Recommendations for EFI fuel system

[Gary Lewis]

They are Prime

https://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Stainless-Coated-Locking-11-8inch/dp/B07XXNJJ6R/ref=asc_df_B07XXNJJ6R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385184478202&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9755357486575574977&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003439&hvtargid=pla-829429952829&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77282054623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385184478202&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9755357486575574977&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003439&hvtargid=pla-829429952829

Like I said, used for header wrap and heat shields.

Thanks, Jim. Might have to get some, just in case.

But I'm yet-again surprised with the Chinese/English translation. I would think they'd hire someone that really knows English so we would be presented with things like:

• Product Properties:Under double newton power,Self Locking,Can't be separated after button up.

• Product Packing: Coming with a transparent bag,100 pcs all in the bag,Not Happy with jewelry?

But I guess this makes it interesting?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. Might have to get some, just in case.

But I'm yet-again surprised with the Chinese/English translation. I would think they'd hire someone that really knows English so we would be presented with things like:

• Product Properties:Under double newton power,Self Locking,Can't be separated after button up.

• Product Packing: Coming with a transparent bag,100 pcs all in the bag,Not Happy with jewelry?

But I guess this makes it interesting?

It is odd.

Almost like some sellers are playing dumb.

I got that once on eBay, where the seller in Shenzhen just ran the clock out on Paypal's window of contention.

As soon as I was powerless there was no problem with communication.

I think a lot more Chinese speak fluent english than Americans speak Mandarin.

And Google translate works pretty well, if it has some context.

But that seems like a literal textbook translation.

[Gary Lewis]

It is odd.

Almost like some sellers are playing dumb.

I got that once on eBay, where the seller in Shenzhen just ran the clock out on Paypal's window of contention.

As soon as I was powerless there was no problem with communication.

I think a lot more Chinese speak fluent english than Americans speak Mandarin.

And Google translate works pretty well, if it has some context.

But that seems like a literal textbook translation.

I'm confident that a lot more Chinese speak English than the other way 'round. Our daughter teaches English to Chinese children, as do other people we know, so there is a clamoring for it over there. And so many of them have learned that she said some are now moving on to Spanish.

So I'm at a loss to explain why we get such poor translations in our adverts. I can understand why some eBay sellers want you to think they are illiterate so you think you can take advantage of them. But there's no way to take advantage of advertisers when buying from Amazon. And being able to tell from the advert that something has come from China is a turn OFF to me. So why not spend just a little bit and have someone that knows the language vet the advert?

[Rusty_S85]

So here is my solution realized. I took the 85-86 hanger that JBG sells and cut off the pick-up tube just above the bend. That was the only modification I had to make to the hanger and I imagine you could do the same with any unit regardless of where you got it or who made it.

The biggest problem I had was staying within the 2" limitation of the hole cut for the hanger. I am using an Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump with an offset outlet and inlet and a 39mm body. at 2 I'm dealing with 50.8mm to work with total, so that leaves only 11.8mm to work with along side the pump.

2 important "discoveries" I found in actually constructing and fitting: 1) a standard 1.75" hose clamp fitting will usually have a "worm screw and socket" that sticks out further than 11.8mm, and 2) the lowest part of the pump has to be high enough up that the sender float can be completely inserted in the hole before the pump goes in.

To get around the worm screw problem, I found SS zip ties. These things are GAME CHANGERS. Y'all may know about these already, but to me it was a fabulous discovery. They are easy to snug on and they only stick out a few millimeters. I used the zip ties to hold on 2 M3 SS threaded rods which I clamped on to the hanger. By keeping the rods just about straight, the pump inlet will be moved slightly forward in the tank by a couple of inches. In my case that's preferable since I'm using a 15x3 Hydramat with an offset connector so it should sit right in the middle.

The length of the pump is such that the hose between the pump and the hanger only has to be about 1.5-1.75 inches long and can be completely straight. Also, the M3 rods are sturdy enough, but if you put a hose clamp around the rods and hose, you can easily bend the rods to effectively make the unit "shorter" and move the inlet a little more towards the center.

Why didnt you reuse the old hanger from the sending unit?

The 85/86 sender I used for a 5.0 coyote swap in a '82 F150 at work we reused the stock 85/86 sender pulled the lift pump off and installed a walbro pump in the saddle with a short piece of rubber EFI hose with EFI hose clamps like OE.

That is the same thing I am going to do with my truck on the sniper EFI, throw a 255 LPH Walbro pump into the OE hanger on a '85-86 sending unit with EFI hose clamps and a 11mm inlet hydramat from Holley unless I can figure out a way of attaching home made baffles to the fuel tank without welding.

[Littlebeefy]

Why didnt you reuse the old hanger from the sending unit?

The 85/86 sender I used for a 5.0 coyote swap in a '82 F150 at work we reused the stock 85/86 sender pulled the lift pump off and installed a walbro pump in the saddle with a short piece of rubber EFI hose with EFI hose clamps like OE.

That is the same thing I am going to do with my truck on the sniper EFI, throw a 255 LPH Walbro pump into the OE hanger on a '85-86 sending unit with EFI hose clamps and a 11mm inlet hydramat from Holley unless I can figure out a way of attaching home made baffles to the fuel tank without welding.

I didn’t reuse the old hanger because my truck is a carbed 84 so the hanger does not have a return. I needed a return for the EFI but wanted the level sender to be the same so I used an 85-86 unit.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the final installation:

[Rusty_S85]

I didn’t reuse the old hanger because my truck is a carbed 84 so the hanger does not have a return. I needed a return for the EFI but wanted the level sender to be the same so I used an 85-86 unit.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the final installation:

I understand you used a 85/86 unit why did you cut the cradle off the OE 85/86 unit is my question. Ive installed walbro pumps using the OE hanger with no need to modify it.

Use the OE rubber grommet for the 85/86 sender but instead of using the OE lift pump install a walbro high pressure pump in its place. Worse case you might have to trim a little off the hardline that is above the pump for clearance but that is about the worse youd have to do.

[85lebaront2]

I didn’t reuse the old hanger because my truck is a carbed 84 so the hanger does not have a return. I needed a return for the EFI but wanted the level sender to be the same so I used an 85-86 unit.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the final installation:

One thing I will warn you, I learned the hard way on my 1985 LeBaron convertible. The worm clamps will (a) cut into the hose and (b) work loose. I was lucky, it never caught fire but was constantly leaking at the clamped joints. I found some very nice clamps on Amazon. These are for the 5/16" line Chrysler uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU0HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Rusty_S85]

One thing I will warn you, I learned the hard way on my 1985 LeBaron convertible. The worm clamps will (a) cut into the hose and (b) work loose. I was lucky, it never caught fire but was constantly leaking at the clamped joints. I found some very nice clamps on Amazon. These are for the 5/16" line Chrysler uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CU0HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are fuel injection hose clamps that is what you should use on in tank fuel pumps if you dont use the crimp fittings.

It is what I will be using on mine as they are reuseable and they provide a better grip without tearing the hose.

[85lebaront2]

Those are fuel injection hose clamps that is what you should use on in tank fuel pumps if you dont use the crimp fittings.

It is what I will be using on mine as they are reuseable and they provide a better grip without tearing the hose.

Rusty, considering the pressure the Chrysler turbo engines run (55 static, rising on mine to 70 under full boost) any leak can get messy and with the #1 exhaust port under the connection to the fuel rail, potentially a flaming mess.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, considering the pressure the Chrysler turbo engines run (55 static, rising on mine to 70 under full boost) any leak can get messy and with the #1 exhaust port under the connection to the fuel rail, potentially a flaming mess.

Correct, it is a big reason why I am going metal hardline along the frame I think I might be able to snap the Inline Tube 3/8" stainless steel fuel line into the OE clips the 5/16" line is snapped into. From there the barb on the fuel pump side will be cut off and the hardline will have a -6 AN tube nut and sleeve installed and crimped on my new AN flaring die set for my Eastwood bench flare tool. The short piece of rubber line at the engine will go from where the fuel pump would normally be bolted to this new 3/8" flared hardline using -6 male AN hose ends, preferably one that you can reassemble but I think that short of a fuel hose run might be a problem with the required nylon braided hose being how stiff it is. But my personal goal is to have as much metal hardline as possible under the hood and along the driverside header and Y pipe on back to the pressure regulator that I will be mounting on the frame rail. Only extensive use of hose will be from the pressure regulator to the fuel tank sending unit only because I cant come up with a way to make a hardline connection with female quick disconnects. The outlet side of the Corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator I will make a hardline connection as I can rent locally the male hardline flare tool for the male quick disconnect. But only thing I could do would be flare some left over annealed stainless 3/8 hardline from plumbing the sniper on the engine and use the female quick disconnects and attach it to the hardline and form it around the fuel tank in a OE fashion and then use rubber from the frame behind the fuel tank to the sending unit. Thankfully with quick disconnect I should be able to reach up on top and squeeze the aftermarket Earls quick disconnect fittings to disconnect them before I drop the tank if I have to.

I just cant picture how I could do the hardline from the filter/regulator back to the tank till I am under the truck with the old fuel tank out and the 85/86 fuel tank on hand and mock it up to see how I can go about it. I just know for a OE factory quality build I really want to limit how much rubber, the quick and easy way would be like we do at work and run the earls vapor guard hose from the tank to the sniper like Holley wants but with the fuel tank out and the engine out I should be able to get the OE 5/16" hardline disconnected from the frame and pulled out of the way and slip the larger 3/8" line in place after I chop it down to size to fit my modified application. Hopefully I can find a hole already in the frame that I can either use a self taper body bolt to afix the fuel filter/regulator to or one that I can pass a bolt/washer/nut through as I dont want to go drilling into my frame if I dont have to.

Im really looking forward to doing the plumbing and cant wait to post what I come up with on here for plumbing to make the sniper stealth look like a plain old carb and not EFI. I also look forward to seeing how long that holley fuel mat lasts, what I seen online it seems for an average vehicle you should get some 65,000 miles or 6 years out of it. I hope its longer than that as I dont want to go dropping my tank every 6 years to replace that mat especially considering how expensive it is. Only reason why I am personally trying to figure out how I could put some baffling around the low sump area of the 85/86 tank that wouldnt require welding. Im afraid of burning a hole through the bottom of the tank and I also dont want to cut the top of the tank open myself. The guy I was going to have to do it wants too much money for fabrication so Im thinking about some kind of brazing where I can go through the large fuel pump/sending unit opening with a propane torch to heat the area and use a magnet to hold it in place till I can get it brazed into place. I just dont know if there is a better option such as epoxy or something that would be fuel resistant E85 resistant (wont run it but be nice to know E10 wont effect it) and something that can be strong enough to resist sloshing fuel from breaking it loose. If I can do this it would effectively make the holley fuel mat pointless for me and I can run just the plain old stock pick up sock that lasts 150,000 - 200,000 miles with no problem.