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1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project


Atlas75

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Will the rear brakes in these trucks self adjust when applying the brakes in reverse?

They are supposed to, but don't always. One of our members, Welderscott, brought his '78 over yesterday and we checked the rear brakes - way out of adjustment in spite of him having backed up a lot. So I wouldn't rely on that feature to work.

Instead, I jack the wheel up and adjust until I can turn the wheel any more by hand. Then hit the backing plate a few times with a mallet and make sure I still can't turn it. And then I back off 9 or 10 clicks and call it good.

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They are supposed to, but don't always. One of our members, Welderscott, brought his '78 over yesterday and we checked the rear brakes - way out of adjustment in spite of him having backed up a lot. So I wouldn't rely on that feature to work.

Instead, I jack the wheel up and adjust until I can turn the wheel any more by hand. Then hit the backing plate a few times with a mallet and make sure I still can't turn it. And then I back off 9 or 10 clicks and call it good.

Thanks Gary! That's how I adjusted them initially. I was curious about the self adjustment because I read somewhere that they would self adjust with the emergency brake but it didn't mention adjusting in reverse. It didn't say they wouldn't adjust in reverse so.... :nabble_anim_confused:

Anyways...I bled the brakes this evening and both rear brakes work! The pedal is better, not great, but better. I think I'll bleed them once or twice more and see what that does.

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Thanks Gary! That's how I adjusted them initially. I was curious about the self adjustment because I read somewhere that they would self adjust with the emergency brake but it didn't mention adjusting in reverse. It didn't say they wouldn't adjust in reverse so.... :nabble_anim_confused:

Anyways...I bled the brakes this evening and both rear brakes work! The pedal is better, not great, but better. I think I'll bleed them once or twice more and see what that does.

I am noticing that this truck is hard to start. I have to pump the gas pedal probably 30 times to get it to fire. Once it starts it does ok. I think the idle could come up a little bit when cold but it will stay running.

What should I be looking at? Could it be weak fuel pump? Bad gas (I have no idea how old the gas is)? Carb adjustment (I know very little about carbs)? Or ?

TIA

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I am noticing that this truck is hard to start. I have to pump the gas pedal probably 30 times to get it to fire. Once it starts it does ok. I think the idle could come up a little bit when cold but it will stay running.

What should I be looking at? Could it be weak fuel pump? Bad gas (I have no idea how old the gas is)? Carb adjustment (I know very little about carbs)? Or ?

TIA

I'm going to guess that the choke isn't operating properly. Go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/CARBURETORS, CHOKES, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150 for a discussion about them. Go to the External Systems tab. And then the Instructions tab for adjusting the choke.

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I'm going to guess that the choke isn't operating properly. Go to Documentation/Fuel Systems/CARBURETORS, CHOKES, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150 for a discussion about them. Go to the External Systems tab. And then the Instructions tab for adjusting the choke.

I snapped a couple photos this morning of the carb. The first photo is resting state. Meaning, the only think I did was remove the air cleaner. The second photo is after one press of the accelerator. It looks like the flap closed all the way.

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20210821_095227.jpg.aae2a74b7d18d9f706b62ec1a90788e2.jpg

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I snapped a couple photos this morning of the carb. The first photo is resting state. Meaning, the only think I did was remove the air cleaner. The second photo is after one press of the accelerator. It looks like the flap closed all the way.

Carl, looking at the first photo your plate should be vertical when warm.

The choke should close all the way when cold, and you open the throttle to release the linkage.

Then when the engine starts, the throttle should crack open like the first photo.

As the choke spring warms up, the choke plate should continue to open.

To vertical when the engine is finally up to temperature.

 

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I snapped a couple photos this morning of the carb. The first photo is resting state. Meaning, the only think I did was remove the air cleaner. The second photo is after one press of the accelerator. It looks like the flap closed all the way.

Yes, the choke is closed about right in the 2nd pic. However, the vacuum pulloff, circled in yellow, will open the choke farther as soon as the engine starts, and I'm betting it'll open it too much and the engine will stall.

In addition, the choke isn't nearly fully open in the first pic. But, that may be due to bi-metallic spring trying to close it since the engine is cold and the fast idle linkage not allowing it. So you should take a pic of the choke with the engine fully warmed up.

2150_Vacuum_Pulloff.jpg.110f188355c2b42a1731e1f3fe520802.jpg

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Carl, looking at the first photo your plate should be vertical when warm.

The choke should close all the way when cold, and you open the throttle to release the linkage.

Then when the engine starts, the throttle should crack open like the first photo.

As the choke spring warms up, the choke plate should continue to open.

To vertical when the engine is finally up to temperature.

Oops, was busy posting and missed your, Jim.

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