bp17oang Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 So, at the suggestion of Gary, I am starting this thread on my current project: 1985 2wd F350 C&C conversion to 4x4 with a Dana 60 kingpin front axle. I will post some pictures of my project tomorrow but I wanted to at least start the thread and give a little background. The project started when I found the 2wd 460 4sp dump truck for sale for a pretty fair price because it wasn't running (probably due to a timing assembly issue). I already had in 1986 460 4sp 4x4 extended cab, So my original thoughts were to just take the dump bed assembly and put it on my 86... Well as ideas sometimes do, that plan changed. First and foremost being naive when I bought the two-wheel drive I did not realize it was a C&C. And as I now know the frames from the cab back are different on the C&C and passenger trucks. Oops. Anyhow after I got the bed off my 86 I realized it was not suitable for a dump bed in it's current state. And that is all beyond seeing the differences in the frame structure and leaf springs that were on the C&C dually. So truthfully my mistake turned out to be a blessing in disguise for what I want this truck for. So the good news was I had a four-wheel drive, running drivetrain I could use out of my '86. Now all I needed was some way to get power to the front wheels. My original thought was to just use my Dana 50 TTB that I already had... But there were some problems with that. First of all the gear ratio was wrong (the Dana 70 HD dually axle had 410 gears, my ttb did not) and second of all the cross member under the engine on the 2wd is a little bit different than a 4wd. These differences aren't drastic but they are enough that it would have made mounting the pivot brackets for the TTB at least somewhat complicated. If anyone would like some more information on those differences I could explain further. So that realization also became a blessing in disguise because that is how I wound up with my Dana 60 kingpin axle already with the correct gear ratio and set up for a dually to boot. I mean I am using this truck as a dump truck on my farm... I don't really have any specific issues with the Dana 50 but I think we can all admit they have their limitations for heavy duty use. Anyhow the axle is installed and within the next few days I should be getting the motor and transmission in. So hopefully I will get some pictures uploaded tomorrow in chronological order of some of the major steps in the transformation. Thanks everyone and I'm excited to keep anyone updated on the project that's interested. I'm by no means an expert but I'm also happy to try to answer any questions anyone might have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 I'm following along. It's a good thing you were able to find a D60 with extended hubs for dually wheels. Did you get the double cardan front driveshaft along with the axle? Do you have the deeper F350 pitman arm, or are you going aftermarket for that and a panhard bar mount? Hopefully you can part out the rest of your old 250 and take some of the sting out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Bill - I'll be following as well. And Jim is asking good questions, the same ones I had to work through on Big Blue. I look forward to the journey and the pictures! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 I'm following along. It's a good thing you were able to find a D60 with extended hubs for dually wheels. Did you get the double cardan front driveshaft along with the axle? Do you have the deeper F350 pitman arm, or are you going aftermarket for that and a panhard bar mount? Hopefully you can part out the rest of your old 250 and take some of the sting out. As for the panhard/track bar mount, the axle did come with that. So, hopefully that works. As for the pitman arm, I haven't officially gotten there yet as it's kind of difficult to gauge much on ride height etc without the motor in. I have the linkage temporarily just help into to place with the one off my 4x4. Any advice or tips on this would be appreciated. Unfortunately the axle did not come with the front driveshaft. So, assuming the one out of 4x4 won't work, I will likely just have one made. I will have to either have one of rear drive shafts I have shortened or new one made anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 As for the panhard/track bar mount, the axle did come with that. So, hopefully that works. As for the pitman arm, I haven't officially gotten there yet as it's kind of difficult to gauge much on ride height etc without the motor in. I have the linkage temporarily just help into to place with the one off my 4x4. Any advice or tips on this would be appreciated. Unfortunately the axle did not come with the front driveshaft. So, assuming the one out of 4x4 won't work, I will likely just have one made. I will have to either have one of rear drive shafts I have shortened or new one made anyhow. Just get a junkyard driveshaft from another 350. It will have the double cardan yoke you need to get the pinion angle right and will cost WAY less than a new joint from the power transmission shop. I can look it up new from Spicer, but the last time I checked I had to sit down and catch my breath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Just get a junkyard driveshaft from another 350. It will have the double cardan yoke you need to get the pinion angle right and will cost WAY less than a new joint from the power transmission shop. I can look it up new from Spicer, but the last time I checked I had to sit down and catch my breath. Actually they're not as bad as I thought. $280 from JBG (plus tax and shipping, of course) Still pricey if you can get one from salvage for $25. New universals are what, $20 each? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Actually they're not as bad as I thought. $280 from JBG (plus tax and shipping, of course) Still pricey if you can get one from salvage for $25. New universals are what, $20 each? I'm not sure which transfer case you have from your 250 supercab. Probably a BW 1345???? (Edit, rereading your intro, yes 1345) You need to make sure the front output shaft matches the 350 driveshaft (or you get the one you need from the donor) Looking at Dana/Spicer I see now that their MSRP for a 92389 double cardan weld on unit is $349.76. That's for just the joint that would then have to be welded to your shortened driveshaft. So... probably another $100 to have an existing shaft cut, welded and balanced. That's why I said it was pretty shocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 I'm not sure which transfer case you have from your 250 supercab. Probably a BW 1345???? (Edit, rereading your intro, yes 1345) You need to make sure the front output shaft matches the 350 driveshaft (or you get the one you need from the donor) Looking at Dana/Spicer I see now that their MSRP for a 92389 double cardan weld on unit is $349.76. That's for just the joint that would then have to be welded to your shortened driveshaft. So... probably another $100 to have an existing shaft cut, welded and balanced. That's why I said it was pretty shocking. Yikes. Yeah finding something like that at a junkyard in these parts is becoming, shall we say, challenging. I have a 1345. As for selling some of the 86 stuff to take out the sting, it doesn't appear I can give that stuff away unless it's a scrapyard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 Just get a junkyard driveshaft from another 350. It will have the double cardan yoke you need to get the pinion angle right and will cost WAY less than a new joint from the power transmission shop. I can look it up new from Spicer, but the last time I checked I had to sit down and catch my breath. Now you've got me wondering how much of a mess I might have on my hands with the rear driveshaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Now you've got me wondering how much of a mess I might have on my hands with the rear driveshaft... It is probably $75-100 to cut, weld and balance a driveshaft. (I'm not sure of prices in Ohio) Just make sure you get the proper universal yoke welded on that fits the transfer case output shaft. While there are bastard (or combination) universals, they are more expensive and you want something easily available to repair farm equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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