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Ford Electrical Connectors....ARGHHH!!!


Machspeed

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Success! Before I posted I sprayed it with the stuff you clean electrical connectors with but it wouldn't budge. After my whining here and the application of a band aide, I went back out and sprayed the sucker with WD-40 and opened up the two clips with a couple of finish nails I use in my finish gun for trim. Dang thing easily pulled out. Concerned that the WD-40 would eat at the plastic, I quickly cleaned it with the electrical connector cleaner. Jim, think your're right about the PB Blaster. I read the can and it may have been a problem on that plastic. Didn't note any warning on the WD-40.

Glad you got it!

It's crazy how much pulling effort it takes on some of those molded connectors.

The third certainty in life is that the split second after they separate your elbow will find the hardest thing within a 20ft radius.

 

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Glad you got it!

It's crazy how much pulling effort it takes on some of those molded connectors.

The third certainty in life is that the split second after they separate your elbow will find the hardest thing within a 20ft radius.

Yep, you know what I'm talking about!

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Glad you got it!

It's crazy how much pulling effort it takes on some of those molded connectors.

The third certainty in life is that the split second after they separate your elbow will find the hardest thing within a 20ft radius.

Yep, you know what I'm talking about!

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

That should be amended to say "or knuckles"

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lol part of me wished I could source brand new Ford connectors like that to blend my auxiliary fusebox in with my OE wiring under the hood, would make it way easier to make add on circuits look OE with the OE terminals.

You could pull them from another truck. The rear crossmember would give you a decent selection with some useable length on some of them.

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You could pull them from another truck. The rear crossmember would give you a decent selection with some useable length on some of them.

Thats what I thought about but was really thinking more along the lines of ones that were not assembled to prevent having to crimp/solder the wires on. Sort of like how I did my connectors for my driving lights, I crimped the weather seal terminals to the wires I made to length.

Probably will end up doing that anyways though, could always do a metal crimp with shrink wrap then cover the wire up.

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You could pull them from another truck. The rear crossmember would give you a decent selection with some useable length on some of them.

Thats what I thought about but was really thinking more along the lines of ones that were not assembled to prevent having to crimp/solder the wires on. Sort of like how I did my connectors for my driving lights, I crimped the weather seal terminals to the wires I made to length.

Probably will end up doing that anyways though, could always do a metal crimp with shrink wrap then cover the wire up.

So the components that you want to wire in already have leads that aren't removable? I was thinking that if you can find a factory connector that has long enough wires on it you could remove whatever leads the component has and terminate the factory wire into it using whatever terminal type is needed.

If really going for the gold, you might be able to core out the factory connectors, find a way to hold the new terminals (and wires) in place, and then epoxy around them. Filling up the connector. I don't know, nor thought about before now, how a molded connector like these are made.

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So the components that you want to wire in already have leads that aren't removable? I was thinking that if you can find a factory connector that has long enough wires on it you could remove whatever leads the component has and terminate the factory wire into it using whatever terminal type is needed.

If really going for the gold, you might be able to core out the factory connectors, find a way to hold the new terminals (and wires) in place, and then epoxy around them. Filling up the connector. I don't know, nor thought about before now, how a molded connector like these are made.

Im not sure how they are made but they are obviously still out there in new productions cause you buy a new Cardone Distributor and it has a brand new OE connector on the end making it plug and play.

Thats why I assumed that you should be able to find the OE style connectors bare for assembly yourself, Id have no problem assembling the connector then injecting epoxy around the back end to seal them. Just would like for the connectors to look the same and not be a mismatch of 80s style connectors and modern day weatherproof connectors.

I have cored old terminals out before and attached new wires to them, I didnt core them persay as in drilling but used a small pick and gently opened the crimp up to pull the wire out. This allows new wire to be laid down in the terminal and recrimped. If the crimp doesnt seem to hold up that well then a drop of soldier would help with securing the connection.

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So the components that you want to wire in already have leads that aren't removable? I was thinking that if you can find a factory connector that has long enough wires on it you could remove whatever leads the component has and terminate the factory wire into it using whatever terminal type is needed.

If really going for the gold, you might be able to core out the factory connectors, find a way to hold the new terminals (and wires) in place, and then epoxy around them. Filling up the connector. I don't know, nor thought about before now, how a molded connector like these are made.

Im not sure how they are made but they are obviously still out there in new productions cause you buy a new Cardone Distributor and it has a brand new OE connector on the end making it plug and play.

Thats why I assumed that you should be able to find the OE style connectors bare for assembly yourself, Id have no problem assembling the connector then injecting epoxy around the back end to seal them. Just would like for the connectors to look the same and not be a mismatch of 80s style connectors and modern day weatherproof connectors.

I have cored old terminals out before and attached new wires to them, I didnt core them persay as in drilling but used a small pick and gently opened the crimp up to pull the wire out. This allows new wire to be laid down in the terminal and recrimped. If the crimp doesnt seem to hold up that well then a drop of soldier would help with securing the connection.

The distributor connector is the one thing hard to find for a DSII harness.

Obviously, Painless has a source and rebuild companies can get the Dizzy side.

Motorcraft does have a compatible connector, if you are willing to remove the 'keys' that interfere.

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