Help On 3G Page

[Gary Lewis]

I'm still stuck on following this path.

Maybe it's just the clickable drop-down thing again, but I don't see different wiring schemes when I click.

I did go to the Bullnose upgrades tab too, and under vendors I don't see PA Performance.

They have the harnii, alternators and even a 'plug'n play' dummy 1G regulator

I still cant find any information on how the dummy 1G regulator is supposed to work. It some how is supposed to reroute the wiring to make a 3G internal regulator plug and play but you still have to change the connectors on the OE harness that plugged into the 1G alternator.

I looked at it as I am trying to find a way to make my change but have it plug and play over cutting and splicing the wiring. Big reason why I am looking for a OE harness either original or reproduction that I can cut apart and reroute the wires to make my connections.

Rusty - I don't know anything about a dummy 1G regulator, but I suspect it is just a wiring trick to allow you to use a 3G where a 1G was. And if it does what I think it does and puts the output of the alternator right back into the shunt to charge the battery you'd better not put a 130A 3G in there as the shunt won't take it.

Anyway, I'll let others address that as I'm trying to get something going on the new 3G page

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - I don't know anything about a dummy 1G regulator, but I suspect it is just a wiring trick to allow you to use a 3G where a 1G was. And if it does what I think it does and puts the output of the alternator right back into the shunt to charge the battery you'd better not put a 130A 3G in there as the shunt won't take it.

Anyway, I'll let others address that as I'm trying to get something going on the new 3G page

Thats basically what it is, PA Performance sells them states that they allow you to keep your ammeter functional. But mine is not functional, Ive been moving my truck with no belts on it and the ammeter doesnt swing to discharge not even the slightest so that is what prompted me to simply unplug the whole charge circuit and external regulator toss it in a box and put it up in storage with the 1G alternator and then source another harness that I can cut on to reroute the wires so my 3G will be plug and play with the two wires for the shunt for the ammeter are left disconnected.

Eventually I will be running a volt gauge, either sending the OE unit off to be converted or swapping to a vintage looking RTX cluster from Dakota Digital when they get off their rear and make it lol.

Im just curious about the whole wiring aspect of it cause my '58 Ford tractor was converted to an alternator and they used the regulator as a wiring point and installed an ammeter which I really want to get away from and go back to an idiot light so I can install the correct fuel gauge there. But for the life of me I cant figure out the wiring on why they did what they did. I know I am not a Einstein when it comes to wiring but I am also not a caveman and I just cant figure something like that out and normally I can figure quite a bit out via diagrams looking at the circuit.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm still stuck on following this path.

Maybe it's just the clickable drop-down thing again, but I don't see different wiring schemes when I click.

I did go to the Bullnose upgrades tab too, and under vendors I don't see PA Performance.

They have the harnii, alternators and even a 'plug'n play' dummy 1G regulator

I still cant find any information on how the dummy 1G regulator is supposed to work. It some how is supposed to reroute the wiring to make a 3G internal regulator plug and play but you still have to change the connectors on the OE harness that plugged into the 1G alternator.

I looked at it as I am trying to find a way to make my change but have it plug and play over cutting and splicing the wiring. Big reason why I am looking for a OE harness either original or reproduction that I can cut apart and reroute the wires to make my connections.

Rusty, their dummy regulator is just that, a regulator shell that plugs right into a 3G alternator.

It basically loops the sense wire to the onboard 3G regulator, and provides 'key on' power to the 'I' lead.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

You are way ahead of my game, Jim. Or maybe I'm way behind my game?

I'm working right now on the 2G conversion 'cause that's what John is doing, and I thought that would be a really good test. But as I put things in there unless I hit PUBLISH you won't see them. So while there's more to see than you are seeing, we are FAR from having content.

So the real question to y'all is does the new layout work? And disregard the 1996 3G page that's floating around at the bottom. Haven't decided whether to use it or delete it yet, so it is just hanging around.

You should be able to go to Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrades/3G Upgrades - In Development and see the layout.

Okay.

I was clicking around and not seeing the variants you'd mentioned.

I still think you ought to have the "stages" all in one image (jpeg or whatever) so there's not a bunch of clicking back and forth for a noob to try and compare them.

Also, that would make it easy for someone to hit 'print' and have the information in hand while out in their driveway or garage.

Having the *darn* screen time out, or the sun glaring makes for a VERY frustrating experience.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, their dummy regulator is just that, a regulator shell that plugs right into a 3G alternator.

It basically loops the sense wire to the onboard 3G regulator, and provides 'key on' power to the 'I' lead.

So it comes with a harness to redirect to the 3G alternator?

Hmm if so that might be a better option for me than trying to source another harness to cut up and modify.

[Gary Lewis]

Okay.

I was clicking around and not seeing the variants you'd mentioned.

I still think you ought to have the "stages" all in one image (jpeg or whatever) so there's not a bunch of clicking back and forth for a noob to try and compare them.

Also, that would make it easy for someone to hit 'print' and have the information in hand while out in their driveway or garage.

Having the *darn* screen time out, or the sun glaring makes for a VERY frustrating experience.

I think we are together if by "stages" you mean the following for each scenario:

• Here's a pic of your harness, what each of the wires are, and where you can cut them

• Here's the original schematic

• Here's what to cut on the schematic

• Here's the to-be schematic inc where you should splice what wires together.

And as an example of the harness pic, here's what I'm working on at present - at John's request:

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rusty, their dummy regulator is just that, a regulator shell that plugs right into a 3G alternator.

It basically loops the sense wire to the onboard 3G regulator, and provides 'key on' power to the 'I' lead.

So it comes with a harness to redirect to the 3G alternator?

Hmm if so that might be a better option for me than trying to source another harness to cut up and modify.

You put your regulator plug into it.

You plug it into your new 3G

Not difficult.

 

[Rusty_S85]

You put your regulator plug into it.

You plug it into your new 3G

Not difficult.

Thats what I was wondering all about, I really dont want to have it with a functional shunt through the ammeter, but wasnt sure cause when you look at the regulator from PA Performance that sells it its just a photo of the regulator that makes it looks like you plug your OE harness into it then you chop up your OE harness with the 1G alternator ends and connect your 3G alternator ends to it. Makes it seem like its more than just a simple plug and play setup which is what I ideally was wanting something that I can simply unplug my old circuits and plug in the new and be done.

[Machspeed]

I think we are together if by "stages" you mean the following for each scenario:

• Here's a pic of your harness, what each of the wires are, and where you can cut them

• Here's the original schematic

• Here's what to cut on the schematic

• Here's the to-be schematic inc where you should splice what wires together.

And as an example of the harness pic, here's what I'm working on at present - at John's request:

This should work out good for everyone with me being the test subject....LOL! If someone is going to inject confusion in a dummies 101 how to, that would be me

[Gary Lewis]

This should work out good for everyone with me being the test subject....LOL! If someone is going to inject confusion in a dummies 101 how to, that would be me

OK guys, time for me to quit as my head hurts. Not sure how much is the COVID shot and how much is due to beating it against the proverbial brick wall of Weebly.

But, please review what I've done, and remind me later that the Choosing An Alternator tab needs lots of work, especially re clocking.

Anyway, I think these things may be done:

• Wiring It tab and then the 3G Harness tab. Pretty much a carry over from the previous page, but may need some formatting.

• Wiring It/Circuit Protection: Ditto above, a carryover

• Wiring It/2G Wiring Changes/Keep Shunt: This is John's scenario and I think it is pretty close. However, it certainly isn't done with respect to the voltmeter. And here's my problem - there are two ways to solve this. One is to leave the R/O wire connected to the shunt @ S203 and then ground the Y/LG wire with a relay pulled in by the stator wire or the LG/R wire. This would serve all situations. Or, we could suggest that those that have the 351HO use the choke relay. So, do we have two scenarios? I'm inclined to say we forget the choke relay and recommend everyone use a relay to ground the voltmeter.

Thoughts, please!