Help On 3G Page

[85lebaront2]

My regulator pigtail has little raised LSA molded on it.

But I don't know where Painless might source their parts, so have a look when you can?

Jim, you asked me if the pigtail had LSA molded on it. All I see is ASI. I did not pull it to check the other side though. According to Painless, this is what I need for a 3G conversion. Again, it is very high quality as compared to the other pigtail I have.

Regarding the secondary color markings on some of the wires on my alternator harness, there are none on the three yellow wires, nor is there another marking on the red wire. I've been up every inch of the wires. See photo

That Alternator, with the right angle stud adapter looks exactly like the one on my Taurus did.

[Machspeed]

That Alternator, with the right angle stud adapter looks exactly like the one on my Taurus did.

Bill, that alternator is for a 93 Ford Taurus....LOL!

[ArdWrknTrk]

That Alternator, with the right angle stud adapter looks exactly like the one on my Taurus did.

Bill, that alternator is for a 93 Ford Taurus....LOL!

And, in a Taurus you'll see why the adapter is better than a right angle lug on the charge cable.

[85lebaront2]

And, in a Taurus you'll see why the adapter is better than a right angle lug on the charge cable.

Just because on the 3.8L it sits almost against the upper plenum shouldn't be a problem, GM would put it on straight as long as there were a few thousandths of space.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Just because on the 3.8L it sits almost against the upper plenum shouldn't be a problem, GM would put it on straight as long as there were a few thousandths of space.

Ok folks, I need you to review something for me. PLEASE!

But, before I 'splain what it is let me 'splain my cunning plan. I'm going to present these ways to do it: with a warning light or with a voltmeter monitoring either battery voltage or ignition switch voltage. That is because there seems to be enough interest in using the LG/R wire from the ignition switch rather than installing a relay.

And speaking of the LG/R wire, the relay will be pulled in by it rather than stator voltage. That's because it seems easier to wire it up that way since you can use the LG/R wire both to pull the relay in as well as to provide power to the voltmeter. (Besides, it was easy to draw it that way, as you'll see. )

So, what I need you to do is to go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. Then drill down on the Wiring It tab, then the Ammeter Tab, then the 2G tab. There you'll find these two tabs:

• Monitoring At The Ignition Switch: This one isn't done as it doesn't have the "here's what your wiring looks like & where you should cut" schematic nor the "here's your harness and where you should cut" picture. But it has the final wiring schematic. And if you agree with the next tab I can finish this tab.

• Monitoring At The Battery: I believe this tab is done. And, I think it is what John/Machspeed is looking for. But, I need feedback from y'all.

And, disregard the tab that says Disregard This Tab. I need to delete it but that isn't the easiest thing to do so will wait to see that you agree with the approach of moving the stuff about the voltmeter into the Wiring It tab.

[Machspeed]

Ok folks, I need you to review something for me. PLEASE!

But, before I 'splain what it is let me 'splain my cunning plan. I'm going to present these ways to do it: with a warning light or with a voltmeter monitoring either battery voltage or ignition switch voltage. That is because there seems to be enough interest in using the LG/R wire from the ignition switch rather than installing a relay.

And speaking of the LG/R wire, the relay will be pulled in by it rather than stator voltage. That's because it seems easier to wire it up that way since you can use the LG/R wire both to pull the relay in as well as to provide power to the voltmeter. (Besides, it was easy to draw it that way, as you'll see. )

So, what I need you to do is to go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. Then drill down on the Wiring It tab, then the Ammeter Tab, then the 2G tab. There you'll find these two tabs:

• Monitoring At The Ignition Switch: This one isn't done as it doesn't have the "here's what your wiring looks like & where you should cut" schematic nor the "here's your harness and where you should cut" picture. But it has the final wiring schematic. And if you agree with the next tab I can finish this tab.

• Monitoring At The Battery: I believe this tab is done. And, I think it is what John/Machspeed is looking for. But, I need feedback from y'all.

And, disregard the tab that says Disregard This Tab. I need to delete it but that isn't the easiest thing to do so will wait to see that you agree with the approach of moving the stuff about the voltmeter into the Wiring It tab.

Morning Gary! So where is the 4 gauge wire that comes off the alternator and goes to the other side of the mega fuse in your drawing? I see that wire in red on the battery side of the mega fuse, but not on the alternator side. I think I brought this up once before.

[Gary Lewis]

Morning Gary! So where is the 4 gauge wire that comes off the alternator and goes to the other side of the mega fuse in your drawing? I see that wire in red on the battery side of the mega fuse, but not on the alternator side. I think I brought this up once before.

Morning, John. And a COLD morning 'tis. Showing -3F here and still snowing. Have maybe 4", although that is very hard to tell with the blowing, and supposed to get another 2 - 4" before it quits today. And then we are to get another 4 - 8" tomorrow night!

Anyway, good catch on the wire from the alternator to the megafuse. And, I was planning on wrapping the Y/W wire back to the alternator's output. Plus take the color off the alternator's output wire as not everyone will have a BK/O wire.

Thanks, I'll work on those things in a bit. Anything else?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok folks, I need you to review something for me. PLEASE!

But, before I 'splain what it is let me 'splain my cunning plan. I'm going to present these ways to do it: with a warning light or with a voltmeter monitoring either battery voltage or ignition switch voltage. That is because there seems to be enough interest in using the LG/R wire from the ignition switch rather than installing a relay.

And speaking of the LG/R wire, the relay will be pulled in by it rather than stator voltage. That's because it seems easier to wire it up that way since you can use the LG/R wire both to pull the relay in as well as to provide power to the voltmeter. (Besides, it was easy to draw it that way, as you'll see. )

So, what I need you to do is to go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. Then drill down on the Wiring It tab, then the Ammeter Tab, then the 2G tab. There you'll find these two tabs:

• Monitoring At The Ignition Switch: This one isn't done as it doesn't have the "here's what your wiring looks like & where you should cut" schematic nor the "here's your harness and where you should cut" picture. But it has the final wiring schematic. And if you agree with the next tab I can finish this tab.

• Monitoring At The Battery: I believe this tab is done. And, I think it is what John/Machspeed is looking for. But, I need feedback from y'all.

And, disregard the tab that says Disregard This Tab. I need to delete it but that isn't the easiest thing to do so will wait to see that you agree with the approach of moving the stuff about the voltmeter into the Wiring It tab.

Be mindful, Gary that...

A) for those of us with idiot lights, that filament has to support both the exciter current and the relay pull-in....

B) you can't sink that wire through the relay, because the light will stay on.

C) if for some reason the alternator failed, the light would still be on because the relay is sinking it.

You know, I wonder sometimes....

[85lebaront2]

Be mindful, Gary that...

A) for those of us with idiot lights, that filament has to support both the exciter current and the relay pull-in....

B) you can't sink that wire through the relay, because the light will stay on.

C) if for some reason the alternator failed, the light would still be on because the relay is sinking it.

You know, I wonder sometimes....

Good point Jim, Darth, with the 1996 dash has both and idiot light with a battery symbol and a voltmeter. If you look at the diagram, there is a "fail safe" resistor in parallel with the light, so even with a burned out bulb the LG/R wire will still be powered with the key on.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good point Jim, Darth, with the 1996 dash has both and idiot light with a battery symbol and a voltmeter. If you look at the diagram, there is a "fail safe" resistor in parallel with the light, so even with a burned out bulb the LG/R wire will still be powered with the key on.

But is a 512 ohm resistor enough to pull in a relay and power the alternator?

If there is another ground path, will the light ever go out, as it does when the alternator starts charging and both sides of the filament come to the same potential? (Because they won't if there is a path to ground through the relay pull in)