ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Well a new problem to tackle. Found a puddle of oil by the driver side rear tire, after I parked it and can see that the rear outer seal is leaking . I think this came about because I changed out the diff oil recently and with fresh clean oil, easier to leak ... ok, what should I know about replacing it? I'm going to do the bearings and do both sides. This is a 10.25" Ford Limited Slip. You absolutely need to go with the updated Scotseal. (Type... whatever brand) These glue to the axle housing and turn within themselves. This was an issue with 10.25's There is a TSB. If i had the cover off I would consider putting a drain bung in the bottom, to make service easier, but you don't need to pull the cover to replace the seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 You absolutely need to go with the updated Scotseal. (Type... whatever brand) These glue to the axle housing and turn within themselves. This was an issue with 10.25's There is a TSB. If i had the cover off I would consider putting a drain bung in the bottom, to make service easier, but you don't need to pull the cover to replace the seals. We don't have the instructions from the factory shop manual on the site for the 10.25" axle. I'll see if I can get that done today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 We don't have the instructions from the factory shop manual on the site for the 10.25" axle. I'll see if I can get that done today. Is the TSB available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Is the TSB available? Jim - I'm glad you asked the question. Not because I have that TSB as I don't know if I do and don't know how to find the # of it? Maybe you do? The reason I'm glad is that I was ready to say "Done! We have the FSM section on the 10.25" Sterling." But when You asked I looked at the TSB list I have and found one on the Sterling. It isn't the one you are talking about, but it starts out "A new 10.25" Ford axle will replace the HD Dana rear axles as a 1985 running change. The semi float axle service procedure is included in the Light Truck Shop Manual — Section 15-09, the full float information is contained in the TSB." So I added the TSB. Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then tabs Rear Axles & Differentials, then Sterling 10.25". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Jim - I'm glad you asked the question. Not because I have that TSB as I don't know if I do and don't know how to find the # of it? Maybe you do? The reason I'm glad is that I was ready to say "Done! We have the FSM section on the 10.25" Sterling." But when You asked I looked at the TSB list I have and found one on the Sterling. It isn't the one you are talking about, but it starts out "A new 10.25" Ford axle will replace the HD Dana rear axles as a 1985 running change. The semi float axle service procedure is included in the Light Truck Shop Manual — Section 15-09, the full float information is contained in the TSB." So I added the TSB. Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then tabs Rear Axles & Differentials, then Sterling 10.25". Gary, the one I'm talking about is 94-19-24 There is something about a custom narrower bearing and a slinger that fits behind, but I haven't seen a need to go down that road. The revised seal alone works for me. On the 10.25, there is another TSB 91-6-7 About bearing preload. Which basically says torque to 55-65 ftlb while turning the wheel. Then back off 5 clicks for new bearings or 8 clicks for used bearings (where you are just replacing the seal) I know the seal is SKF 34384 or National 370047A HTH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Gary, the one I'm talking about is 94-19-24 There is something about a custom narrower bearing and a slinger that fits behind, but I haven't seen a need to go down that road. The revised seal alone works for me. On the 10.25, there is another TSB 91-6-7 About bearing preload. Which basically says torque to 55-65 ftlb while turning the wheel. Then back off 5 clicks for new bearings or 8 clicks for used bearings (where you are just replacing the seal) I know the seal is SKF 34384 or National 370047A HTH! That helped a lot, Jim. I have those TSBs and put them on tabs next to the FSM sections. See what you think now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 That helped a lot, Jim. I have those TSBs and put them on tabs next to the FSM sections. See what you think now. 'Driveline' is a clickable link, and as soon as I mouse over it it disappears. Though I can instantaneously see the axles and differentials tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 'Driveline' is a clickable link, and as soon as I mouse over it it disappears. Though I can instantaneously see the axles and differentials tab. Try it now, but refresh first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Try it now, but refresh first. It's working now for me. Thank you Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Well a new problem to tackle. Found a puddle of oil by the driver side rear tire, after I parked it and can see that the rear outer seal is leaking . I think this came about because I changed out the diff oil recently and with fresh clean oil, easier to leak ... ok, what should I know about replacing it? I'm going to do the bearings and do both sides. This is a 10.25" Ford Limited Slip. Also note that you should check that the vent hose connected to the brake hose splitter block must be clear. Otherwise heat from operation will cause enough pressure to drive gear lube past the seals. (and brake shoes for these things aren't cheap ) So I'm going to suggest you pull it off the hollow bolt that holds the splitter to the axle and blow air through it. The upper end should be clipped to the top frame flange, out of the way of road debris and possible flooding (unless you're fording a deep stream) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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