1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

[Atlas75]

I finally had a little time to research the snow plow package that this truck came with. Following Gary's advise I used the 1981 Dealer Facts Book to uncover the following about F350's (Other models included different things).

There are two levels of show plow packages. Snow plow special (SPS) and snow plow special plus (SPSP).

Here is what was included:

Gauges - Ammeter and oil pressure (SPSP)

Clearance lights - (SPS)

Multi-surface tires - (SPS)

Shock absorbers - heavy duty front and rear (not quad) (SPS)

Battery - 63 amp hr (also included with 400/C6 combination) (SPSP)

Cooling Package - I have no idea what is included in this yet (SPSP)

Just to be thorough and complete with what is included in the 1980 snow plow prep package I was able to get my hands on a 1980 dealer facts book. This is what it lists for the snow plow prep package in the options section of the book.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just to be thorough and complete with what is included in the 1980 snow plow prep package I was able to get my hands on a 1980 dealer facts book. This is what it lists for the snow plow prep package in the options section of the book.

Ah, so it did get a group 65 battery and 70A alternator!

I assumed it would have super cooling and a tranny cooler if C6.

[Gary Lewis]

Just to be thorough and complete with what is included in the 1980 snow plow prep package I was able to get my hands on a 1980 dealer facts book. This is what it lists for the snow plow prep package in the options section of the book.

Good job, Carl.

But I rotated it to make it easier to read.

[Atlas75]

Ah, so it did get a group 65 battery and 70A alternator!

I assumed it would have super cooling and a tranny cooler if C6.

Yes, you were correct. The funny part is the only place that the 70 amp alternator is listed is with the snow plow prep package. If I look at alternators under the options section they list 60 amp and 100 amp as options (100 on econoline and club wagon only). Otherwise 40 amp was standard.

[Atlas75]

Good job, Carl.

But I rotated it to make it easier to read.

Thanks Gary. I didn't take the photo that way so I wasn't sure why it posted it sideways.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary. I didn't take the photo that way so I wasn't sure why it posted it sideways.

This forum, like most forums, doesn't read the camera's orientation info in the picture. So you have to orient the picture in another app, like I did. I opened the pic in Photoshop and rotated it 90 degrees. Then I used the Levels tool to make the paper white and saved it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, you were correct. The funny part is the only place that the 70 amp alternator is listed is with the snow plow prep package. If I look at alternators under the options section they list 60 amp and 100 amp as options (100 on econoline and club wagon only). Otherwise 40 amp was standard.

The 100A unit is for ambulance and cutaway vans intended for things like vending trucks (think ice cream or tacos, with lots of auxiliary lighting)

 

[Atlas75]

Thanks for the photo Shaun! That gives me something to go by as I try to figure out this truck. I do know it was repainted as that is not "medium gray metallic" though I do see remnants of the original color in the door jams and other places. So it is possible the molding was removed during the repaint. The fender badging was removed also.

Ok, now to clear up the lower bodyside molding questions(referred to as molding from here forward). Again, this is from the 1980 dealer facts book. This information is not all found together in the book but rather from various sections. The 1980 F series had 5 trim levels. Custom, Ranger, Ranger XLT, Ranger Lariat, and Free Wheeling. The Custom had no molding standard. The Ranger and Ranger XLT used the brushed aluminum molding (as seen on Shaun's truck photo on the first page of this thread). The Ranger Lariat used the brushed aluminum with the black vinyl inserts.

Now...when it comes to molding options, the only ones I see listed in the options section for lower bodyside are the ones with the vinyl insert (same as used on Ranger Lariat).

So in 1980 it seems like there were both styles of moldings available. Brushed aluminum and brushed aluminum with vinyl inserts.

I think this explains how a Custom trim truck (mine) is listed in the Marti report as having lower body side moldings. It also tells me I was looking for the wrong molding...and thank goodness because looking for the brushed aluminum was like trying to find a unicorn!

[Atlas75]

Ok, now to clear up the lower bodyside molding questions(referred to as molding from here forward). Again, this is from the 1980 dealer facts book. This information is not all found together in the book but rather from various sections. The 1980 F series had 5 trim levels. Custom, Ranger, Ranger XLT, Ranger Lariat, and Free Wheeling. The Custom had no molding standard. The Ranger and Ranger XLT used the brushed aluminum molding (as seen on Shaun's truck photo on the first page of this thread). The Ranger Lariat used the brushed aluminum with the black vinyl inserts.

Now...when it comes to molding options, the only ones I see listed in the options section for lower bodyside are the ones with the vinyl insert (same as used on Ranger Lariat).

So in 1980 it seems like there were both styles of moldings available. Brushed aluminum and brushed aluminum with vinyl inserts.

I think this explains how a Custom trim truck (mine) is listed in the Marti report as having lower body side moldings. It also tells me I was looking for the wrong molding...and thank goodness because looking for the brushed aluminum was like trying to find a unicorn!

What a wonderful day it was being able to work on the truck outside in the warm sun! I was able to get a few things accomplished. It started with the accelerator pump on the carburetor. I disassembled it earlier in the week and ordered a new diaphragm from Mikes carburetor parts (thanks for the recommendation to use them, they were very helpful). As it turns out the pump was assembled incorrectly with the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm. That is why the pin was not in contact with the actuator arm. It needed a new diaphragm anyway as the original one was dry rotted and had cracks in it. There is no more hesitation when you press on the gas pedal!

From there we moved to some wiring. I replaced the 4 pin connector with a new one I found at the auto parts store. It needed to be changed because the wire for the temp sensor had disintegrated and there was nothing left to splice into. I was hoping replacing the wire would get the temp gauge to work but no dice. I think the gauge is OK because the disintegrated wire had grounded out once and the gauge did move. I guess I’ll be changing the sending unit out in the future.

From there we moved to the alternator. I was able to find a new plug on eBay and wired it in. So we now have a wire from the stator to the choke.

After all that I started it up. It seemed to start a little more difficult than normal and didn’t idle very well. Once warm, I adjusted the idle and the mixture screws and it seemed to settle in. I wonder if the choke needs adjustment now that it is actually hooked up. Any tips on how to do that and what to look out for?

Next I want to turn my attention to the vibration I felt driving it home. Initially I thought upper and lower ball joints were the cause but when I jacked up the front end and checked for movement I couldn’t seem to get any. Today when I had it running I shifted it between reverse and drive and I did hear a pinging noise so now I am thinking u-joints. Does that make sense? Are there any other possible culprits for a pretty good vibration above 40 ish MPH?

As always, thanks for the insight and help as I try to spruce up this truck!

[Gary Lewis]

What a wonderful day it was being able to work on the truck outside in the warm sun! I was able to get a few things accomplished. It started with the accelerator pump on the carburetor. I disassembled it earlier in the week and ordered a new diaphragm from Mikes carburetor parts (thanks for the recommendation to use them, they were very helpful). As it turns out the pump was assembled incorrectly with the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm. That is why the pin was not in contact with the actuator arm. It needed a new diaphragm anyway as the original one was dry rotted and had cracks in it. There is no more hesitation when you press on the gas pedal!

From there we moved to some wiring. I replaced the 4 pin connector with a new one I found at the auto parts store. It needed to be changed because the wire for the temp sensor had disintegrated and there was nothing left to splice into. I was hoping replacing the wire would get the temp gauge to work but no dice. I think the gauge is OK because the disintegrated wire had grounded out once and the gauge did move. I guess I’ll be changing the sending unit out in the future.

From there we moved to the alternator. I was able to find a new plug on eBay and wired it in. So we now have a wire from the stator to the choke.

After all that I started it up. It seemed to start a little more difficult than normal and didn’t idle very well. Once warm, I adjusted the idle and the mixture screws and it seemed to settle in. I wonder if the choke needs adjustment now that it is actually hooked up. Any tips on how to do that and what to look out for?

Next I want to turn my attention to the vibration I felt driving it home. Initially I thought upper and lower ball joints were the cause but when I jacked up the front end and checked for movement I couldn’t seem to get any. Today when I had it running I shifted it between reverse and drive and I did hear a pinging noise so now I am thinking u-joints. Does that make sense? Are there any other possible culprits for a pretty good vibration above 40 ish MPH?

As always, thanks for the insight and help as I try to spruce up this truck!

You are really doing well.

On the choke, I like to set them almost closed with the engine cold. Leave maybe a 1/16" gap? But "cold" is a very relative term and you won't get it right on the first try.

As for having to adjust the idle mix to get it to start and idle well, that accelerator pump has been leaking fuel into the mix and now you've eliminated that source of fuel and had to add it back with the needles.

Well done, Carl!