than a passenger frame somewhere in this vicinity. It didn't take much so the difference wasn't drastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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