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Zinc oil


Fordboy300

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I'm planning to use Rotella T4 10w30 in my rebuilt 351W (rebuild still in progress) which is the same as I run in my tractor. Will be nice to not have to keep so many different kinds of oil around.

I was thinking for the break-in of adding some Lucas brand heavy-duty oil stabilizer and their break-in additive. The stabilizer because the short block will be sitting for some months before it gets swapped in, and the additive because I'm thinking there's not enough ZDDP without it to break-in the cam. Does this sound reasonable?

I'm no expert on oils, but I've come to really like the oil stabilizer I mentioned. It's really helped extend the useful life of my existing high-mileage HO motor, and it's so sticky I'm using it as assembly lube in its replacement.

I used to use STP as assembly lube.

Then they had to take the ZDDP out....

So now I use the strawberry jelly everyone sells for cam and lifters.

I think the bottle I have now is Permatex.

Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation?

Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup.

Were it me, I would run Brad Penn for the first 600 miles and then go straight to Rotella.

But do whatever you're comfortable with. :nabble_smiley_good:

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I used to use STP as assembly lube.

Then they had to take the ZDDP out....

So now I use the strawberry jelly everyone sells for cam and lifters.

I think the bottle I have now is Permatex.

Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation?

Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup.

Were it me, I would run Brad Penn for the first 600 miles and then go straight to Rotella.

But do whatever you're comfortable with. :nabble_smiley_good:

what im going to do with my engine build, im going to use assembly lube then prime the system before final assembly make sure everything is oiling properly then it should be good to go even if the engine sits a month before installation the assembly lube shouldnt fully wash off from a simple prime and check of the oil system.

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Personally I recommend VR1, it has higher zinc content and can get around the regulations by labeling it as a racing oil. It also has lower detergent so it wont overly clean your engine and cause oil leaks.

I respectfully disagree with "overly clean an engine"

This is a new build.

There is no sludge in there now, and a good detergent package will keep it from getting that way.

I've used nothing but diesel oil since I installed this engine and it is clean as a whistle inside.

The oil pan gasket is leaking because it has cracked. I should have used a better one than the rebuilder supplied.

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I used to use STP as assembly lube.

Then they had to take the ZDDP out....

So now I use the strawberry jelly everyone sells for cam and lifters.

I think the bottle I have now is Permatex.

Why would your engine sit months between break in and installation?

Just pull the distributor and prime the oiling system before startup.

Were it me, I would run Brad Penn for the first 600 miles and then go straight to Rotella.

But do whatever you're comfortable with. :nabble_smiley_good:

what im going to do with my engine build, im going to use assembly lube then prime the system before final assembly make sure everything is oiling properly then it should be good to go even if the engine sits a month before installation the assembly lube shouldnt fully wash off from a simple prime and check of the oil system.

Rusty, he said "break in"...

I'm assuming that means 20 minutes at 2k for the cam and then a few dyno pulls until the rings seat and the bearings loosen up?

That's certainly enough to wash the assembly lube.

I get priming, just to see oil flowing out the pushrods.

But I don't think that is the situation here.

 

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Rusty, he said "break in"...

I'm assuming that means 20 minutes at 2k for the cam and then a few dyno pulls until the rings seat and the bearings loosen up?

That's certainly enough to wash the assembly lube.

I get priming, just to see oil flowing out the pushrods.

But I don't think that is the situation here.

Jim - do you use T4 15w40 or T4 10W30? Year around?

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Just did an oil change on the original 1973 Bronco 302 Used high mileage Valvoline and a bottle of ZDDP

Not high mileage* but I like Valvoline Conventional (with Lucas ZDDP). The last year I've had a hard time finding Valvoline Conventional 10w-30 locally. Either no longer carried or rarely in stock. Would also like to settle on something I don't have to add anything to.

*Meaning I just haven't used it, not that I don't like it :nabble_smiley_beam:

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Jim - do you use T4 15w40 or T4 10W30? Year around?

I use all kind of diesel oil Scott.

Delo, Delvac, Rotella, Supertech, whatever...

I got on the diesel kick when they actually had high levels of ZDDP and used T-6 exclusively in my Exes Isuzu 3.2 V6 which were notorious for coking up their compression rings.

Reminds me it's time for a spring change.

I use 15-40 in summer.

 

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I use all kind of diesel oil Scott.

Delo, Delvac, Rotella, Supertech, whatever...

I got on the diesel kick when they actually had high levels of ZDDP and used T-6 exclusively in my Exes Isuzu 3.2 V6 which were notorious for coking up their compression rings.

Reminds me it's time for a spring change.

I use 15-40 in summer.

Thanks Jim :nabble_smiley_good:

Once I use up the remaining 10w-30/Lucas bottles I like the simplicity of T4 10w30 for the fall change and T4 15w40 for the spring.

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