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Opinions on Frame Painting


ckuske

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Yes, this whole thread is to help me decide if my OCD can be overriden, and to what degree haha.

Well Por15 is great, I used their engine paint on my 292 on my '56 Fairlane, I didnt use the exhaust cross over restrictors to prevent the paint burning, I brushed the Por15 Ford Engine Red on and I am like 3 years later and the paint still looks fresh and not burning off.

Im sure the frame paint would be just as good. I have used Eastwood Chassis black before its nice but even their 2K chassis black can still be chipped.

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Yes, this whole thread is to help me decide if my OCD can be overriden, and to what degree haha.

Well Por15 is great, I used their engine paint on my 292 on my '56 Fairlane, I didnt use the exhaust cross over restrictors to prevent the paint burning, I brushed the Por15 Ford Engine Red on and I am like 3 years later and the paint still looks fresh and not burning off.

Im sure the frame paint would be just as good. I have used Eastwood Chassis black before its nice but even their 2K chassis black can still be chipped.

Thanks Scott and Rusty for your feedback also - I have a few things to get through, but hopefully I'll get to this in the next few months!

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

IMG_9254.jpg.a1a0577365f69a415eab3d74bd49c747.jpgIMG_9489.jpg.12fc2330c5a70a5bf0929af61c2140c6.jpg

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

Thanks Andre, you've given me something to think about!

Unfortunately (and I think I'm in the minority here), I live in a city, and in a house with a two car garage. I don't have a workshop with room to take the cab off etc and lay everything out. I am a bit jealous of lots of you guys that have all this space to work in!

I have about two feet on every side of the truck in which to work... taking the bed off is going to be difficult enough to find a spot for it. I suppose I could take the cab off and set it on the back part of the frame, but it's gonna be a challenge.

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9254.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9489.jpg

Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished. Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9254.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9489.jpg

Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished. Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.

If you are like me and don't do it now you will not go back and do it later.

Even more so that you want to drive it as you have not in 3 years.

I know it is hard not to just say he11 with it and throw it together to drive, mine was 4 years and I never drove it before I bought it.

Dave ----

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9254.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9489.jpg

Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished. Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.

Use Master Series Silver and either urethane black topcoat or Master Series AG111. A step up from POR which I would never use.

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Thanks Andre, you've given me something to think about!

Unfortunately (and I think I'm in the minority here), I live in a city, and in a house with a two car garage. I don't have a workshop with room to take the cab off etc and lay everything out. I am a bit jealous of lots of you guys that have all this space to work in!

I have about two feet on every side of the truck in which to work... taking the bed off is going to be difficult enough to find a spot for it. I suppose I could take the cab off and set it on the back part of the frame, but it's gonna be a challenge.

Chris, Maybe you have some height above the truck, here you could lift and hang off the cab and bed, no reason to set on the side.

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Use Master Series Silver and either urethane black topcoat or Master Series AG111. A step up from POR which I would never use.

Frankly, if it were me and I had a lot of open access to the frame, I'd spray it in epoxy and top coat. But, while I've heard about both Master Series (heard great things), and POR, I've never used either. If I'm not mistaken, I believe both can be put on with a brush to which would be advantageous to the OP.

I'm curious, why is Master Serious better than POR and what is the problem with POR?

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Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9254.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n85427/IMG_9489.jpg

Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished. Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.

If you are like me and don't do it now you will not go back and do it later.

Even more so that you want to drive it as you have not in 3 years.

I know it is hard not to just say he11 with it and throw it together to drive, mine was 4 years and I never drove it before I bought it.

Dave ----

Thats how I feel but my plan has always been to do the engine, transmission, rear axle first then do the paint and body work then the interior last. Now I am seriously considering doing a 4x4 swap if I can find a matched gear set for the Dana 44 IFS that I can also get in the Ford 9" as well this would be something that would have to be done later on and figured if I do set my eyes on it I guess I could always do a 4x4 transmission and transfer case and just leave it in 2wd till I get the 4wd front done, still for me I have to actually find the I beams as they are kind of hard to find I am seeing in stock form. Found one of the beams and a steering knuckle both NOS but wont buy till I am sure I will be doing this.

I also dont know if a 2wd C6 could be disassembled and converted into a 4wd C6, if it could be done by swapping the output shaft then maybe I could have my C6 built how I want it then have it converted at a later date and not lose my recalibrated governor and valve body. But I am still new to this 4wd conversion stuff so I am stumbling through it but it looks like its going to be quite pricy but at the same time I think it would look good to be done.

On mine I used to drive mine daily, I still would be if it wouldnt have been for the balancer breaking apart and spinning over the key on the crankshaft which I believe egg shaped the crank snout pinching the damper bolt. Still cant believe my impact with 100ft airhose set on the lowest power setting was able to twist off this bolt. Thats the only reason why I am doing this engine build on my truck, figure if the engine has to come out I might as well build the engine I always wanted for my truck. Then with a new engine that means the old worn out C6 that still pulls but has somewhere in the neighborhood of 18% slip it too will need to be rebuilt. Then if I am doing all this I might as well do my truetrac I always wanted to upgrade to and while I am in the axle I might as well swap the ring and pinion gear to offset my 31x10.50-15 tires.

Just became one thing after another and I am close to getting the engine done but I do know when it comes to the paint and body I am taking my bed off so the paint and body shop can paint the back of my cab as well as clearcoat it the same as the rest of the truck. I am so picky that is one thing that bothers me is seeing trucks at work with a overspray of clear on the back of the cab.

Another thing I am also looking at doing some time before I do paint and body work is replacing the worn out springs front and rear. I also wanted to add 2" taller coil springs in the front to level the truck out. But now if I go 4wd I will have to get different springs as I am pretty sure the 4x4 springs are going to be a different rating than the 2wd springs and not sure if it would apply to my 2wd truck. Brings a serious question to me if the stock 4wd springs would level the truck out with the 2wd leaf springs in the back or should I go 4wd springs all around.

Its one of those things where it wouldnt be hard for me to disassemble my truck after my drivetrain is finished to get to the frame and refinish it. But I do agree, once I get the truck finished I would find it hard to put the truck down and take it apart again. But at the moment I need to get the truck running again cause I am paying for registration just to keep the city off my rear for the truck not being registered. If I had my shop built I would just put the truck in the shop and let the registration lapse and do it all at one time.

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