Lima Delta Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation? Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup. Sorry for the confusion - I won't be able to do a break-in run until after I pull the other engine and swap over the intake, carb and accessories. In the meantime I'm planning to store the rebuilt short block in a bag in my basement. That's why I was thinking the oil stabilizer might be a good idea cause I could coat the cylinder walls and rings during assembly and maybe help keep it from running back as much while it sits in storage. I had been hoping to do the swap this spring, but realistically it doesn't look like I'll be able to make that happen before I have to start hauling feed for summer animals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation? Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup. Sorry for the confusion - I won't be able to do a break-in run until after I pull the other engine and swap over the intake, carb and accessories. In the meantime I'm planning to store the rebuilt short block in a bag in my basement. That's why I was thinking the oil stabilizer might be a good idea cause I could coat the cylinder walls and rings during assembly and maybe help keep it from running back as much while it sits in storage. I had been hoping to do the swap this spring, but realistically it doesn't look like I'll be able to make that happen before I have to start hauling feed for summer animals. I don't think any of that would be concerning to me. Keeping it in a trash bag is a good idea though. That will help keep moisture laden air away from it, and that moisture from condensing on cold iron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I respectfully disagree with "overly clean an engine" This is a new build. There is no sludge in there now, and a good detergent package will keep it from getting that way. I've used nothing but diesel oil since I installed this engine and it is clean as a whistle inside. The oil pan gasket is leaking because it has cracked. I should have used a better one than the rebuilder supplied. Even in a new engine the reduced detergent level in VR1 wouldnt allow the engine to get dirty if you change the oil at proper intervals. Its just also save to use in older engines with some miles on them. As far as being a new build I dont know I re read his post multiple times it sounds like this engine has some miles on it as he stated he has done a few oil changes already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Rusty, he said "break in"... I'm assuming that means 20 minutes at 2k for the cam and then a few dyno pulls until the rings seat and the bearings loosen up? That's certainly enough to wash the assembly lube. I get priming, just to see oil flowing out the pushrods. But I don't think that is the situation here. It would be I didnt see his mentioning that in the original post I thought we were talking about a motor that has already been broken in and was being used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation? Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup. Sorry for the confusion - I won't be able to do a break-in run until after I pull the other engine and swap over the intake, carb and accessories. In the meantime I'm planning to store the rebuilt short block in a bag in my basement. That's why I was thinking the oil stabilizer might be a good idea cause I could coat the cylinder walls and rings during assembly and maybe help keep it from running back as much while it sits in storage. I had been hoping to do the swap this spring, but realistically it doesn't look like I'll be able to make that happen before I have to start hauling feed for summer animals. I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick. I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit. You dont want something that can build up to excessive level and hydro the motor. I think for mine I will just be using some straight 10w30 motor oil and just give a couple pumps from my oiler in each cylinder before I put the heads on and rotate the engine through multiple revolutions to spread the oil along the cylinders and the rings. This will help in my book lubricate the rings for that initial start and will quickly burn off by time the crank starts slinging oil on the cylinder walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I respectfully disagree with "overly clean an engine" This is a new build. There is no sludge in there now, and a good detergent package will keep it from getting that way. I've used nothing but diesel oil since I installed this engine and it is clean as a whistle inside. The oil pan gasket is leaking because it has cracked. I should have used a better one than the rebuilder supplied. Even in a new engine the reduced detergent level in VR1 wouldnt allow the engine to get dirty if you change the oil at proper intervals. Its just also save to use in older engines with some miles on them. As far as being a new build I dont know I re read his post multiple times it sounds like this engine has some miles on it as he stated he has done a few oil changes already. I am at 7,500 OIC and my internals are spotless. It is working for me, right now. But I realized over the weekend that I'm overdue, so I am stopping at Wallyworld for a Motorcraft filter and whatever jug of CI oil is on sale this week. There is always 2-stroke fogging oil. You spray this through the intake until the engine dies. So you can put your outboard away until the boat goes back in the water. (Yes, I understand that 2-stroke outboards are thing of the past. But long term storage is long term storage) Still, I wouldn't worry about a fresh engine in a bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I am at 7,500 OIC and my internals are spotless. It is working for me, right now. But I realized over the weekend that I'm overdue, so I am stopping at Wallyworld for a Motorcraft filter and whatever jug of CI oil is on sale this week. There is always 2-stroke fogging oil. You spray this through the intake until the engine dies. So you can put your outboard away until the boat goes back in the water. (Yes, I understand that 2-stroke outboards are thing of the past. But long term storage is long term storage) Still, I wouldn't worry about a fresh engine in a bag. I wouldnt either. For my 306 build I will be using regular old Valvoline 10w30 for the initial break in of 500 miles then I will switch to full synthetic 10w30 Valvoline at the next oil change. Only vehicle I ever ran VR1 in is my '56 being a solid lift flat tappet. For my truck I ran cheap standard grade Valvoline in my flat tappet engine. I personally just like a little oil on the cylinder walls for first start up just to prevent any kind of scuffing/scratching of the cylinders from dry rings. Why I wouldnt use some thick oil just regular motor oil something to just coat the cylinders lightly which would be no different than the crank throwing oil on the cylinders while running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lima Delta Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick. I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit. WD40 works great while work is in progress, but it's pretty thin and part solvent. I wouldn't trust it for too long. As far as I know it's standard practice to soak the rings and rub the bores down with a light coat of whatever oil you'll be using in the engine if it will be started shortly after being built. I have talked to one or two guys who said they have sometimes used some assembly lube on the rings if they know the engine will sit. That Lucas brand oil stabilizer though, it's interesting because while it is quite thick on its own, when it gets mixed into engine oil it doesn't really make the oil noticeably any thicker but it does make it stickier. I've been adding it 1:4 with conventional penzoil 10w30 with every oil change into my old HO motor for several years now. Never noticed any changes like slower cranking as though I was running a heavier oil. I have noticed slightly better oil pressure, less oil consumption and slower leaking at the rear main though (engine has just over 300K original kms on it). As far as lubricating this engine build goes however, I'm not planning to mix it nearly so rich - more like 1:16. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I dont know if I would go putting anything in the cylinders that are thick. I think most people just spray some WD40 on the cylinders before assembly if they will run the engine soon or rub a little motor oil into the cylinder walls if not starting for a bit. WD40 works great while work is in progress, but it's pretty thin and part solvent. I wouldn't trust it for too long. As far as I know it's standard practice to soak the rings and rub the bores down with a light coat of whatever oil you'll be using in the engine if it will be started shortly after being built. I have talked to one or two guys who said they have sometimes used some assembly lube on the rings if they know the engine will sit. That Lucas brand oil stabilizer though, it's interesting because while it is quite thick on its own, when it gets mixed into engine oil it doesn't really make the oil noticeably any thicker but it does make it stickier. I've been adding it 1:4 with conventional penzoil 10w30 with every oil change into my old HO motor for several years now. Never noticed any changes like slower cranking as though I was running a heavier oil. I have noticed slightly better oil pressure, less oil consumption and slower leaking at the rear main though (engine has just over 300K original kms on it). As far as lubricating this engine build goes however, I'm not planning to mix it nearly so rich - more like 1:16. Well, you share a name with the product, but I wouldn't want anything "sticky" above the rings. Think of how many engines that have been parked for years and restart without engine damage... And they don't have any cylinder lube except what got scraped off when they were parked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lima Delta Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Think of how many engines that have been parked for years and restart without engine damage... Well, that's true enough. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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