ArdWrknTrk Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 I received my box of goodies from RockAuto but before I dive in I have a bearing question. I keep reading differing opinions on how to prep the bearings for install. Some say to pack them with grease for initial use and then over time the differential fluid will wash it away and the bearings will be lubed by the differential fluid. Others say to fill the center of the hub with differential fluid and that will be enough for start up. I have read other variants on these themes as well including soaking them in the differential fluid before install. Which method gives the bearing the best shot at a long life? Ford and Dana both say to grease the bearing before installation. I think I would go with that. But do oil a new seal. You don't want them installed or starting dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 Ford and Dana both say to grease the bearing before installation. I think I would go with that. But do oil a new seal. You don't want them installed or starting dry. I was able to spend time working on the passenger side rear brakes again today. I started by replacing the wheel cylinder and brake line. Everything was going well until I went to mount the front brake shoe. Up near the top it was stamped with “this side out”. The problem was that in order to keep that orientation the shoe would be on backwards. I quickly realized that whom ever did the last rear brake job put the front shoes on the wrong side! So now I was faced with a decision. Do I get new shoes so I can get the correct shoe on the passenger side or do I tear the other side apart and swap shoes. After checking on the price of new shoes, I ultimately decided to tear apart the other side and swap the shoes. In the long run I’m glad I decided to tear apart the drivers side too. When I removed the hub, I found a broken spring, a frozen adjuster, and the cable to adjust the shoes was off the track. I also noticed the outer cup for the bearing had 1 small mark on it. It was deep enough that I could feel it with my finger nail so I’ll be replacing that as well. And oh my the silicone! Whomever had the axels out previously put way to much silicone on the axel shaft flange when they reinstalled the axel. It was way down in the bolt holes and all over in places it should not be. Anyway, after swapping shoes I was able to get the brakes on both sides completed. Tomorrow I’m going to try and get the passenger side hub ready to be installed. I’ll need to order new bearings and a wheel seal for the drivers side. As far as the axel shaft bolts are concerned…I have read that they should not be reused. How critical is this? They seem pretty expensive and spending that kind of money on 16 new bolts is a tough pill to swallow. One more question. When I finally have both rear tires back on is it safe to move the truck in the driveway knowing how much fluid came out doing the brakes? I will need to get it to level ground to drain and change the differential fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 I was able to spend time working on the passenger side rear brakes again today. I started by replacing the wheel cylinder and brake line. Everything was going well until I went to mount the front brake shoe. Up near the top it was stamped with “this side out”. The problem was that in order to keep that orientation the shoe would be on backwards. I quickly realized that whom ever did the last rear brake job put the front shoes on the wrong side! So now I was faced with a decision. Do I get new shoes so I can get the correct shoe on the passenger side or do I tear the other side apart and swap shoes. After checking on the price of new shoes, I ultimately decided to tear apart the other side and swap the shoes. In the long run I’m glad I decided to tear apart the drivers side too. When I removed the hub, I found a broken spring, a frozen adjuster, and the cable to adjust the shoes was off the track. I also noticed the outer cup for the bearing had 1 small mark on it. It was deep enough that I could feel it with my finger nail so I’ll be replacing that as well. And oh my the silicone! Whomever had the axels out previously put way to much silicone on the axel shaft flange when they reinstalled the axel. It was way down in the bolt holes and all over in places it should not be. Anyway, after swapping shoes I was able to get the brakes on both sides completed. Tomorrow I’m going to try and get the passenger side hub ready to be installed. I’ll need to order new bearings and a wheel seal for the drivers side. As far as the axel shaft bolts are concerned…I have read that they should not be reused. How critical is this? They seem pretty expensive and spending that kind of money on 16 new bolts is a tough pill to swallow. One more question. When I finally have both rear tires back on is it safe to move the truck in the driveway knowing how much fluid came out doing the brakes? I will need to get it to level ground to drain and change the differential fluid. You just need to be conscious of which side of the rear shoe you put the U shaped cable guide and the lower adjuster pivot pin onto when you get new shoes. That's why it says "This Side Out" I have to go back and look (as I know my 10.25 but not your Dana) but the axle bolts at the hub should be place bolts. These are slightly cupped on the bottom face and the head is crenelated, like a castle tower. They act as a spring when properly torqued, but they are not torque to yield. They are fine for reuse if the threads haven't been stretched from over tightening. Think of those bolts as having a very heavy bellville washer incorporated into the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 I was able to spend time working on the passenger side rear brakes again today. I started by replacing the wheel cylinder and brake line. Everything was going well until I went to mount the front brake shoe. Up near the top it was stamped with “this side out”. The problem was that in order to keep that orientation the shoe would be on backwards. I quickly realized that whom ever did the last rear brake job put the front shoes on the wrong side! So now I was faced with a decision. Do I get new shoes so I can get the correct shoe on the passenger side or do I tear the other side apart and swap shoes. After checking on the price of new shoes, I ultimately decided to tear apart the other side and swap the shoes. In the long run I’m glad I decided to tear apart the drivers side too. When I removed the hub, I found a broken spring, a frozen adjuster, and the cable to adjust the shoes was off the track. I also noticed the outer cup for the bearing had 1 small mark on it. It was deep enough that I could feel it with my finger nail so I’ll be replacing that as well. And oh my the silicone! Whomever had the axels out previously put way to much silicone on the axel shaft flange when they reinstalled the axel. It was way down in the bolt holes and all over in places it should not be. Anyway, after swapping shoes I was able to get the brakes on both sides completed. Tomorrow I’m going to try and get the passenger side hub ready to be installed. I’ll need to order new bearings and a wheel seal for the drivers side. As far as the axel shaft bolts are concerned…I have read that they should not be reused. How critical is this? They seem pretty expensive and spending that kind of money on 16 new bolts is a tough pill to swallow. One more question. When I finally have both rear tires back on is it safe to move the truck in the driveway knowing how much fluid came out doing the brakes? I will need to get it to level ground to drain and change the differential fluid. Good catch on the brakes and the bearing. Fix it all when you are in there. And I'm with Jim, I don't think the bolts need to be replaced. But where did you read that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 You just need to be conscious of which side of the rear shoe you put the U shaped cable guide and the lower adjuster pivot pin onto when you get new shoes. That's why it says "This Side Out" I have to go back and look (as I know my 10.25 but not your Dana) but the axle bolts at the hub should be place bolts. These are slightly cupped on the bottom face and the head is crenelated, like a castle tower. They act as a spring when properly torqued, but they are not torque to yield. They are fine for reuse if the threads haven't been stretched from over tightening. Think of those bolts as having a very heavy bellville washer incorporated into the head. My bolts don’t look like that. I’ll get a photo in a bit but they look like a normal bolt with a heavy split lock washer and they have something that looks like green lock tight on the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 Good catch on the brakes and the bearing. Fix it all when you are in there. And I'm with Jim, I don't think the bolts need to be replaced. But where did you read that? I’ll see if I can locate it and post a photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 My bolts don’t look like that. I’ll get a photo in a bit but they look like a normal bolt with a heavy split lock washer and they have something that looks like green lock tight on the threads. As I said, I don't know what the axle bolts look like on a D61... Not a big fan of split lock washers as I don't think they are effective at all and you can never get a proper torque on them. I would definitely go with some Loctite on the threads, and might consider bellville washers instead of split lock washers. They are much better at maintaining proper clamping pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 As I said, I don't know what the axle bolts look like on a D61... Not a big fan of split lock washers as I don't think they are effective at all and you can never get a proper torque on them. I would definitely go with some Loctite on the threads, and might consider bellville washers instead of split lock washers. They are much better at maintaining proper clamping pressure. Here are a few photos of the axel shaft bolts. All the bolt heads have the same markings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 I’ll see if I can locate it and post a photo. Here are the photos from the 1980 Ford truck manual. Step 3 says to remove and discard the bolts. Step 20 says to use new bolts. Step 20 also mentions making sure all metal is removed from the bolt holes. Like they are expecting some to be there. A few of the holes had some but not all. I was able to get it out with a small pic and a few squirts of brake clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Here are a few photos of the axel shaft bolts. All the bolt heads have the same markings. That's an Unbreako head stamp. They were one of the originators of socket head cap screws. (Allen bolts) There was of course Allen/Holochrome and SPS (Standard Pressed Steel) as well. If the manual says to replace them perhaps you should. But they are not waisted, and there is not a torque to X, then go 90°, or some language we would expect of a TTY fastener. Bill Vose would probably have good advice for a replacement. He spent years doing metallurgical testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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