Atlas75 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Share Posted June 9, 2021 And be sure not to overtighten those U-bolts. If you do the caps will distort and the needles will be toast in short order. (I've learned this lesson too many times now! ) I forget what the torque figure is, but it isn't as much as you might think. I sure hope I didn’t over tighten them! I used a short wrench and tightened them with the trans in neutral. So I could only tighten them as tight as I could hold the driveshaft from turning with my other hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 I sure hope I didn’t over tighten them! I used a short wrench and tightened them with the trans in neutral. So I could only tighten them as tight as I could hold the driveshaft from turning with my other hand. 12 for 5/16 and 20 for 3/8 if I recall. If you had the wheels off the ground I don't imagine you got them too tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 12 for 5/16 and 20 for 3/8 if I recall. If you had the wheels off the ground I don't imagine you got them too tight. Does anyone know the size of the rear axel spindle nut on a 1980 f350? I keep seeing 2 3/8 and 2 9/16 so I'm not sure which one I need. Update: I decided to just open it up and see since i need to get to the brakes anyway. Looks like 2 9/16 according to my tape measure. I ordered one on Amazon and as luck would have it, it will arrive tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 Does anyone know the size of the rear axel spindle nut on a 1980 f350? I keep seeing 2 3/8 and 2 9/16 so I'm not sure which one I need. Update: I decided to just open it up and see since i need to get to the brakes anyway. Looks like 2 9/16 according to my tape measure. I ordered one on Amazon and as luck would have it, it will arrive tomorrow! I thought I would switch gears a bit and work on the heater controls. My truck has the simple system with only temp, heat/defrost, and fan control so here is no vacuum. The cable out under the hood had been wired into a permanent position. I undid the wire and noticed pretty quickly that the reason it was wired was because he cable was frozen but it did wiggle just a little bit. I decided to spray penetrant into the cable and see if I could work it free. To my surprise, after many sprays and working it back and forth, it was moving reasonably well. Still needs more work but it is moving. Next I went into the cab and got to the controls and noticed the temp slider moved way to easily. After disassembly I realized someone had cut the cable! . Any ideas on how to reattach the cable or if there are replacements available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 I thought I would switch gears a bit and work on the heater controls. My truck has the simple system with only temp, heat/defrost, and fan control so here is no vacuum. The cable out under the hood had been wired into a permanent position. I undid the wire and noticed pretty quickly that the reason it was wired was because he cable was frozen but it did wiggle just a little bit. I decided to spray penetrant into the cable and see if I could work it free. To my surprise, after many sprays and working it back and forth, it was moving reasonably well. Still needs more work but it is moving. Next I went into the cab and got to the controls and noticed the temp slider moved way to easily. After disassembly I realized someone had cut the cable! . Any ideas on how to reattach the cable or if there are replacements available? That's a bummer! You got one cable freed up only to find the other one had been cut. To replace it you might get lucky and find one via the part number, shown below from our page at Documentation/HVAC. But more likely you'll have to go to a lawnmower shop and have them make you one. They might be able to use the old outer housing, or may just make a new one complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 That's a bummer! You got one cable freed up only to find the other one had been cut. To replace it you might get lucky and find one via the part number, shown below from our page at Documentation/HVAC. But more likely you'll have to go to a lawnmower shop and have them make you one. They might be able to use the old outer housing, or may just make a new one complete. I just found this but the part number is different. The clip on the end looks correct though. To bad it is out of stock. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/heater-amp-ac/heater-cables/e0tz-18552-a-air-control-cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 I just found this but the part number is different. The clip on the end looks correct though. To bad it is out of stock. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/heater-amp-ac/heater-cables/e0tz-18552-a-air-control-cable Also, if you pull that cable out, i bet a bicycle shop can make one real easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 Also, if you pull that cable out, i bet a bicycle shop can make one real easy. Thanks for the lawnmower/bicycle shop ideas. I think I'll give those a try before buying a whole new cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 Thanks for the lawnmower/bicycle shop ideas. I think I'll give those a try before buying a whole new cable. I finally located my rear differential tag today under 40 years of grease and oil. I had to scrub on it for a bit to make it legible but I think this is what it says. 4.10. E0TA. ARA 603947-4. L. S Sorry my phone keeps adding periods where I don't want them. The only one in the above is between the 4 and the 1. Can anyone interpret this tag for me? Some of it I think is pretty straight forward but some of it I have no idea what it means. Here is the original if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 I finally located my rear differential tag today under 40 years of grease and oil. I had to scrub on it for a bit to make it legible but I think this is what it says. 4.10. E0TA. ARA 603947-4. L. S Sorry my phone keeps adding periods where I don't want them. The only one in the above is between the 4 and the 1. Can anyone interpret this tag for me? Some of it I think is pretty straight forward but some of it I have no idea what it means. Here is the original if it helps. It is a 4.10:1 limited slip axle EOTA ARA are the prefix and suffix completing the Ford engineering number. 603947-4 is the bill of materials, aka BOM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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