Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 I see they also have the F786 for $29.95 Interesting. I'd missed that one. Here's what they say about the F795: Features: 100% New Very low saturation voltage Digital dash compatible Used On: Ford (1994-2003), Mercury (1994-1999) Replaces: Ford F4RU-10316-AA, F4ZU-10316-AA, F4ZU-10316-AC, F4ZZ-10316-A, GR814 And here's what they say about the F786: Features: 100% New Lamp activated Used On: Ford (1995-2000), Ford - Europe (1993-2002), Mercury (1995-2001) Replaces: Ford F5RU-10316-BA, F5RZ-10316-A, F5RZ-10316-B, GR818, GR819 So, what's the saturation voltage? I understand what saturation voltage for a transistor is, but how does it apply here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Interesting. I'd missed that one. Here's what they say about the F795: Features: 100% New Very low saturation voltage Digital dash compatible Used On: Ford (1994-2003), Mercury (1994-1999) Replaces: Ford F4RU-10316-AA, F4ZU-10316-AA, F4ZU-10316-AC, F4ZZ-10316-A, GR814 And here's what they say about the F786: Features: 100% New Lamp activated Used On: Ford (1995-2000), Ford - Europe (1993-2002), Mercury (1995-2001) Replaces: Ford F5RU-10316-BA, F5RZ-10316-A, F5RZ-10316-B, GR818, GR819 So, what's the saturation voltage? I understand what saturation voltage for a transistor is, but how does it apply here? I think it is the transistor that grounds the regulator causing it to output power. Where they mention a difference between indicator light and electronic dash I'm going to make an assumption and say the 12V lamp, or the resistor across the socket is the "I" source for 786, But with an electronic dash the regulator doesn't see battery voltage and probably needs to be triggered by 5.0V or less. Just like your Arduino has limits to control voltages and currents, but it can output enough to switch a transistor (on a shield) that will switch those voltages and or currents. Bill will probably chime in with details of digital dashboards, because he knows them so well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 I think it is the transistor that grounds the regulator causing it to output power. Where they mention a difference between indicator light and electronic dash I'm going to make an assumption and say the 12V lamp, or the resistor across the socket is the "I" source for 786, But with an electronic dash the regulator doesn't see battery voltage and probably needs to be triggered by 5.0V or less. Just like your Arduino has limits to control voltages and currents, but it can output enough to switch a transistor (on a shield) that will switch those voltages and or currents. Bill will probably chime in with details of digital dashboards, because he knows them so well. NOS Motorcraft for under $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183534338615 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 NOS Motorcraft for under $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183534338615 Good find. GR818, so the F786 is the equivalent. And $19.93 with free shipping is better than $29.95 + shipping. And I agree with your assessments of the differences. But I'm not sure I understand why saturation voltage is important. If the set point is 14.6 then..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Good find. GR818, so the F786 is the equivalent. And $19.93 with free shipping is better than $29.95 + shipping. And I agree with your assessments of the differences. But I'm not sure I understand why saturation voltage is important. If the set point is 14.6 then..... GR819 is another number as well. This is the one I bought on ebay $18.95 Motorcraft one with a number of F5RU-10316-BA on the regulator itself. Lists the following part numbers F5RU-10316-BA, F5RZ-10316-A, F5RZ-10316-B, GR818, and GR819. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-REGULATOR-1995-00-FORD-MERCURY-LESTER-7774-7775-7789-7792-F786/291875990238?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Crowley Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Good find. GR818, so the F786 is the equivalent. And $19.93 with free shipping is better than $29.95 + shipping. And I agree with your assessments of the differences. But I'm not sure I understand why saturation voltage is important. If the set point is 14.6 then..... GR819 is another number as well. This is the one I bought on ebay $18.95 Motorcraft one with a number of F5RU-10316-BA on the regulator itself. Lists the following part numbers F5RU-10316-BA, F5RZ-10316-A, F5RZ-10316-B, GR818, and GR819. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-FORD-REGULATOR-1995-00-FORD-MERCURY-LESTER-7774-7775-7789-7792-F786/291875990238?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hey, thank you everybody, you all were a great help to me. I bought my F-250HD 4x4 diesel new in 84, used it to haul my slide on camper to the beach on week ends and in 95 I took it off the road to rebuild it. I was just going to repair the rust but because of a head gasket problem ended up having the motor done. Well after buying new doors, fenders, hood, and a replacement bed that my next door neighbors tree crushed and a ton of nos parts from eBay, which I bought some twice and I am still buying more, I had to let it sit do to lack of funds and a serious back injury, bad back surgery, and several other surgeries. But now I hope to get going on it and have learned a great deal from this site. Thanks again. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hey, thank you everybody, you all were a great help to me. I bought my F-250HD 4x4 diesel new in 84, used it to haul my slide on camper to the beach on week ends and in 95 I took it off the road to rebuild it. I was just going to repair the rust but because of a head gasket problem ended up having the motor done. Well after buying new doors, fenders, hood, and a replacement bed that my next door neighbors tree crushed and a ton of nos parts from eBay, which I bought some twice and I am still buying more, I had to let it sit do to lack of funds and a serious back injury, bad back surgery, and several other surgeries. But now I hope to get going on it and have learned a great deal from this site. Thanks again. Dan Sorry to hear of your troubles, Dan. But glad you are now seemingly able to work on it, and hope you can get it back on the road soon. It is great to see an original owner with one of these trucks. We don't have many of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hey, thank you everybody, you all were a great help to me. I bought my F-250HD 4x4 diesel new in 84, used it to haul my slide on camper to the beach on week ends and in 95 I took it off the road to rebuild it. I was just going to repair the rust but because of a head gasket problem ended up having the motor done. Well after buying new doors, fenders, hood, and a replacement bed that my next door neighbors tree crushed and a ton of nos parts from eBay, which I bought some twice and I am still buying more, I had to let it sit do to lack of funds and a serious back injury, bad back surgery, and several other surgeries. But now I hope to get going on it and have learned a great deal from this site. Thanks again. Dan I'm glad you're finding the help you need here, Dan! And I'll second Gary in saying it's great to see original owners here keeping their trucks on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I have spent a lot of time reading about the conversion and have a 130amp alternator and harness in my Amazon cart at this very moment. However, I just need a warm fuzzy that replacing my 1G dual belt little guy with a 130 will be enough to add a decent LED light bar up front and 2 LED lights on my hitch at the rear. I haven't bought the extra lights yet. My sniper system and fuel pump are zapping too much current for when I have headlights and heater blower on. Just gonna add lights in the near future and will also need to support standard trailer lights. Thanks guys. Honestly I think your stock 1G would be enough for a LED light bar and two LED lights on your hitch. I am using my 1G stock alternator on my truck which I will upgrade to a 3G but I have composite ECE headlights installed with silverstar Ultra H4 halogen bulbs, a pair of Apollo 6" 100w H3 halogen driving lights and have no problem powering that setup of lighting. I doubt a LED light bar you are looking at and two LED hitch lights would be pulling more amps than my light arrangement. I also doubt it would pull more than my planned light arrangement which is why I want the 3G where I will be adding another 400w worth of lighting on a bed bar. But with a 3G 130A is well over enough. I keep struggling with the upgrade myself as I really want the 95A unit which would still be well over enough for me but would allow me to have a properly sized megafuse for my charging circuit, but the ear spacing isnt enough to properly fit and make fitting the OE alternator belt troubling. I will just have to go with the 130A I think and plan on running a 100A fuse cause there is no way a single V belt is going to burn up a 3G 130A alternator, belt would slip and get thrown off or melt in two before a properly sized 130A 3G mega fuse would pop. I promised John some pics of the 8.25" 130A alternator installed in my truck. What I can't show is how tight it was with the stock bracket.. And just for kicks, here are some pics of how I mounted the Megafuse and relay box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I promised John some pics of the 8.25" 130A alternator installed in my truck. What I can't show is how tight it was with the stock bracket.. And just for kicks, here are some pics of how I mounted the Megafuse and relay box. Thanks Jim, very kind of you! Can you tell me about that Megafuse and relay box? Interesting, was thinking you had a two belt set up on that alternator.....makes me feel better now in what I'm doing. I stuck the alternator in that I got from AZ a couple of days ago just to confirm that I could make it fit. It goes back tomorrow and the DB unit that you recommended comes today supposedly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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