ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 I would also keep C610 and modify the alt side of it, leaving the cab side alone. This is user preference but would allow changing easily changing back. That may be planning for something that will never happen but one never knows. I picked up another C610 alt side and put my original one in a box. I don't want to distract since mine is a 1-wire vs a 3G but on my modified C610 alt side it is: Yellow -> 60A fuse -> battery LG/R -> 1A fuse -> Red/Orange(so a loop) Yellow/Light Green -> Ground *I have a converted voltmeter* Scott, what are you using to turn your voltmeter on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Scott, what are you using to turn your voltmeter on? LG/R (part of the fused loop) is Hot In Run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 I would also keep C610 and modify the alt side of it, leaving the cab side alone. This is user preference but would allow changing easily changing back. That may be planning for something that will never happen but one never knows. I picked up another C610 alt side and put my original one in a box. I don't want to distract since mine is a 1-wire vs a 3G but on my modified C610 alt side it is: Yellow -> 60A fuse -> battery LG/R -> 1A fuse -> Red/Orange(so a loop) Yellow/Light Green -> Ground *I have a converted voltmeter* Yes, keeping C610 makes it far easier to go back. But why the 60 amp fuse? The yellow wire goes to fuse links L & M? Just extra protection? I see what you are doing on the voltmeter. But your order of explaining it threw me. I think of LG/R being the source, through a 1A fuse to R/O going to the voltmeter, and then Y/LG from the voltmeter to ground. (Originally I thought you were using the R/O and Y/LG from the ends of the shunt, but then realized what you were doing.) My only problem with that is that your voltmeter is reading the voltage at the ignition switch rather than the battery. But, it is a cleaner way to do it and doesn't require the relay, and the voltages should differ very much. So, maybe we should adopt that approach in the scenario where we have a voltmeter? LG/R can go to both the 3G awa the voltmeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 I'm seeing a bit of wire before 233, and when I was looking at the 351HO diagram with John, it seemed like the spot had plenty of wire so it could connect the choke and his voltmeter, because of the stator triggered relay in the 351 HO. But neither he or I are coming from a 1G, so it's hard to say? I think the alternator side of C610 is pretty useless with a 3G, but the fact that most people can unplug it and say "ok, I'm done with everything here" is a big point. It simplifies the process for the insecure, and offers another disconnect for 'key on power' if we can find a pin that fits the cab side of 610. Guys, I'm having a mental breakdown. I'm missing something that should be intuitively obvious to the casual observer. When we say we are keeping C610 but then say "the alternator side of C610 is pretty useless with a 3G" I get lost. I was assuming we are keeping both sides of C610, but are cutting the wires as shown below. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Yes, keeping C610 makes it far easier to go back. But why the 60 amp fuse? The yellow wire goes to fuse links L & M? Just extra protection? I see what you are doing on the voltmeter. But your order of explaining it threw me. I think of LG/R being the source, through a 1A fuse to R/O going to the voltmeter, and then Y/LG from the voltmeter to ground. (Originally I thought you were using the R/O and Y/LG from the ends of the shunt, but then realized what you were doing.) My only problem with that is that your voltmeter is reading the voltage at the ignition switch rather than the battery. But, it is a cleaner way to do it and doesn't require the relay, and the voltages should differ very much. So, maybe we should adopt that approach in the scenario where we have a voltmeter? LG/R can go to both the 3G awa the voltmeter. You're right, even though I put arrows I wasn't thinking directional from positive. I've updated the post although the Yellow/Battery is still backwards The original reason for the 60A was just a matter of replacing one form of protection with another and not removing any protection. The quick to follow second reason is that it is nice to leave everything hooked up but just remove the fuse to interrupt power to the cab when doing electrical work. I prefer it to having a loose ring terminal. At this stage in the rebuild, disconnecting the fuses happens fairly often. It would be interesting to do a voltage comparison. Honestly I don't recall what rocketman set my voltmeter values to so I wouldn't know if it was off  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 LG/R (part of the fused loop) is Hot In Run. So you're using the exciter wire itself for the voltmeter? You're not monitoring battery power? (or close to it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Guys, I'm having a mental breakdown. I'm missing something that should be intuitively obvious to the casual observer. When we say we are keeping C610 but then say "the alternator side of C610 is pretty useless with a 3G" I get lost. I was assuming we are keeping both sides of C610, but are cutting the wires as shown below. Right? You're cutting the ammeter on the far side of the plug and the stator & shunt on the near side of the plug. Just unplug the plug. Done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 So you're using the exciter wire itself for the voltmeter? You're not monitoring battery power? (or close to it) Yes to the first but how so to the second? In Start it goes through a resistance wire but in run it's full 12v. Granted, as Gary said, it take a circuitous route through the ignition switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Yes to the first but how so to the second? In Start it goes through a resistance wire but in run it's full 12v. Granted, as Gary said, it take a circuitous route through the ignition switch. My dash takes a hit from every cab load, lights, blower, etc.. If I had power windows or something else, even more. I don't even want to know about the cab, I want to know about the charge state of my battery. If you look at the HO diagrams you'll see the stator triggers a relay that gets its power directly from the battery+ stud of the fender relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 You're cutting the ammeter on the far side of the plug and the stator & shunt on the near side of the plug. Just unplug the plug. Done! I think it must be time for me to go to bed as I'm dense. I'm not getting it. And I'm not trying to be difficult, although I probably am being difficult. We have two halves of a plug and w/o both halves there's nothing to connect to. And I don't understand "far side" vs "near side". (Actually I did get Far Side most often, but not tonight. ) So, is this right? Both sides of C610 are still there and we have leads coming out to connect to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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