ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 My dash takes a hit from every cab load, lights, blower, etc.. If I had power windows or something else, even more. I don't even want to know about the cab, I want to know about the charge state of my battery. If you look at the HO diagrams you'll see the stator triggers a relay that gets its power directly from the battery+ stud of the fender relay. (And with that, I've had enough of my crappy device putting words in my mouth and "the Nabble Server is Overcapacity, try again later") If I'm gone for a month or two don't bother with a search party, okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 You're cutting the ammeter on the far side of the plug and the stator & shunt on the near side of the plug. Just unplug the plug. Done! I think it must be time for me to go to bed as I'm dense. I'm not getting it. And I'm not trying to be difficult, although I probably am being difficult. We have two halves of a plug and w/o both halves there's nothing to connect to. And I don't understand "far side" vs "near side". (Actually I did get Far Side most often, but not tonight. ) So, is this right? Both sides of C610 are still there and we have leads coming out to connect to. Gary, look at where the red lines are in relation to the ammeter... Don't cut anything... just unplug 610 and be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 My dash takes a hit from every cab load, lights, blower, etc.. If I had power windows or something else, even more. I don't even want to know about the cab, I want to know about the charge state of my battery. If you look at the HO diagrams you'll see the stator triggers a relay that gets its power directly from the battery+ stud of the fender relay. Ok, I see and that was actually how I had it originally laid out back before the rebuild started: Since the two wires are going to an isolated fuse in my ssVEC it would be easy to plug them into relay terminals instead. So far my voltmeter has stayed pretty constant but I'll see about adding all the load I can and testing the difference. My suggestion in the official doc would be recommending the relay. While all the add-on voltmeters I've used (cheap) just hook into a key-on circuit we might as well go with the unquestionably accurate approach. I didn't realize the HO had it this way. Don't think I've ever looked at those diagrams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Gary, look at where the red lines are in relation to the ammeter... Don't cut anything... just unplug 610 and be done. Jim - I am not following either. If you unplug C610 but don't cut anything (cab side?) then you've just got an unhooked connector and no cab power, etc. The diagram you have Gary with the red lines gets my vote for reasons I mentioned earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 Gary, look at where the red lines are in relation to the ammeter... Don't cut anything... just unplug 610 and be done. Jim - I'm sorry for the server response. As you know, I have a sys admin supposedly working on our new home. Please don't go away. As for the red lines, I think I see what you are saying on their placement with respect to the ammeter. They were on the wrong side of C610. They all have to be on the same side of the connector, meaning either the "cab side" or the "alternator side". And I had them mixed, but have changed that in the schematic below. However, I'm not sure I understand "Don't cut anything... just unplug 610 and be done." Does that mean tap into the circuits ahead of C610, but leave the cab half of C610 for future use? Also like shown below? Scott - I've seen my cab voltage change significantly with load, which is why I wanted my voltmeter to read battery voltage, and even then I can see the effect of large load changes. But I can also see that many people might want to do it your way since it is so much easier, so have no problem presenting both approaches and explaining the differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 As for the red lines, I think I see what you are saying on their placement with respect to the ammeter. They were on the wrong side of C610. They all have to be on the same side of the connector, meaning either the "cab side" or the "alternator side". And I had them mixed, but have changed that in the schematic below. Missed that as well. Jim has a good eye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 As for the red lines, I think I see what you are saying on their placement with respect to the ammeter. They were on the wrong side of C610. They all have to be on the same side of the connector, meaning either the "cab side" or the "alternator side". And I had them mixed, but have changed that in the schematic below. Missed that as well. Jim has a good eye! Was curious so did some measurements of the yellow wire on my spare harness at lunch. Not sure anything will help in this thread but if there is something I can provide from this as it is all un-taped and easily accessible, let me know. Very rough/ballpark measurements: From C610 to the passenger side firewall grommet = 3' Grommet to splice S208 = 6' S208 to ign switch = 2' 4" Splice to fuse box = 1' 8" Splice to Aux Battery C232 - 2' 6"Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 Was curious so did some measurements of the yellow wire on my spare harness at lunch. Not sure anything will help in this thread but if there is something I can provide from this as it is all un-taped and easily accessible, let me know. Very rough/ballpark measurements: From C610 to the passenger side firewall grommet = 3' Grommet to splice S208 = 6' S208 to ign switch = 2' 4" Splice to fuse box = 1' 8" Splice to Aux Battery C232 - 2' 6" Interesting, Scott. Would it be helpful to put those on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 Interesting, Scott. Would it be helpful to put those on here? I think having the lengths in the evtm would be great! I've started writing gauges down in mine as well. I am about to the point where I can get rid of this harness anyways so what I'll do is start pulling it apart and getting accurate measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 I think having the lengths in the evtm would be great! I've started writing gauges down in mine as well. I am about to the point where I can get rid of this harness anyways so what I'll do is start pulling it apart and getting accurate measurements. I misunderstood. You said: From C610 to the passenger side firewall grommet = 3' Grommet to splice S208 = 6' S208 to ign switch = 2' 4" Splice to fuse box = 1' 8" Splice to Aux Battery C232 - 2' 6" Somehow I was thinking that we needed both pages in one view, but if we can assume that the firewall grommet is the break between pages 17 and 18 of the 1985 EVTM then we'd have something we could put on each page. Is that a reasonable assumption? Is there any way you can confirm that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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