Atlas75 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 Carl, looking at the first photo your plate should be vertical when warm. The choke should close all the way when cold, and you open the throttle to release the linkage. Then when the engine starts, the throttle should crack open like the first photo. As the choke spring warms up, the choke plate should continue to open. To vertical when the engine is finally up to temperature. I should have mentioned that the first photo was a “cold” engine. That said, the ambient temp this morning when I took the pictures was 75 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 Yes, the choke is closed about right in the 2nd pic. However, the vacuum pulloff, circled in yellow, will open the choke farther as soon as the engine starts, and I'm betting it'll open it too much and the engine will stall. In addition, the choke isn't nearly fully open in the first pic. But, that may be due to bi-metallic spring trying to close it since the engine is cold and the fast idle linkage not allowing it. So you should take a pic of the choke with the engine fully warmed up. I’ll see if I can get a few more pics tomorrow morning. It will be cooler also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 I’ll see if I can get a few more pics tomorrow morning. It will be cooler also. What is an RPO bumper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 What is an RPO bumper? Probably Regular Purchase Order, which I think would mean if the truck came from the factory with a bumper. So, what publication do you have? It shows the ground w/o the bumper to go to G1004 and with the bumper to G1001, which is exactly backwards from what the 1981 EVTM shows, below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 Probably Regular Purchase Order, which I think would mean if the truck came from the factory with a bumper. So, what publication do you have? It shows the ground w/o the bumper to go to G1004 and with the bumper to G1001, which is exactly backwards from what the 1981 EVTM shows, below. I have the 1980 EVTM. The photo I took is from the page on rear turn signals/running lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 I have the 1980 EVTM. The photo I took is from the page on rear turn signals/running lights. Interesting! So the documentation changed from '80 to '81. Below is what the '81 EVTM says for the placement of G1001 and G1004, and both say "On frame forward of LH rear light assembly". In other words, the same position, and that doesn't make sense so I'm betting one of those is wrong. But the 1980 EVTM says G1001 is "On "D" pillar reinforcement, forward of L.H. rear lamps", and G1004 is "Attached lower L.H. side panel". At least they are different from each other, which makes sense and I'd bet it is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Interesting! So the documentation changed from '80 to '81. Below is what the '81 EVTM says for the placement of G1001 and G1004, and both say "On frame forward of LH rear light assembly". In other words, the same position, and that doesn't make sense so I'm betting one of those is wrong. But the 1980 EVTM says G1001 is "On "D" pillar reinforcement, forward of L.H. rear lamps", and G1004 is "Attached lower L.H. side panel". At least they are different from each other, which makes sense and I'd bet it is correct. But, I'm pretty sure we know that RPO must mean a regular production option bumper, 'cause in '81 it just says "with bumper" and "without bumper", and the documentation is for how it left the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted August 29, 2021 Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 But, I'm pretty sure we know that RPO must mean a regular production option bumper, 'cause in '81 it just says "with bumper" and "without bumper", and the documentation is for how it left the factory. I’m guessing mine must have come with a bumper from the factory as I have two pair of wires hanging down behind my current bumper (which is not factory). Passenger side wires. One hot, one ground. Drivers side wires. One hot, one ground. The wire sticking out of the steel leads to the current license plate light. I’m guessing the empty butt connector was hooked to it at one time. I think I also discovered the cause of my electrical issue where both turn signals will blink when the lever in the cab is in either position. Something is not right with this. Maybe it is just dirt and crud and/or bad ground but as I was messing with it, I was able to get each side to blink individually. I scraped a bunch of crud out of this connector. Is there anything I can spray into the connector to flush it that won’t hurt the wires or the plastic? That single connector is the ground and it goes up to the rear cross member and anchors there. It looks crusty at the cross member but my test light did ground on it. Anything else I should try other than a good cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 I’m guessing mine must have come with a bumper from the factory as I have two pair of wires hanging down behind my current bumper (which is not factory). Passenger side wires. One hot, one ground. Drivers side wires. One hot, one ground. The wire sticking out of the steel leads to the current license plate light. I’m guessing the empty butt connector was hooked to it at one time. I think I also discovered the cause of my electrical issue where both turn signals will blink when the lever in the cab is in either position. Something is not right with this. Maybe it is just dirt and crud and/or bad ground but as I was messing with it, I was able to get each side to blink individually. I scraped a bunch of crud out of this connector. Is there anything I can spray into the connector to flush it that won’t hurt the wires or the plastic? That single connector is the ground and it goes up to the rear cross member and anchors there. It looks crusty at the cross member but my test light did ground on it. Anything else I should try other than a good cleaning? CRC QD electronic cleaner is intended for corrosion and gunk in plastic connectors. https://www.crcindustries.com/products/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05103.html "PRODUCT No. 05103 QD® ELECTRONIC CLEANER, 11 WT OZ DESCRIPTION Cleaning delicate equipment is a critical job to perform on many electronics. Due to the delicate nature of electronic components, not all cleaners are suitable. CRC QD® Electronic Cleaner is designed for precision cleaning on electronic equipment. It is plastic safe and formulated for use on sensitive electronic parts, including electronic circuits, lighting, plugs, computer components, switches, contacts, and even electronic parts in automotive applications. APPLICATIONS Circuit breakers, circuits, coin mechanisms, computer components, contacts, electronics, fiberglass, flux removal, sockets, lighting, plastics, nylon, plugs, relay switches, PVC, PTFE, tape heads, terminals." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 CRC QD electronic cleaner is intended for corrosion and gunk in plastic connectors. https://www.crcindustries.com/products/qd-174-electronic-cleaner-11-wt-oz-05103.html "PRODUCT No. 05103 QD® ELECTRONIC CLEANER, 11 WT OZ DESCRIPTION Cleaning delicate equipment is a critical job to perform on many electronics. Due to the delicate nature of electronic components, not all cleaners are suitable. CRC QD® Electronic Cleaner is designed for precision cleaning on electronic equipment. It is plastic safe and formulated for use on sensitive electronic parts, including electronic circuits, lighting, plugs, computer components, switches, contacts, and even electronic parts in automotive applications. APPLICATIONS Circuit breakers, circuits, coin mechanisms, computer components, contacts, electronics, fiberglass, flux removal, sockets, lighting, plastics, nylon, plugs, relay switches, PVC, PTFE, tape heads, terminals." Yep, I like that CRC cleaner. Use that and clean the ground and you might have them working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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