Rusty_S85 Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Rusty, I don't think the 'narrower' 7" spacing is advantageous in any V-belt setup. With stock brackets the 7" won't allow you any adjustment, and you can't roll a belt on that's not slipping when installed. On Gary's EFI 460 or the 302/351 with a top mount alternator and a belt tensioner the 7" one is all that will fit. If you want a 130A 3G you need to cut some casting away for the 148mm body to fit. What I will say is that the 8.25" 130A 3G does fit almost any V-belt mounting, so that's the only one I would recommend in public. It probably wouldnt be advantageous to run the 7" spacing. I know the 1Gs I have been seeing for our trucks have the 7" spacing but case size I understand plays into it but I also know there are different brackets, the bracket I have the OE one on the 302s with the built in mount for the airpump has the alternator hanging down under the bracket. I would have to double check as its been a while since I looked at my truck but I do know my bracket bolts to the head and I dont believe the alternator would swing back far enough on the adjuster arm to contact the alternator mount itself. But still, I will be running the 130A 3G as it seems to be about my best choice for an upgrade. I also settled on the 8.25" spacing only recently have I begun to wonder on the 7" spacing since I recently have confirmation that the 1G units on our trucks were 7" spacing. Still I probably would go with the 8.25" spacing anyways as it would still fit properly and the 8.25" spacing seems to be a bit more common when it comes to the 130A units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Now I know its been stated that you cant get any real belt adjustment out of the 95A on our trucks.... Wrong, wrong, wrong.... There's no way to adjust the 148mm body because it is too wide when combined with a 3.5" radius pivot. No one ever said you can't use a 95A 3G with stock mounts. But few are going to 'upgrade' to a 3G and deliberately hobble their idle charging and headspace by using a 95A version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I probably would go with the 8.25" spacing anyways as it would still fit properly and the 8.25" spacing seems to be a bit more common when it comes to the 130A units. Not true at all. Any Taurus,Sable, Lincoln 3.0l V-6 has the 7" spacing needed for the EFI Windsor or later 7.5 polygroove bracket. I don't know what the sales numbers were between 3.0 & 3.8l, but I think there's no problem finding the 7". You just have to know which one to ask for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I probably would go with the 8.25" spacing anyways as it would still fit properly and the 8.25" spacing seems to be a bit more common when it comes to the 130A units. Not true at all. Any Taurus,Sable, Lincoln 3.0l V-6 has the 7" spacing needed for the EFI Windsor or later 7.5 polygroove bracket. I don't know what the sales numbers were between 3.0 & 3.8l, but I think there's no problem finding the 7". You just have to know which one to ask for. I didnt mean there was a problem finding the 7" 130A units I was saying the 8.25" 130A units seem to be more common. the one that you cant find is the 8.25" 95A unit as those dont exist anymore apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I probably would go with the 8.25" spacing anyways as it would still fit properly and the 8.25" spacing seems to be a bit more common when it comes to the 130A units. Not true at all. Any Taurus,Sable, Lincoln 3.0l V-6 has the 7" spacing needed for the EFI Windsor or later 7.5 polygroove bracket. I don't know what the sales numbers were between 3.0 & 3.8l, but I think there's no problem finding the 7". You just have to know which one to ask for. I didnt mean there was a problem finding the 7" 130A units I was saying the 8.25" 130A units seem to be more common. the one that you cant find is the 8.25" 95A unit as those dont exist anymore apparently. Probably came on a '95 4.9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Before I go hacking into my harness to make this conversion, can someone give me some clarity on the below pictured wire. It appears to be white with a black stripe but I'm not sure on that. John, while looking at harness plugs (per our convo) I realized that Gary had mentioned the 351HO use a relay to put power to the choke. You're showing C233 So, I think mystery solved! ETA: I want to mention to Gary that looking at the upgrades->3G->choke, page you really should point out that a OEM Motorcraft (single bullet, 7V) choke coil is completely interchangeable with a Holley 12V 2 spade choke coil. So not only can you swap your stock coil into an aftermarket Holley, but you can forget about any of that relay garbage mentioned under the 'choke' tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 John, while looking at harness plugs (per our convo) I realized that Gary had mentioned the 351HO use a relay to put power to the choke. You're showing C233 So, I think mystery solved! ETA: I want to mention to Gary that looking at the upgrades->3G->choke, page you really should point out that a OEM Motorcraft (single bullet, 7V) choke coil is completely interchangeable with a Holley 12V 2 spade choke coil. So not only can you swap your stock coil into an aftermarket Holley, but you can forget about any of that relay garbage mentioned under the 'choke' tab. Yes, after studying my harness again and matching it to the electrical schematic, I see that now. BTW, my Carb is an Edelbrock, which I think is also 12V. Regardless, I should be in the good, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Yes, after studying my harness again and matching it to the electrical schematic, I see that now. BTW, my Carb is an Edelbrock, which I think is also 12V. Regardless, I should be in the good, correct? Jim - Good point. I plan to do some website work Sunday watching a football game, so hope to include that info. John - Jein. The Edelbrock choke was designed to run on 12v but the choke/stator wire puts out more like 7v. And while at first blush it wouldn't seem that would work, it actually will. I did it on Rusty for a while. But it takes longer to come off so you can't set it as "hard". The best way is to use that 7v to pull in a relay to put full battery voltage to the choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 John, while looking at harness plugs (per our convo) I realized that Gary had mentioned the 351HO use a relay to put power to the choke. You're showing C233 So, I think mystery solved! ETA: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86076/7802701_orig.jpg I want to mention to Gary that looking at the upgrades->3G->choke, page you really should point out that a OEM Motorcraft (single bullet, 7V) choke coil is completely interchangeable with a Holley 12V 2 spade choke coil. So not only can you swap your stock coil into an aftermarket Holley, but you can forget about any of that relay garbage mentioned under the 'choke' tab. Why would you need the relay for the choke if you are coming off the stator on the 3G? When I was still looking at carb I was looking at using the stator to power my choke coil directly but then I decided on the aftermarket Summit carb that uses the Holley 12V choke coil and decided on a relay using the stator as a trigger, now with Holley EFI I just wont be using any of that but would be repurposing the planned choke relay as a ignition relay for the Holley EFI Key hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 John, while looking at harness plugs (per our convo) I realized that Gary had mentioned the 351HO use a relay to put power to the choke. You're showing C233 So, I think mystery solved! ETA: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n86076/7802701_orig.jpg I want to mention to Gary that looking at the upgrades->3G->choke, page you really should point out that a OEM Motorcraft (single bullet, 7V) choke coil is completely interchangeable with a Holley 12V 2 spade choke coil. So not only can you swap your stock coil into an aftermarket Holley, but you can forget about any of that relay garbage mentioned under the 'choke' tab. Why would you need the relay for the choke if you are coming off the stator on the 3G? When I was still looking at carb I was looking at using the stator to power my choke coil directly but then I decided on the aftermarket Summit carb that uses the Holley 12V choke coil and decided on a relay using the stator as a trigger, now with Holley EFI I just wont be using any of that but would be repurposing the planned choke relay as a ignition relay for the Holley EFI Key hot. The choke relay is already there Rusty. Why not use it to provide 12V thru fuselink AX? I'm pretty sure the Edelbrock choke is wound the opposite way as Motorcraft. But I suppose you could pull the coil out and flip it over if the diameter is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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