kramttocs Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Ok guys, let's try this. I appreciate the input. 1G: With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays. Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away. With warning lights. Easy peasy. 2G: With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays. Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away. Agreed? My cunning plan is to get the ideas nailed down and then work it during the Super Bowl. Doubt I'll get it done, but I hope I'll have something we can tweak a week from now. I would want to emphasize the can in regards to c610 staying. The instructions will really be the same so I'd just say it can be on either side of the connector where the wires are cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 I would want to emphasize the can in regards to c610 staying. The instructions will really be the same so I'd just say it can be on either side of the connector where the wires are cut. Yes. Here are my thoughts on C610, and I plan to put them in the doc: KEEP: This approach lets you go back to either a 1G or a 2G. And, you get longer wires as a result. For instance, on the light green/red wire from the ignition switch you may not have to add any wire to connect it to the 3G's pigtail. Similarly, there may be enough of the large yellow wire after C610 to connect to your megafuse without splicing. REMOVE: This is the cleanest approach and you remove a potential failure point of an unneeded connector. If you have upgrades or suggestions to those thoughts, please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Yes. Here are my thoughts on C610, and I plan to put them in the doc: KEEP: This approach lets you go back to either a 1G or a 2G. And, you get longer wires as a result. For instance, on the light green/red wire from the ignition switch you may not have to add any wire to connect it to the 3G's pigtail. Similarly, there may be enough of the large yellow wire after C610 to connect to your megafuse without splicing. REMOVE: This is the cleanest approach and you remove a potential failure point of an unneeded connector. If you have upgrades or suggestions to those thoughts, please let me know. I like it. Lay it out and let the user decide what works for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 I like it. Lay it out and let the user decide what works for them. That's the plan, Stan. Thanks, Scott. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Ok guys, let's try this. I appreciate the input. 1G: With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays. Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away. With warning lights. Easy peasy. 2G: With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays. Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away. Agreed? My cunning plan is to get the ideas nailed down and then work it during the Super Bowl. Doubt I'll get it done, but I hope I'll have something we can tweak a week from now. Bump.....you working on this today, Gary  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 7, 2021 Author Share Posted February 7, 2021 Bump.....you working on this today, Gary Go look at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. So, yes. But Bible class starts in 8 minutes and then church, so I'll pick it up after lunch. Comments on what's there would be appreciated! Very VERY much a work in progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Bump.....you working on this today, Gary Go look at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. So, yes. But Bible class starts in 8 minutes and then church, so I'll pick it up after lunch. Comments on what's there would be appreciated! Very VERY much a work in progress. No, I was just re-reading some of the past posts on this thread and noted that you said you'd be messing with it today on Super Bowl Sunday. Thought I'd push your buttons a little. I'll check it out after Church this afternoon sometime. Thanks! Enjoy the Super Bowl. Pulling for the Chiefs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Bump.....you working on this today, Gary Go look at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion/3G Conversion - In Development. So, yes. But Bible class starts in 8 minutes and then church, so I'll pick it up after lunch. Comments on what's there would be appreciated! Very VERY much a work in progress. I'm still stuck on following this path. Maybe it's just the clickable drop-down thing again, but I don't see different wiring schemes when I click. I did go to the Bullnose upgrades tab too, and under vendors I don't see PA Performance. They have the harnii, alternators and even a 'plug'n play' dummy 1G regulator  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 I'm still stuck on following this path. Maybe it's just the clickable drop-down thing again, but I don't see different wiring schemes when I click. I did go to the Bullnose upgrades tab too, and under vendors I don't see PA Performance. They have the harnii, alternators and even a 'plug'n play' dummy 1G regulator I still cant find any information on how the dummy 1G regulator is supposed to work. It some how is supposed to reroute the wiring to make a 3G internal regulator plug and play but you still have to change the connectors on the OE harness that plugged into the 1G alternator. I looked at it as I am trying to find a way to make my change but have it plug and play over cutting and splicing the wiring. Big reason why I am looking for a OE harness either original or reproduction that I can cut apart and reroute the wires to make my connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 7, 2021 Author Share Posted February 7, 2021 I'm still stuck on following this path. Maybe it's just the clickable drop-down thing again, but I don't see different wiring schemes when I click. I did go to the Bullnose upgrades tab too, and under vendors I don't see PA Performance. They have the harnii, alternators and even a 'plug'n play' dummy 1G regulator You are way ahead of my game, Jim. Or maybe I'm way behind my game? I'm working right now on the 2G conversion 'cause that's what John is doing, and I thought that would be a really good test. But as I put things in there unless I hit PUBLISH you won't see them. So while there's more to see than you are seeing, we are FAR from having content. So the real question to y'all is does the new layout work? And disregard the 1996 3G page that's floating around at the bottom. Haven't decided whether to use it or delete it yet, so it is just hanging around. You should be able to go to Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrades/3G Upgrades - In Development and see the layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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