Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 Whew! My only recommendation is that you put the 12v continuous on yellow/white trace on the alternator side of the megafuse. That way if the fuse should blow the regulator will still see the output of the alternator and not go bananas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 My only recommendation is that you put the 12v continuous on yellow/white trace on the alternator side of the megafuse. That way if the fuse should blow the regulator will still see the output of the alternator and not go bananas. Understand all. Thanks for everything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 I found the harness shown below and added some labels to the pic, so maybe we can use it in the write up. And I measured the wires, as best I could, and referred to this table to come up with the wire sizes: Big yellow wire going to the right from S202 is .115" in diameter, so should be a 10 gauge wire Orange/black wire coming from the alternator to S202 is .115" so should be a 10 gauge Shunt is .085", and while I can't find a good match in the chart, it appears to be smaller than 12 gauge but not as small as 14. Given that, I'm going to suggest that we recommend that the shunt be replaced with a #10 wire. Thoughts? I agree with using #10awg to replace the shunt. Should be plenty given how sketchy the rest of the cab wiring is But I would suggest taking the entire harness shown and tossing it. The alternator side of C610 can be useful if you're having your ammeter converted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 I agree with using #10awg to replace the shunt. Should be plenty given how sketchy the rest of the cab wiring is But I would suggest taking the entire harness shown and tossing it. The alternator side of C610 can be useful if you're having your ammeter converted. Agreed. The "w/o shunt & w/o ammeter or voltmeter" version won't have C610. The "w/o shunt but with voltmeter" will have C610, as will the "with shunt & voltmeter" version. I'll see what I can do a bit later today to get a potentially final version of the "w/o shunt & w/o ammeter or voltmeter" version to get that nailed down. If we can all agree on that then moving on to the other versions will be easier. Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to use the schematics we have to tell the story, but just couldn't get there. Finally the three-step approach seemed to work: Here's what you have Here's what you are removing Here's what it will be like when you are done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to use the schematics we have to tell the story, but just couldn't get there. Finally the three-step approach seemed to work: Here's what you have Here's what you are removing Here's what it will be like when you are done I like that, Gary! I'll get you a good picture of my wiring harness this evening sometime. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 Yesterday I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to use the schematics we have to tell the story, but just couldn't get there. Finally the three-step approach seemed to work: Here's what you have Here's what you are removing Here's what it will be like when you are done I like that, Gary! I'll get you a good picture of my wiring harness this evening sometime. Thank you John - There's no hurry. Take the pic at your leisure as I have a lot of work to do before I need it. Ok, here's the new "Here's what you are removing" page. Effectively it is the harness I showed earlier plus the other half of connector C610, and we will include that picture as well. Please let me know if y'all agree. And here's the new "Here's what it will be like when you are done" page. Note that I've added the choke heater and the wiring to the EEC for the 4.9L. And the writeup will say that the things highlighted in yellow are what they are adding. Plus, we'll also need to suggest wire sizing for the run from the megafuse to the starter relay in the writeup. And, a megafuse size. But not in the schematic. Thoughts? Upgrades? Concerns? Suggestions? I want to get this version "right" and use it as a template for the next versions, so now is the time for comments. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 John - There's no hurry. Take the pic at your leisure as I have a lot of work to do before I need it. Ok, here's the new "Here's what you are removing" page. Effectively it is the harness I showed earlier plus the other half of connector C610, and we will include that picture as well. Please let me know if y'all agree. And here's the new "Here's what it will be like when you are done" page. Note that I've added the choke heater and the wiring to the EEC for the 4.9L. And the writeup will say that the things highlighted in yellow are what they are adding. Plus, we'll also need to suggest wire sizing for the run from the megafuse to the starter relay in the writeup. And, a megafuse size. But not in the schematic. Thoughts? Upgrades? Concerns? Suggestions? I want to get this version "right" and use it as a template for the next versions, so now is the time for comments. I think the stator wire will disconnect at C233 instead of C231. And I think I would want to see C610 remain (on the cab side) Beyond that, it seems a LOT easier to take the Y/w of the regulator pigtail to the output lug (because it reaches) than wherever the opposite end of the output cable hits the Megafuse. The likelihood of voltage drop or something else effecting the reading of the sense wire between these two points is incredibly tiny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 I think the stator wire will disconnect at C233 instead of C231. And I think I would want to see C610 remain (on the cab side) Beyond that, it seems a LOT easier to take the Y/w of the regulator pigtail to the output lug (because it reaches) than wherever the opposite end of the output cable hits the Megafuse. The likelihood of voltage drop or something else effecting the reading of the sense wire between these two points is incredibly tiny. I have no problem taking the Y/W wire back to the output lug. I'm just using the schematic from the '96 EVTM, and it shows it going to a fusible link, which I turned into a megafuse. And, as I think about it, if people use a pigtail from the salvage it might be wired that way. Either way works. We could discuss that in the verbiage. As for the stator connectors, I can make that change as well. The EVTM says C233 is at the alternator and C231 is at the right front of the engine, so going with C233 gives longer wiring to reach the 3G. But I'm confused on C610. I thought you said to remove it yesterday. I'm not bothered either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 I think the stator wire will disconnect at C233 instead of C231. And I think I would want to see C610 remain (on the cab side) Beyond that, it seems a LOT easier to take the Y/w of the regulator pigtail to the output lug (because it reaches) than wherever the opposite end of the output cable hits the Megafuse. The likelihood of voltage drop or something else effecting the reading of the sense wire between these two points is incredibly tiny. I would also keep C610 and modify the alt side of it, leaving the cab side alone. This is user preference but would allow changing easily changing back. That may be planning for something that will never happen but one never knows. I picked up another C610 alt side and put my original one in a box. I don't want to distract since mine is a 1-wire vs a 3G but on my modified C610 alt side it is: Yellow -> 60A fuse -> battery LG/R -> 1A fuse -> Red/Orange(so a loop) Yellow/Light Green -> Ground *I have a converted voltmeter* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 I have no problem taking the Y/W wire back to the output lug. I'm just using the schematic from the '96 EVTM, and it shows it going to a fusible link, which I turned into a megafuse. And, as I think about it, if people use a pigtail from the salvage it might be wired that way. Either way works. We could discuss that in the verbiage. As for the stator connectors, I can make that change as well. The EVTM says C233 is at the alternator and C231 is at the right front of the engine, so going with C233 gives longer wiring to reach the 3G. But I'm confused on C610. I thought you said to remove it yesterday. I'm not bothered either way. I'm seeing a bit of wire before 233, and when I was looking at the 351HO diagram with John, it seemed like the spot had plenty of wire so it could connect the choke and his voltmeter, because of the stator triggered relay in the 351 HO. But neither he or I are coming from a 1G, so it's hard to say? I think the alternator side of C610 is pretty useless with a 3G, but the fact that most people can unplug it and say "ok, I'm done with everything here" is a big point. It simplifies the process for the insecure, and offers another disconnect for 'key on power' if we can find a pin that fits the cab side of 610. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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