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3G advice


Tyler

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Gary,

It is because the larger body of the 130A 3G -when combined with- the shorter 'arms' of a 7"C-C puts the alternator too 'deep in the pocket' to give you any appreciable adjustment.

Imagine trying to pass a fat man in a narrow hallway, or something like that.

As for not selling an alternator with LRC regulator. I don't know what to say....

The one I bought recently had one installed.

I had preemptively bought a new LRC regulator, intending to swap it out, but instead it was relegated to the parts box (until you asked for it)

I linked the one I'd purchased noting the fact of the odd packing and that it came with one.

Jim - All I know is what I'm told. But I didn't think what I was told made sense. :nabble_anim_confused:

So I searched and found that you posted about your alternator here, and it is an AFD0028 from DB Electric. If it has LRC then it is the one I'd go with. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Jim - All I know is what I'm told. But I didn't think what I was told made sense. :nabble_anim_confused:

So I searched and found that you posted about your alternator here, and it is an AFD0028 from DB Electric. If it has LRC then it is the one I'd go with. :nabble_smiley_good:

Perhaps im not making any sense?

Gary,

I sent you the alternator test sheet when I sent the starter test sheet.

You'll see it has a graph like a daisy.

On that page it outlines that the Load Response Control as having 2 second response and six second ramp.

IIRC, it even has a chart over time showing that.

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Perhaps im not making any sense?

Gary,

I sent you the alternator test sheet when I sent the starter test sheet.

You'll see it has a graph like a daisy.

On that page it outlines that the Load Response Control as having 2 second response and six second ramp.

IIRC, it even has a chart over time showing that.

I canceled my Amazon order for a different model but it shipped anyway so I will return it when it gets here. Today I'll order the model Gary linked above.

Much appreciated everyone!

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Perhaps im not making any sense?

Gary,

I sent you the alternator test sheet when I sent the starter test sheet.

You'll see it has a graph like a daisy.

On that page it outlines that the Load Response Control as having 2 second response and six second ramp.

IIRC, it even has a chart over time showing that.

Jim - We have the test results, but not the chart, on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators. I've now added links to the DB page where they are selling the AFD0028 as well as to that page with the test results to the 3G page so I don't forget again. :nabble_smiley_blush:

As for the test results, here is a snippet where I circled the 4.5 second soft start delay and the 2 second load response control:

DB_Electrical_Alternator_Test_Results_-_Soft_Start.thumb.jpg.1151c41f31ba36c4ba8fe8d4f169600a.jpg

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Jim - We have the test results, but not the chart, on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators. I've now added links to the DB page where they are selling the AFD0028 as well as to that page with the test results to the 3G page so I don't forget again. :nabble_smiley_blush:

As for the test results, here is a snippet where I circled the 4.5 second soft start delay and the 2 second load response control:

That's really odd. :nabble_anim_confused:

Either the sheet is false, or the regulator that came in the alternator is.

Because 1+2=/=3 in this case.

I wondered why these have come in J&N packaging recently.

 

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Ok, I got the mail and am responding:

No, your 2G is going to be 7" C-C, but the body diameter is likely 130 mm (like the 95A version of the 3G.

The 130A 3G is 148 mm and with the short 'arms' won't leave you with much tension adjustment.

It is the 3.8 V6 engines found in early '90's Taurus/Sable/Lincoln that will have the 8.25" mounting.

If you want a 7" 130A look at the 3.0 models

I don't know much about the 95A versions, as found in the mid-'90s trucks.

I wanted the better cooling and the bigger diode board found in the 130A version, more than any need for that much output.

I will say if you're considering an electric cooling fan the 130A should be installed.

Having the truck charging at idle was my bigger concern, given that in winter I often have my lights and blower running.

Jim, how'd you get so dang smart and versed over such a wide range of stuff! You were exactly right, 7" C-C.

I'm left a bit confused regarding your comment regarding the short arms and tensioning. Are you saying I'm limited to the 95 amp 3G alternator with my current V Belt configuration? If so, I'm fine with that, this is more about fire hazard than having all that amperage. Gonna pull one from a salvage yard with harness and all. Can you advise/clarify on best vehicle to pull from?

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Ok, I got the mail and am responding:

No, your 2G is going to be 7" C-C, but the body diameter is likely 130 mm (like the 95A version of the 3G.

The 130A 3G is 148 mm and with the short 'arms' won't leave you with much tension adjustment.

It is the 3.8 V6 engines found in early '90's Taurus/Sable/Lincoln that will have the 8.25" mounting.

If you want a 7" 130A look at the 3.0 models

I don't know much about the 95A versions, as found in the mid-'90s trucks.

I wanted the better cooling and the bigger diode board found in the 130A version, more than any need for that much output.

I will say if you're considering an electric cooling fan the 130A should be installed.

Having the truck charging at idle was my bigger concern, given that in winter I often have my lights and blower running.

Jim, how'd you get so dang smart and versed over such a wide range of stuff! You were exactly right, 7" C-C.

I'm left a bit confused regarding your comment regarding the short arms and tensioning. Are you saying I'm limited to the 95 amp 3G alternator with my current V Belt configuration? If so, I'm fine with that, this is more about fire hazard than having all that amperage. Gonna pull one from a salvage yard with harness and all. Can you advise/clarify on best vehicle to pull from?

I'm not smart, I'm autistic.

You know that kid who knows everything about apatosaurs? yeah, that's me.

Except I'm intersected in electrons.

7" C-C means 3 1/2" radius to the mounting and pivot bolts.

8 1/4" mounting means 4 1/8" from the center to the center of the mounting bolt.

The 95A 3G (and likely the 2G) is around 5 1/4" diameter, where the 130A is almost 5 7/8" (148mm)

So, if you took a 5 1/4" circle and marked a 3.5" radius and a 4.125" radius

Then you did the same with a 5 7/8" circle at both radii you could visualize how many degrees each circle would fill from the vantage of the pivot bolt.

And, by moving the alternator body away from the block it gains even more room to swing.

My mind doesn't see things the same way as neurotypicals.

Im sorry if it is difficult for me to make a good analogy.

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I'm not smart, I'm autistic.

You know that kid who knows everything about apatosaurs? yeah, that's me.

Except I'm intersected in electrons.

7" C-C means 3 1/2" radius to the mounting and pivot bolts.

8 1/4" mounting means 4 1/8" from the center to the center of the mounting bolt.

The 95A 3G (and likely the 2G) is around 5 1/4" diameter, where the 130A is almost 5 7/8" (148mm)

So, if you took a 5 1/4" circle and marked a 3.5" radius and a 4.125" radius

Then you did the same with a 5 7/8" circle at both radii you could visualize how many degrees each circle would fill from the vantage of the pivot bolt.

And, by moving the alternator body away from the block it gains even more room to swing.

My mind doesn't see things the same way as neurotypicals.

Im sorry if it is difficult for me to make a good analogy.

Jim, what would be your recommendation for an alternator for my truck....LOL!

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Jim, what would be your recommendation for an alternator for my truck....LOL!

The alternator I've used fits well.

It also has the smaller 8x1.25 adjuster hole, so you can just run a 3/8-16 tap through. (No need to helicoil the larger 10mm hole down to work)

You'll need to take a little of the offset out of your curved adjuster bracket.

I think the boss on the 3G is a 1/4" thicker.

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I have spent a lot of time reading about the conversion and have a 130amp alternator and harness in my Amazon cart at this very moment. However, I just need a warm fuzzy that replacing my 1G dual belt little guy with a 130 will be enough to add a decent LED light bar up front and 2 LED lights on my hitch at the rear. I haven't bought the extra lights yet.

My sniper system and fuel pump are zapping too much current for when I have headlights and heater blower on. Just gonna add lights in the near future and will also need to support standard trailer lights.

Thanks guys.

Honestly I think your stock 1G would be enough for a LED light bar and two LED lights on your hitch.

I am using my 1G stock alternator on my truck which I will upgrade to a 3G but I have composite ECE headlights installed with silverstar Ultra H4 halogen bulbs, a pair of Apollo 6" 100w H3 halogen driving lights and have no problem powering that setup of lighting. I doubt a LED light bar you are looking at and two LED hitch lights would be pulling more amps than my light arrangement. I also doubt it would pull more than my planned light arrangement which is why I want the 3G where I will be adding another 400w worth of lighting on a bed bar.

But with a 3G 130A is well over enough. I keep struggling with the upgrade myself as I really want the 95A unit which would still be well over enough for me but would allow me to have a properly sized megafuse for my charging circuit, but the ear spacing isnt enough to properly fit and make fitting the OE alternator belt troubling. I will just have to go with the 130A I think and plan on running a 100A fuse cause there is no way a single V belt is going to burn up a 3G 130A alternator, belt would slip and get thrown off or melt in two before a properly sized 130A 3G mega fuse would pop.

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