scbill Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 What is the problem? I haven't heard of a lot of wiring problems. Yes, the ICVR is a problem, but not usually the wiring. None of the gauges are working, except amp and tach, I plan to do the DE-SWADJ 3A Adjustable Voltage Regulator that you have posted on the ICVR page, looks like easiest simplest solution. I have tried different regulators but all have different results, none close to accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 None of the gauges are working, except amp and tach, I plan to do the DE-SWADJ 3A Adjustable Voltage Regulator that you have posted on the ICVR page, looks like easiest simplest solution. I have tried different regulators but all have different results, none close to accurate. You will like it. I set my voltage to 5.4v, but you could tune it to your fuel level sender. Fill a tank full and set the voltage to give Full on the gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 None of the gauges are working, except amp and tach, I plan to do the DE-SWADJ 3A Adjustable Voltage Regulator that you have posted on the ICVR page, looks like easiest simplest solution. I have tried different regulators but all have different results, none close to accurate. If no gauges are working, it screams instrument regulator. Having an adjustable one would sure add some effectiveness to the readings, especially gas gauge as mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 If no gauges are working, it screams instrument regulator. Having an adjustable one would sure add some effectiveness to the readings, especially gas gauge as mentioned. I've tried three, or more regulators, results from barely working gauges to not at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I've tried three, or more regulators, results from barely working gauges to not at all. Well, if you go with the SWAD-Just you can cut out the resistance wire, no? Have you tried testing for voltage at the ICVR connector? Be sure to give it some kind of load, so you can tell if the resistor in the harness is actually pulling it down. I think it was Matt Wood in England that used an infrared camera to find his ignition coil resistor in the harness behind the cluster. But I don't know if the three senders for the gauges would be enough load to really heat that one up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I've tried three, or more regulators, results from barely working gauges to not at all. By the way, I need to point out that the gauges are actually thermometers and the power we feed them heats them up. So that takes time to kick in. In other words, if you turn the voltage up give it at least a minute, and maybe two, before deciding that wasn't enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 By the way, I need to point out that the gauges are actually thermometers and the power we feed them heats them up. So that takes time to kick in. In other words, if you turn the voltage up give it at least a minute, and maybe two, before deciding that wasn't enough. Ship-night.... It's amazing to me that these tiny springs (filaments?) Can be so accurately calibrated for loss of tension when they heat up. We all know that grounding the sender wire is a delicate situation where you can't leave it too long or you'll ruin the spring temper of the instrument. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Ship-night.... It's amazing to me that these tiny springs (filaments?) Can be so accurately calibrated for loss of tension when they heat up. We all know that grounding the sender wire is a delicate situation where you can't leave it too long or you'll ruin the spring temper of the instrument. They are essentially the same as the round wall thermostats that had an "anticipator" circuit in them to heat them up just a bit to cut the response time. But in our case the anticipator is much bigger. As for the tiny springs, just think about the shock those things endure when we bounce down the road. How can they last? But they seem to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 They are essentially the same as the round wall thermostats that had an "anticipator" circuit in them to heat them up just a bit to cut the response time. But in our case the anticipator is much bigger. As for the tiny springs, just think about the shock those things endure when we bounce down the road. How can they last? But they seem to do so. They're not really supporting anything but themselves, right? So, do we know what voltage the ICVR should see? I haven't gone through the troubleshooting in the EVTM because I don't have gauges like that or an ICVR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 They're not really supporting anything but themselves, right? So, do we know what voltage the ICVR should see? I haven't gone through the troubleshooting in the EVTM because I don't have gauges like that or an ICVR. Hard to say what voltage the ICVR sees because the current varies so much. It takes ~.2a to take a gauge to full scale, so if all three are at full scale then there will be .6a and if the battery voltage is 14v then the drop will be about 5v, meaning the ICVR will see ~9v. And if the gauges aren't at full scale the voltage will be closer to battery voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts