Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Gary, can you advise as to where that relay is located in my wiring? I see it in the schematic but would like to take a physical look at it. Can you direct me to the page that shows where these things are located? I think it would help me immensely to know this. Also, and perhaps a bit off topic, but isn't there concerns regarding that blower motor and the need for a relay to it? Kinda like our headlights. Seems Scott brought that up and I've read about it here somewhere? If I wanted to go the route we discussed directly above regarding my Alt mod, would that be off a different circuit. Thoughts on wiring in a relay to that blower motor after the Alt mod route I'm looking at or is that even an issue with my 86? Unfortunately I don't remember where the choke relay is, and its position doesn't show that I can find. Maybe someone else can help us out? On the blower, let me make that a separate post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Unfortunately I don't remember where the choke relay is, and its position doesn't show that I can find. Maybe someone else can help us out? On the blower, let me make that a separate post... Yeah, hopefully someone can tell me. I want to confirm the existence of the relay and know where it is. I know the drawing says it is present, but I want to see it. I nearly burned up a vehicle years back by "assuming" something electrical and I will not repeat that experience again. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Unfortunately I don't remember where the choke relay is, and its position doesn't show that I can find. Maybe someone else can help us out? On the blower, let me make that a separate post... Ok, as shown below the blower is fed power from the function selector switch and then is grounded via the blower switch. So to do it the best way you need two relays - one triggered by the function selector switch and feeding power to the blower, and another that grounds the motor in Hi. Why just Hi? Because it would take two more relays to provide the grounds in M1 and M2, and there's no need for a relay in Lo. And since you aren't really worried too much about M1 nor M2 as their current isn't nearly that of Hi, just put a relay in for the ground in Hi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Ok, as shown below the blower is fed power from the function selector switch and then is grounded via the blower switch. So to do it the best way you need two relays - one triggered by the function selector switch and feeding power to the blower, and another that grounds the motor in Hi. Why just Hi? Because it would take two more relays to provide the grounds in M1 and M2, and there's no need for a relay in Lo. And since you aren't really worried too much about M1 nor M2 as their current isn't nearly that of Hi, just put a relay in for the ground in Hi. Also the Blower Relay and the alternator changes are separate circuits/harnesses so you don't have to necessarily make plans for the Blower Relay at the same time. It has the benefit of being in a great location for a relay to be added. On the choke relay, they really do make that tough to find from the evtm. At least we know it's between the Fender Mounted Relay (Fuse Link AX) and the choke Speaking of relays, I agree with Gary and Jim's recommendation to use a relay with the voltmeter despite me not doing so. When time and weather permits I am going to run a test comparing both positions. The problem is that this is highly dependent upon the tester's truck. In my case I have the blower relay, headlight relay, power window relay, leds, etc so the results of my test won't be at all representative of a stock truck. The voltmeter relay on the other hand would be consistent across the board for users. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Also the Blower Relay and the alternator changes are separate circuits/harnesses so you don't have to necessarily make plans for the Blower Relay at the same time. It has the benefit of being in a great location for a relay to be added. On the choke relay, they really do make that tough to find from the evtm. At least we know it's between the Fender Mounted Relay (Fuse Link AX) and the choke Speaking of relays, I agree with Gary and Jim's recommendation to use a relay with the voltmeter despite me not doing so. When time and weather permits I am going to run a test comparing both positions. The problem is that this is highly dependent upon the tester's truck. In my case I have the blower relay, headlight relay, power window relay, leds, etc so the results of my test won't be at all representative of a stock truck. The voltmeter relay on the other hand would be consistent across the board for users. Tangent but since we are talking about wiring - I tore my dash harness down into each circuit and measured the wires to the nearest inch rounding up. May not have much use to it but interesting info to have. I wasn't able to get all circuits due to cutting pieces out for others or myself but quite a few were unmolested. I penciled them all in my evtm so at some point will find a way to get them to Gary. Mildly interesting: found an unlisted T/O connector and the Exterior Lamp circuit is drawn incorrectly in the EVTM (86). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Tangent but since we are talking about wiring - I tore my dash harness down into each circuit and measured the wires to the nearest inch rounding up. May not have much use to it but interesting info to have. I wasn't able to get all circuits due to cutting pieces out for others or myself but quite a few were unmolested. I penciled them all in my evtm so at some point will find a way to get them to Gary. Mildly interesting: found an unlisted T/O connector and the Exterior Lamp circuit is drawn incorrectly in the EVTM (86). LOL! I have a similar view, albeit on the floor of the attic and still quasi attached to a dash. Just found and cut out the Bk/Wh windshield washer wire from the windshield wiper switch to the connector, which actually takes you all the way to the driver's side headlight as that's where the washer ground is. And since I wanted a solder & play connection I needed all the wire I could have. Anyway, I'm curious about what you found. Maybe put that in another thread to make the title somewhat relevant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 LOL! I have a similar view, albeit on the floor of the attic and still quasi attached to a dash. Just found and cut out the Bk/Wh windshield washer wire from the windshield wiper switch to the connector, which actually takes you all the way to the driver's side headlight as that's where the washer ground is. And since I wanted a solder & play connection I needed all the wire I could have. Anyway, I'm curious about what you found. Maybe put that in another thread to make the title somewhat relevant? Ok, here's a stab at a 2G to 3G conversion with no shunt and using the choke relay for the voltmeter. My concern is that it might be easy to miss the wires I've added in the Done pic. Do they need to be in red? Or should I put red arrows showing the junctions? Other comments? Here's what you have when you start: Here's where to cut: And here's what it should look like when done: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Ok, here's a stab at a 2G to 3G conversion with no shunt and using the choke relay for the voltmeter. My concern is that it might be easy to miss the wires I've added in the Done pic. Do they need to be in red? Or should I put red arrows showing the junctions? Other comments? Here's what you have when you start: Here's where to cut: And here's what it should look like when done: I'd highlight the added wires. Also, if you have a picture of the harness, show the splices in the harness. Ultimately, when the schematic is done display both the before and after schematic along with the harness on our 3G upgrade page. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 I'd highlight the added wires. Also, if you have a picture of the harness, show the splices in the harness. Ultimately, when the schematic is done display both the before and after schematic along with the harness on our 3G upgrade page. Thanks! Good idea to highlight the added wires. Just like I did on the 1G wiring. And, you know I have a pic of the 2G wiring. How's this look? And, does the fact that the red "cut" line crossed the LG/R wire and the R/O wire on the left confuse? You are only supposed to cut the R/O wire, as said. And, when you get it together I'll certainly want a pic of the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Good idea to highlight the added wires. Just like I did on the 1G wiring. And, you know I have a pic of the 2G wiring. How's this look? And, does the fact that the red "cut" line crossed the LG/R wire and the R/O wire on the left confuse? You are only supposed to cut the R/O wire, as said. And, when you get it together I'll certainly want a pic of the harness. But isnt the hot wire from the choke relay a reduced voltage or did Ford change that when they went to the relay setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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