Gary Lewis Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Hey Gary- Yes, I called Denny's and virtually every driveline shop in North America (probably not even close but it feels like it). Two facilities have indicated (yesterday) they have something that should work. One outfit being Driveline and Gear Service in Nevada and the other being Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts in Utah (for reference if anyone needs it later). To make a long story short, it appears that the yoke that will work on this particular application is actually listed as a NP yoke. Obviously, originally, all of these yokes were made by Spicer, which makes sense if you think about it that NP and B&W would design transfer cases that all used readily available yokes at the time. I have taken every conceivable measurement I can from my old yoke and the double cardan mount and it seems like it will work. Shawn at Tom's even took the yoke and slid it onto a core 1345 they had laying around. Said it fits perfectly. The only slight difference that may exist, as far as I can tell without getting my hands on one quite yet, is the ground seal surface might be slighter "bigger" on the NP yoke, but it's apparently a rather negligible difference because Shawn said it slid into the seal on the 1345. If that happens to be a problem for me, I will simply take the yoke to my uncle that has a small machine shop and have him grind off the thousdanth or so difference off it. It seems like a lot of the confusion out there in the driveline world is either not knowing, or accepting that at least some NP yokes will work on B&Ws and vice versa. Had I called every place I called and asked for a NP yoke for this application, I would have likely been done several weeks ago. But we live and learn. And honestly, I am not going to count my chickens until I have a yoke connected to my transfer case with a double cardan driveshaft hooked to it... Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 Have started working on the rear situation too. This was taken before I got the 4" tapered blocks and U-bolts which are in on this side now. I am waiting on a shackle for the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Bill - I don't have any experience swapping from one brand or model of t-case to another. Sorry. But did you call Denny's Driveline? I know the output shafts both differ, 1345 -> 1356. I can't imagine a New Process TC has any parts that interchange with Borg Warner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 I know the output shafts both differ, 1345 -> 1356. I can't imagine a New Process TC has any parts that interchange with Borg Warner. To be clear I am referring to specifically to the end yokes, not the output shafts. My theory and what I'm being told is while the output shafts might be different between any of the three of those as far as length or other aspects the splines and diameter might not be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 To be clear I am referring to specifically to the end yokes, not the output shafts. My theory and what I'm being told is while the output shafts might be different between any of the three of those as far as length or other aspects the splines and diameter might not be. And if there is some reason why this new process end yoke will not work I'm going to be extremely curious to see what measurement or aspect of it is that it will make it not work because everything I have checked indicates it is the same. Spline length, inside diameter (both from inside of groove and top of spline), center line to end, all appear to be exactly the same. As I noted the only thing I've found that is slightly off perhaps is the seal grind diameter. And to be honest that seems like it might be within the margin of error of measuring with a caliper. And like I said the guy that I bought it from took the yoke out and slid it on the front output shaft on an existing BW 1345. Now granted he's just telling me that he did that but that's all I know at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 And if there is some reason why this new process end yoke will not work I'm going to be extremely curious to see what measurement or aspect of it is that it will make it not work because everything I have checked indicates it is the same. Spline length, inside diameter (both from inside of groove and top of spline), center line to end, all appear to be exactly the same. As I noted the only thing I've found that is slightly off perhaps is the seal grind diameter. And to be honest that seems like it might be within the margin of error of measuring with a caliper. And like I said the guy that I bought it from took the yoke out and slid it on the front output shaft on an existing BW 1345. Now granted he's just telling me that he did that but that's all I know at this point. I'm very glad you've found a place that has the knowledge and wherewithal to check a part fit before saying "yes" Yeah, I didn't get it that you were only asking about yokes and not the output. Spicer is the source for all of this, ultimately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 I'm very glad you've found a place that has the knowledge and wherewithal to check a part fit before saying "yes" Yeah, I didn't get it that you were only asking about yokes and not the output. Spicer is the source for all of this, ultimately. Got the springs and blocks in. Used 4" tapered blocks on the rear. Appears to be pretty close to level unloaded. Close enough for me anyhow! Transfer case yoke should be here today 🤞 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Got the springs and blocks in. Used 4" tapered blocks on the rear. Appears to be pretty close to level unloaded. Close enough for me anyhow! Transfer case yoke should be here today 🤞 Looking good! Progress is good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Looking good! Progress is good! Yessir! I must admit it's nice to actually see it level (without being on jack stands anyhow). Funny how working on a truck that's six inches lower in the back can mess with your mind. One thing I wouldn't mind getting some thoughts on is that on the rear, on both sides, the rear section of the helper is about a 1/2" from the support hanger while the front is about 1.5" from it's hanger. Took me a minute to wrap my head around why, but it must be bc of the tapered block. Would anyone find that concerning? I have thought about how to "correct" it and I've come up with these options: 1) move the brackets on the frame, 2) take the blocks out that the helpers sit on and have them machined with a counter-taper, 3) shim the front of the block to rise the front of the helpers. Maybe I'm overthinking this too... It's happened before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Got the springs and blocks in. Used 4" tapered blocks on the rear. Appears to be pretty close to level unloaded. Close enough for me anyhow! Transfer case yoke should be here today 🤞 Do you have a picture, showing the blocks and how the helpers sit? I've only ever seen the factory 350 4X4 4" blocks, and they didn't seem to pitch the helpers like that. It must be a great feeling, knowing there is light at the end of your driveline situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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