New member from Mill Creek WA

[cjstaci]

It's trivial to swap a cam and timing set.

A lot of these performance engines were solid lifter too....

JK has some incredible 'Boss Nine' engines out there right now. 💪

Good to see he took the ball and ran with it! 😉

First On Race Day!

JK and CnC are my heroes. The old engines are more popular now than ever before. You can do just about anything your pocket book will allow.

[Machspeed]

The Cleveland eng was a terror when it came out, in fact the 1971 Boss 351 recorded one of best quarter mile times of the era for a factory stock car. Ford knew how to make stuff run at the track. Unfortunately, when they put engines in street cars with huge ports and valves, like the boss 302, 351 4v, 429 cj and Boss 429, they didn't live up to expectations because too small of camshaft, retarded timing, etc, all in the name of emission controls and warranties. Put the right parts on any of these engines and they were proven winners. There's a 71 mustang on you tube belonging to a guy named Steve Ash. It's a twin turbo big block making over 3000 hp. There's two videos of it, one driving on the street and the other running a 7.3 quarter at close to 200mph.

It just goes to show, anything is possible.

Back in the day, I believe it was Hot Rod Magazine that said, no small block makes more HP per CI than the 351 Cleveland. I, regrettably today, pulled the original 351W out of the Gulfstream Mach and replaced it with a host of Cleveland engines. I did a little drag racing back then and if you were a Ford guy, the Cleveland was the way to go. Set up right, they were, as you say, a terror and would run with big blocks. In fact, at certain levels, if you had a Cleveland, you had to run with big blocks. The engines I ran were junk yard pulls and thin walled, which is one of weaknesses of the engine. I had several of my motors sleeved due to cracks in the cylinder walls after boring and racing. An Aussie block was the way to go back then but a poor kid like me couldn't afford it. It was all fun though. I still think the Cleveland is the most beautiful engine ever made, especially with the Boss style valve covers.

And you are right, one can make any engine run. At the Mid American Mustang/Shelby meet this past Summer I watched an old Ford F-100 Explorer run an low 12 sec qtr mile with a 400 Ford. This was a normally aspirated non nitrous equipped truck. Those Mustang GT's wanted no part of him....lol!

Let me take you back to funday's cj....here's a video I put together of a Boss 429 that impressed the socks off me. The white car belongs to a friend of mine. It has a built 429 in it but could not go toe to toe with the Boss 9.

 

 

[cjstaci]

The Cleveland eng was a terror when it came out, in fact the 1971 Boss 351 recorded one of best quarter mile times of the era for a factory stock car. Ford knew how to make stuff run at the track. Unfortunately, when they put engines in street cars with huge ports and valves, like the boss 302, 351 4v, 429 cj and Boss 429, they didn't live up to expectations because too small of camshaft, retarded timing, etc, all in the name of emission controls and warranties. Put the right parts on any of these engines and they were proven winners. There's a 71 mustang on you tube belonging to a guy named Steve Ash. It's a twin turbo big block making over 3000 hp. There's two videos of it, one driving on the street and the other running a 7.3 quarter at close to 200mph.

It just goes to show, anything is possible.

Back in the day, I believe it was Hot Rod Magazine that said, no small block makes more HP per CI than the 351 Cleveland. I, regrettably today, pulled the original 351W out of the Gulfstream Mach and replaced it with a host of Cleveland engines. I did a little drag racing back then and if you were a Ford guy, the Cleveland was the way to go. Set up right, they were, as you say, a terror and would run with big blocks. In fact, at certain levels, if you had a Cleveland, you had to run with big blocks. The engines I ran were junk yard pulls and thin walled, which is one of weaknesses of the engine. I had several of my motors sleeved due to cracks in the cylinder walls after boring and racing. An Aussie block was the way to go back then but a poor kid like me couldn't afford it. It was all fun though. I still think the Cleveland is the most beautiful engine ever made, especially with the Boss style valve covers.

And you are right, one can make any engine run. At the Mid American Mustang/Shelby meet this past Summer I watched an old Ford F-100 Explorer run an low 12 sec qtr mile with a 400 Ford. This was a normally aspirated non nitrous equipped truck. Those Mustang GT's wanted no part of him....lol!

Let me take you back to funday's cj....here's a video I put together of a Boss 429 that impressed the socks off me. The white car belongs to a friend of mine. It has a built 429 in it but could not go toe to toe with the Boss 9.

 

 

Great video. I saw video on YouTube, might of been the same boss, anyway raced against 67 mustang that was set to drag race. I think the boss red lighted but ran a 10 sec qtr.

To answer your question from earlier, my boss was raven black. It was KK1713. I sold it in 1987 for 20k.

I liked looking at your cars, a reminder of great these cars looked.

[Machspeed]

Great video. I saw video on YouTube, might of been the same boss, anyway raced against 67 mustang that was set to drag race. I think the boss red lighted but ran a 10 sec qtr.

To answer your question from earlier, my boss was raven black. It was KK1713. I sold it in 1987 for 20k.

I liked looking at your cars, a reminder of great these cars looked.

I was impressed with the car but also equally with the driver. I spent some time talking with him after that run. That car is a stick and he was feathering that throttle. I don't think he spun at all. Look at him hit that second gear though...wow! That car is a rocket and still retains the stock look. Love it!!!

They say that a stock CJ would outrun a stock Boss9 back then. They were de-tuned but boy was there a monster to awaken when tuned to performance.

[cjstaci]

I was impressed with the car but also equally with the driver. I spent some time talking with him after that run. That car is a stick and he was feathering that throttle. I don't think he spun at all. Look at him hit that second gear though...wow! That car is a rocket and still retains the stock look. Love it!!!

They say that a stock CJ would outrun a stock Boss9 back then. They were de-tuned but boy was there a monster to awaken when tuned to performance.

Here is a couple of Motor Trend articles from April 1970 and January 1971.t:auto;"/>

[cjstaci]

Here is a couple of Motor Trend articles from April 1970 and January 1971.t:auto;"/>

Sorry, they all didn't come through. these articles should be available online. anyway, the boss 429 was prepped by Foulger Ford, slicks, blueprinted, tuned but otherwise stock engine. 12.2 qtr mile. Not bad for under camed and under carbureted, and heavy valvetrain.

The 1971 Mach429CJ, C-6, 3.25 gear 3805lbs vs Boss 351, 4 spd, 3.91 gear, 3452lbs

14.6 @96.8 13.8 @ 104

Motor Trend January 1971

[cjstaci]

Sorry, they all didn't come through. these articles should be available online. anyway, the boss 429 was prepped by Foulger Ford, slicks, blueprinted, tuned but otherwise stock engine. 12.2 qtr mile. Not bad for under camed and under carbureted, and heavy valvetrain.

The 1971 Mach429CJ, C-6, 3.25 gear 3805lbs vs Boss 351, 4 spd, 3.91 gear, 3452lbs

14.6 @96.8 13.8 @ 104

Motor Trend January 1971

Hi all,

Been a while, life has been busy and still is. I purchased a new home in NM. I've been working 60-70 hrs a week and trying to get my truck ready for the drive. I am ready for a complete move yet, still 2yrs to retirement but I am taking some stuff down there next month.

I have a couple of questions,

1) My truck is an 81 F350 4x4,C-6 auto, it has round insulators for the transmission/transfer case mounts. Since they are not available does anyone know of a substitute?

2) the dual battery doesn't make sense to me. According to the wiring diagram, it looks like everything runs off of the main battery, although the aux battery will charge but it won't help much for starting since the wire to the starter relay looks like a 10ga or 12ga. Seems to me that the accessory items should be hooked up to the aux battery side of the relay so it doesn't drain the main battery. Any insight?

[FuzzFace2]

Hi all,

Been a while, life has been busy and still is. I purchased a new home in NM. I've been working 60-70 hrs a week and trying to get my truck ready for the drive. I am ready for a complete move yet, still 2yrs to retirement but I am taking some stuff down there next month.

I have a couple of questions,

1) My truck is an 81 F350 4x4,C-6 auto, it has round insulators for the transmission/transfer case mounts. Since they are not available does anyone know of a substitute?

2) the dual battery doesn't make sense to me. According to the wiring diagram, it looks like everything runs off of the main battery, although the aux battery will charge but it won't help much for starting since the wire to the starter relay looks like a 10ga or 12ga. Seems to me that the accessory items should be hooked up to the aux battery side of the relay so it doesn't drain the main battery. Any insight?

You may want to ask the questions out in the main area as not many come in here for a look see.

I know guys have dealt with both of these issues so I am sure you will get answers out there ewe.

Dave. ----

[Gary Lewis]

Hi all,

Been a while, life has been busy and still is. I purchased a new home in NM. I've been working 60-70 hrs a week and trying to get my truck ready for the drive. I am ready for a complete move yet, still 2yrs to retirement but I am taking some stuff down there next month.

I have a couple of questions,

1) My truck is an 81 F350 4x4,C-6 auto, it has round insulators for the transmission/transfer case mounts. Since they are not available does anyone know of a substitute?

2) the dual battery doesn't make sense to me. According to the wiring diagram, it looks like everything runs off of the main battery, although the aux battery will charge but it won't help much for starting since the wire to the starter relay looks like a 10ga or 12ga. Seems to me that the accessory items should be hooked up to the aux battery side of the relay so it doesn't drain the main battery. Any insight?

Dave is right, asking in the main section is a better option. But I'll respond here with what little I know.

And the answer on the tranny mount is "I don't know". I've not gone looking for those nor had to replace one. Sorry.

On the aux battery, I use the EVTM's schematic, below, rather than the wiring diagram as it is lots easier to follow. And as you can see, the only things that the aux battery powers, as wired from the factory, are the body marker lights, trailer, and trailer lights. This was intended people who pull a camping trailer or carry a camper, and the idea was that you could drain the aux battery w/o compromising your ability to start the truck.

But that's not to say that you can't rewire things. I have. I replaced the aux battery relay with a Cole Hersee Smart Isolator that lets me parallel the batteries from a switch in the cab. And I added #2 wiring from my power distribution box on the passenger's side to the aux battery relay so if I parallel the batteries the aux battery will participate in a big way in starting the truck. And my aux battery powers the 3000 watt inverter that's behind the seat as well as several 12v power ports that are back there.

So, what part of NM?

[cjstaci]

Dave is right, asking in the main section is a better option. But I'll respond here with what little I know.

And the answer on the tranny mount is "I don't know". I've not gone looking for those nor had to replace one. Sorry.

On the aux battery, I use the EVTM's schematic, below, rather than the wiring diagram as it is lots easier to follow. And as you can see, the only things that the aux battery powers, as wired from the factory, are the body marker lights, trailer, and trailer lights. This was intended people who pull a camping trailer or carry a camper, and the idea was that you could drain the aux battery w/o compromising your ability to start the truck.

But that's not to say that you can't rewire things. I have. I replaced the aux battery relay with a Cole Hersee Smart Isolator that lets me parallel the batteries from a switch in the cab. And I added #2 wiring from my power distribution box on the passenger's side to the aux battery relay so if I parallel the batteries the aux battery will participate in a big way in starting the truck. And my aux battery powers the 3000 watt inverter that's behind the seat as well as several 12v power ports that are back there.

So, what part of NM?

Hi Gary,

The wiring diagram you included makes sense. The wiring diagram I posted shows the trailer/camper wiring hooked up to the other side of the relay so the aux battery would do nothing. Anyway, I will figure it out. It's not a big deal for the trailer wiring, but I am adding a stereo amp that I want to run off the aux battery.

I want to get the truck ready to go so I don't have any problems along the way. I will be pulling a car trailer.

I will be in the Las Cruces area. The house has a 3 car garage and I am going to add at least 1200 sq ft.