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Gary, I have the PNs and pictures. No voltage is given, but, the 460s used 7.5V direct from the alternator, but the 351 HO used 12V via a relay closed by the 7.5V lead from the stator. The only thing I can think of would be the warm up speed for the choke needing to be faster on the 351 (865 lbs of cast iron and 22 or more qts of coolant take a while).

Viewed from the inside, clockwise is cold direction counterclockwise is warm direction.

Bill - I found that choke in the MPC and it is right for carbs with Tag code E6HE-GA,GB E7PE-BA, E6HE-AC. And those are the codes for the 460 version of the 4180C. There's another choke for the 460, and it is E6PZ 9848-B CM-4513, which is right for Tag codes E6HE-AA,BA.

For the 351HO, which should be the 12v ones, the following chokes are correct:

  • B8A 9848-E CM-329

  • E3PZ 9848-E CM-4068

  • E4PZ 9848-F CM-4315

  • E4PZ 9848-G CM-4324

 

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Bill - I found that choke in the MPC and it is right for carbs with Tag code E6HE-GA,GB E7PE-BA, E6HE-AC. And those are the codes for the 460 version of the 4180C. There's another choke for the 460, and it is E6PZ 9848-B CM-4513, which is right for Tag codes E6HE-AA,BA.

For the 351HO, which should be the 12v ones, the following chokes are correct:

  • B8A 9848-E CM-329

  • E3PZ 9848-E CM-4068

  • E4PZ 9848-F CM-4315

  • E4PZ 9848-G CM-4324

Thank you for digging that information up, Gary!

(And I really appreciate you including the Motorcraft numbers.

It makes these choke heaters much easier to find. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Bill - I found that choke in the MPC and it is right for carbs with Tag code E6HE-GA,GB E7PE-BA, E6HE-AC. And those are the codes for the 460 version of the 4180C. There's another choke for the 460, and it is E6PZ 9848-B CM-4513, which is right for Tag codes E6HE-AA,BA.

For the 351HO, which should be the 12v ones, the following chokes are correct:

  • B8A 9848-E CM-329

  • E3PZ 9848-E CM-4068

  • E4PZ 9848-F CM-4315

  • E4PZ 9848-G CM-4324

I'm wanting to rethink the plan for the 3G page. I'd set out my thoughts earlier, but I'm not sure I agree with them now. So here's my current thinking, but I want y'all to push back if you disagree.

It seems to me that these are the variations that are possible, but I don't know if all of them are reasonable:

1G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

  • With warning lights. Easy peasy.

2G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

Again, I want to think through this and need your help. I'd like to have everything covered, but I don't want to make it too complex.

Thoughts, please?

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I'm wanting to rethink the plan for the 3G page. I'd set out my thoughts earlier, but I'm not sure I agree with them now. So here's my current thinking, but I want y'all to push back if you disagree.

It seems to me that these are the variations that are possible, but I don't know if all of them are reasonable:

1G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

  • With warning lights. Easy peasy.

2G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

Again, I want to think through this and need your help. I'd like to have everything covered, but I don't want to make it too complex.

Thoughts, please?

I assume there are a limited number of people who completely understand the purpose/concept of each of these options.

I am not one of you, LoL. Even after doing some electrical engineering research.

It does seem like your "reasonable" options are true as considered from the bench over here.

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I assume there are a limited number of people who completely understand the purpose/concept of each of these options.

I am not one of you, LoL. Even after doing some electrical engineering research.

It does seem like your "reasonable" options are true as considered from the bench over here.

Jim - I missed your post as I was posting. Welcome.

Ty - I expect to provide some explanation as to why we provide details on only a subset of the options. But I suspect there will be a lot of people that just want to make it happen and don't care about the details. So we need to keep it fairly simple.

And thanks for the input. It helps a lot as I understand all of this and need to hear from those that don't.

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Bill - I found that choke in the MPC and it is right for carbs with Tag code E6HE-GA,GB E7PE-BA, E6HE-AC. And those are the codes for the 460 version of the 4180C. There's another choke for the 460, and it is E6PZ 9848-B CM-4513, which is right for Tag codes E6HE-AA,BA.

For the 351HO, which should be the 12v ones, the following chokes are correct:

  • B8A 9848-E CM-329

  • E3PZ 9848-E CM-4068

  • E4PZ 9848-F CM-4315

  • E4PZ 9848-G CM-4324

You are digging way back for that B8A number, that would be a 1958 PN. I didn't realize Ford was using electric chokes that far back. I wonder if it was for one of the MEL applications? Those engines are interesting to say the least. I may have to look in the old parts books I have, one of which if it didn't get lost was specifically MEL parts.

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I'm wanting to rethink the plan for the 3G page. I'd set out my thoughts earlier, but I'm not sure I agree with them now. So here's my current thinking, but I want y'all to push back if you disagree.

It seems to me that these are the variations that are possible, but I don't know if all of them are reasonable:

1G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

  • With warning lights. Easy peasy.

2G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

Again, I want to think through this and need your help. I'd like to have everything covered, but I don't want to make it too complex.

Thoughts, please?

You're covering a lot more than any sane person would consider.

Why would anyone have a shunt if they had no ammeter?

Because they like resistance for no reason???

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I'm wanting to rethink the plan for the 3G page. I'd set out my thoughts earlier, but I'm not sure I agree with them now. So here's my current thinking, but I want y'all to push back if you disagree.

It seems to me that these are the variations that are possible, but I don't know if all of them are reasonable:

1G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

  • With warning lights. Easy peasy.

2G:

  • With shunt and with ammeter. Ammeter will only show discharge. Is this even something someone would do?

  • With shunt but with ammeter disconnected. Would someone do this? Why not leave it connected?

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This seems a reasonable approach.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This also seems reasonable.

Again, I want to think through this and need your help. I'd like to have everything covered, but I don't want to make it too complex.

Thoughts, please?

Gary, Jim is right....don't waste your time with that.

1G to 3G maybe give the last three options

2G to 3G give the last two options

Forget the rest!

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1G to 3G maybe give the last three options

2G to 3G give the last two options

Forget the rest!

:nabble_smiley_good:

Ok guys, let's try this. I appreciate the input.

1G:

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away.

  • With warning lights. Easy peasy.

2G:

  • With shunt and with voltmeter. This means C610 stays.

  • Without shunt but with voltmeter. This means C610 can go away.

Agreed? My cunning plan is to get the ideas nailed down and then work it during the Super Bowl. Doubt I'll get it done, but I hope I'll have something we can tweak a week from now.

 

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