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Fuel Gauge and Ground


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Lifting (tilting) the bed worked better for me, having done it both ways. Both are a pain in the butt, but if you're not looking to clean out/inspect the tank, tilting the bed was easier. Just beware that the rearmost bed bolts like to round out and spin... the LH rear one did that to me, and I had to wedge the head to get the nut off (and wrap/jam it with electrical tape to get it to re-install).

Yeah, I think lifting the bed will be the route I'm going to take. I've had the bed off before so I'm hopeful those bolts will release without difficulty. Thank you!

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That too... If I had a welder that wasn't a junky Harbor Freight wonder, I'd have done that.

The middle bolts are different (bigger keying boss) and don't seem to have this problem... only the back (and front?) ones with carriage squares were trouble for me.

Hey! I've got a junkyard $160 Horrid Fate welder. :nabble_smiley_hurt:

It would work just fine for tracking a bolt head down.

If fact, I'm about to go out and weld up some bed frames into storage shelf brackets.

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Hey! I've got a junkyard $160 Horrid Fate welder. :nabble_smiley_hurt:

It would work just fine for tracking a bolt head down.

If fact, I'm about to go out and weld up some bed frames into storage shelf brackets.

Hopefully yours come apart easily as they are very frustrating when they spin (just like the front bumper bolts) :nabble_smiley_good:

Similar to tacking the head to the bed, we tacked a nut to the top of a couple on mine. A little more difficult to cleanup if reusing the bolt though.

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Hopefully yours come apart easily as they are very frustrating when they spin (just like the front bumper bolts) :nabble_smiley_good:

Similar to tacking the head to the bed, we tacked a nut to the top of a couple on mine. A little more difficult to cleanup if reusing the bolt though.

Tacking it to the bed means you don't need someone else, with another wrench, to get it undone.

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Tacking it to the bed means you don't need someone else, with another wrench, to get it undone.

That's true. For me, the condition of the bolt and bed would be the determining factor.

Fingers crossed that John doesn't even have to cross that bridge :)

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That's true. For me, the condition of the bolt and bed would be the determining factor.

Fingers crossed that John doesn't even have to cross that bridge :)

Yes, fingers crossed. But my hope is that he doesn't have to pull the bed and finds the problem in an easier/cheaper place to fix. After all, it appears to be common to both tanks.

But, if he does have to pull the senders hopefully he'll use anti-seize so the bolts come off later if he needs to do so.

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Yes, fingers crossed. But my hope is that he doesn't have to pull the bed and finds the problem in an easier/cheaper place to fix. After all, it appears to be common to both tanks.

But, if he does have to pull the senders hopefully he'll use anti-seize so the bolts come off later if he needs to do so.

Thanks fellas. I pulled the bed 7-8 years ago when I had the truck painted. I don't recall the bolts giving me a lot of grief at that time. After I had the truck painted I had a spray in bedliner put in it and the liner is covering the tops of those bolts. If need be, I'll just cut them out.

Aside from the nonworking fuel gage, I really need to access the tanks. When the truck is parked in my garage, the place smells like gas. Also, in the hot Summer months, I have noted some pretty good pressure release when I pull the fuel caps for refueling. Not sure that is normal and I certainly don't like the gas smell. When I de-smogged my truck all those years ago, wasn't thinking much in how some things might be affected.

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Thanks fellas. I pulled the bed 7-8 years ago when I had the truck painted. I don't recall the bolts giving me a lot of grief at that time. After I had the truck painted I had a spray in bedliner put in it and the liner is covering the tops of those bolts. If need be, I'll just cut them out.

Aside from the nonworking fuel gage, I really need to access the tanks. When the truck is parked in my garage, the place smells like gas. Also, in the hot Summer months, I have noted some pretty good pressure release when I pull the fuel caps for refueling. Not sure that is normal and I certainly don't like the gas smell. When I de-smogged my truck all those years ago, wasn't thinking much in how some things might be affected.

The rollover valves should be venting to the charcoal canisters.

Those lines may be pinched or clogged.

Gary said he just brought the line up and put a filter on it.

That vent should be working, but it won't absorb the fumes.

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Thanks fellas. I pulled the bed 7-8 years ago when I had the truck painted. I don't recall the bolts giving me a lot of grief at that time. After I had the truck painted I had a spray in bedliner put in it and the liner is covering the tops of those bolts. If need be, I'll just cut them out.

Aside from the nonworking fuel gage, I really need to access the tanks. When the truck is parked in my garage, the place smells like gas. Also, in the hot Summer months, I have noted some pretty good pressure release when I pull the fuel caps for refueling. Not sure that is normal and I certainly don't like the gas smell. When I de-smogged my truck all those years ago, wasn't thinking much in how some things might be affected.

Right, you have a clogged or closed-off vent, John. No way it should build up pressure.

As Jim said, I just routed the vent line, after the two merged, way up the side of the bed, turned it back down, and put a filter on it. And it does vent out of it as when I filled the tanks yesterday I could smell gas over there, slightly.

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Right, you have a clogged or closed-off vent, John. No way it should build up pressure.

As Jim said, I just routed the vent line, after the two merged, way up the side of the bed, turned it back down, and put a filter on it. And it does vent out of it as when I filled the tanks yesterday I could smell gas over there, slightly.

Gary, you have pictures of how you routed those lines?

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