Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Great ideas! Well done! Looks great and is going to put out more at idle that the original alternator ever could at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Well done! Looks great and is going to put out more at idle that the original alternator ever could at full tilt. I went for a long drive today. When I came home I checked the alternator and it was pretty hot on the back side near the exhaust manifold. I have nothing to compare the temp to. I could barely keep my hand on the wire plug and case. This means it was probably not much over 140F if any. Have there been any issues with 3G upgrades and overheating the wires? I didn't see any when researching. It was a pretty cool day today so I worry about those 100 degree summer days. Might look into a heat wrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I went for a long drive today. When I came home I checked the alternator and it was pretty hot on the back side near the exhaust manifold. I have nothing to compare the temp to. I could barely keep my hand on the wire plug and case. This means it was probably not much over 140F if any. Have there been any issues with 3G upgrades and overheating the wires? I didn't see any when researching. It was a pretty cool day today so I worry about those 100 degree summer days. Might look into a heat wrap. The back is hot because the windings and rectifier board are shedding heat and the fans inside the case are expelling it your the back. I'm not sure about proximity to the exhaust of a 300. What wires? The harness doesn't carry substantial current. Some foil faced sleeve couldn't hurt. The cable should be rated for the fuse and the length. i.e. 175A can use 3' of #2 wire, but not 10' of #2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 The back is hot because the windings and rectifier board are shedding heat and the fans inside the case are expelling it your the back. I'm not sure about proximity to the exhaust of a 300. What wires? The harness doesn't carry substantial current. Some foil faced sleeve couldn't hurt. The cable should be rated for the fuse and the length. i.e. 175A can use 3' of #2 wire, but not 10' of #2 Jim - The back is close to the exhaust manifold, as is the wiring. Ty - Can you get a shield in between? A simple piece of aluminum half the distance would make a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Jim - The back is close to the exhaust manifold, as is the wiring. Ty - Can you get a shield in between? A simple piece of aluminum half the distance would make a huge difference. Oops - Ty, I tagged you in a new thread I've started about changes to the 3G page. Can you take a look here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-On-3G-Page-td86569.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 The back is hot because the windings and rectifier board are shedding heat and the fans inside the case are expelling it your the back. I'm not sure about proximity to the exhaust of a 300. What wires? The harness doesn't carry substantial current. Some foil faced sleeve couldn't hurt. The cable should be rated for the fuse and the length. i.e. 175A can use 3' of #2 wire, but not 10' of #2 The regulator and it's plug of wires get pretty hot. I'll just keep an eye on it. Might wrap the manifold if I can or fab a heat shield as Gary suggesed. The back of the alternator is only about 1.5" from the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Jim - The back is close to the exhaust manifold, as is the wiring. Ty - Can you get a shield in between? A simple piece of aluminum half the distance would make a huge difference. Right Gary. But it's not any closer than every other 300 with EFI manifolds on the planet. I'm not about to bicker I'm tired of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 Right Gary. But it's not any closer than every other 300 with EFI manifolds on the planet. I'm not about to bicker I'm tired of it I found an old thread referencing a Motorcraft regulator with a LRC from Ebay. I have one in my cart. Anything I need to consider before I buy and install into my DB alternator? Not fond of the squeal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 I found an old thread referencing a Motorcraft regulator with a LRC from Ebay. I have one in my cart. Anything I need to consider before I buy and install into my DB alternator? Not fond of the squeal... I have a 2-second LRC, if I remember correctly, and it solved the squeal problem. I say go for it. And it is a very easy installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 I found an old thread referencing a Motorcraft regulator with a LRC from Ebay. I have one in my cart. Anything I need to consider before I buy and install into my DB alternator? Not fond of the squeal... Just be aware that the brushes are pinned back so you can get it installed, and that the brushes in your 'old' regulator may hang up or fly free as you remove it. Remove the shipping pins only after it is secured in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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