Help On 3G Page

[Gary Lewis]

I need a bit of help on the 3G page: Documentation/Electrical/3G. Basically what I'm trying to do is understand how people want the information presented to them. To me the best option is for me to show a before and an after view. But I need your feedback.

Let's take Ty's example of a 1G with ammeter but w/o converting the ammeter to a voltmeter. And, he cut out the shunt. Here's a before and an after. Does this work?

[Tyler]

It certainly makes sense to me now that I've completed the install after making some mistakes. Not extremely complicated. However, perhaps leave the ammeter in the drawing and show the leads dead-ended?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I doubt the alternator output would be bk/or, but maybe (if someone could find that cable)

I also think all new wires need to be highlighted to stand out.

Like 37 from c610 to the fuselink (J) -which you failed to include-

*** edit, I keep forgetting about L & M.... carry on *******

And 38, on both sides of the Megafuse, but which shouldn't have any fuselink at the fender relay.

[Gary Lewis]

It certainly makes sense to me now that I've completed the install after making some mistakes. Not extremely complicated. However, perhaps leave the ammeter in the drawing and show the leads dead-ended?

The problem I have is that if I leave the ammeter in then do I leave the shunt in? And if the shunt is in then where does the long yellow line go?

How about an intermediate step then, one between the original and the final, showing what is deleted? Like this. (Note that I didn't cross out the W/Bk wire, which probably should be in the final version.)

[ArdWrknTrk]

The problem I have is that if I leave the ammeter in then do I leave the shunt in? And if the shunt is in then where does the long yellow line go?

How about an intermediate step then, one between the original and the final, showing what is deleted? Like this. (Note that I didn't cross out the W/Bk wire, which probably should be in the final version.)

Just unplug 610 in the diagram.

Take the lt gr/rd coming in from the right side of the page and put 'Sxxx' to the regulator plug.

Put a new wire (in place of shunt 38) from C610 (where it splits to the two fusible links) straight left to the hot lug of the starter relay.

[Gary Lewis]

I doubt the alternator output would be bk/or, but maybe (if someone could find that cable)

I also think all new wires need to be highlighted to stand out.

Like 37 from c610 to the fuselink (J) -which you failed to include-

*** edit, I keep forgetting about L & M.... carry on *******

And 38, on both sides of the Megafuse, but which shouldn't have any fuselink at the fender relay.

Jim - Good call on the wire color for the output wire. And, I like highlighting the new wires.

But on the fuse links, I'm lost. We aren't eliminating any of them as all of that part of the original wiring stays. Right?

[Gary Lewis]

Just unplug 610 in the diagram.

Take the lt gr/rd coming in from the right side of the page and put 'Sxxx' to the regulator plug.

Put a new wire (in place of 38) from C610 (where it splits to the two fusible links) straight left to the hot lug of the starter relay.

Ok, I understand taking 610 apart and running a new wire. But I don't understand the 'Sxxx' bit. Can you say that differently?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Good call on the wire color for the output wire. And, I like highlighting the new wires.

But on the fuse links, I'm lost. We aren't eliminating any of them as all of that part of the original wiring stays. Right?

You're eliminating J!

But you want L&M because they are on the cab side of C610.

I had originally said that the new wire (replacing shunt 38, and the rest of the rats nest from 610) needed to be protected by a fuselink.

Not thinking about L&M protecting the cab....

I made this mistake before, and should have remembered, instead of just focusing on the wires between alternator and fender relay.

I think the 'sense' wire should go to the output stud, as that's about as far as the pigtail will reach.

I understand the Painless kit has an extended wire.

But that allows people to screw up by putting it on the other side of the fuse (just like the 2G screwup)

[Gary Lewis]

You're eliminating J!

But you want L&M because they are on the cab side of C610.

I had originally said that the new wire (replacing shunt 38, and the rest of the rats nest from 610) needed to be protected by a fuselink.

Not thinking about L&M protecting the cab....

I made this mistake before, and should have remembered, instead of just focusing on the wires between alternator and fender relay.

I think the 'sense' wire should go to the output stud, as that's about as far as the pigtail will reach.

I understand the Painless kit has an extended wire.

But that allows people to screw up by putting it on the other side of the fuse (just like the 2G screwup)

Ok, I think we are together. Now, what about Sxxx?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just unplug 610 in the diagram.

Take the lt gr/rd coming in from the right side of the page and put 'Sxxx' to the regulator plug.

Put a new wire (in place of 38) from C610 (where it splits to the two fusible links) straight left to the hot lug of the starter relay.

Ok, I understand taking 610 apart and running a new wire. But I don't understand the 'Sxxx' bit. Can you say that differently?

904 comes in from the right [continued on of 18]

904 needs to come straight across and splice (Sxxx) into the regulator plug of the 3G.

I don't know what to call that splice, so I call it Splice xxx.